So, I got the new Mcleod clutch and flywheel put on. I just picked the truck up. It has a major vibration when I rev the engine in neutral, as well as a vibration in gear. Vibration goes way when driving in neutral. Also, when parked and the clutch pedal is up in neutral, I hear a constant chatter sound. That sound goes away when I push the pedal to the floor.

Here is the flywheel I bought. 1965 FORD McLeod Racing 463215 McLeod Steel Flywheels | Summit Racing
Here is the clutch I bought.McLeod Racing 75112 McLeod StreetPro Clutch Kits | Summit Racing

Does my setup require a flywheel weight? The mechanic did not put a weight on. The only weight the kit came with says it's for a Chevy with 383-400. The flywheel instructions are attached to this post.

Any idea what could be going on? The mechanic also said the bearing included in the clutch kit was wrong, so he got the right one at the parts store. Thanks a million.

Also, the new clutch is really grabby. The one I replaced was a 3 finger style, and it had a lot of play with the engagement where I could ease into gear. This new diaphragm one catches hard and wants to stall if I don't do it right. I'm sure I'll get used to it, but I hope this thing loosens up. This is my first new clutch in any vehicle in my life, so this is all new to me. I know not to get on it for the first 1,200 to 1,500 actuations during the break in period. Would the 3 finger have been any different? I didn't know what I had, so I replaced it with the diaphragm one based on research saying they're smoother.

 

The constant chatter when in neutral and no pressure on the clutch pedal sounds like a noisy throw-out bearing. Would not expect that with a new bearing but anything is possible. Did your mechanic test drive it after finishing and notice these issues?

As far as being grabby it *might* loosen up some with use but I wouldn't expect a lot. Sounds like it's not the typical OEM replacement clutch as mentioned on the web site.
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These McLeod kits provide slightly heavier pedal effort with increased holding capacity, making them excellent factory replacement performance clutches. Order the size to match your vehicle specifications.

Additional features and benefits include:

* Bolt to stock flywheels
* Handle up to 400 hp
* Organic disc facing for smooth engagement with excellent release qualities

 

Hey TA455HO,
​​​​​​He definitely didn't drive it. I noticed the vibration as soon as I moved it from the side of his garage. I revved it in neutral and it started shaking like I had loose motor mounts, which I do not have anymore after we fixed that awhile ago.

I added on to my original post, not sure if you saw it - he said the bearing in the kit didn't fit, so he got one at the parts store that fit.
​​​​​
The pedal effort is right about the same as before. It's just really grabby. Not liking that. It says more holding power than stock, yes I read all that, but I expected the same engagement as before. It said the stock replacement style was only good to 300 lb ft of torque, which I'm probably past as it is, so I figured if I add on more power, I'll definitely need a stronger clutch. If a stock 3 finger would feel like the old one, I'd definitely go back to it, but how would I add on power and have good engagement?

 

Did you see the old flywheel and verify if it had any weights? Is it possible someone snuck a 428 crank into your 352?

I'm guessing the grabbiness is a feature of the pressure plate you got. It may be better suited for a hydraulic clutch. There are pressure plates for FE's that are smooth for the oem clutch linkage with plenty of holding power..

 

This is the simple thing I didn't even think about - check the old flywheel. Will do that tomorrow. I doubt the crank has been changed, but I can ask the previous owner who had the motor apart.

I'm going to talk to the guy who I bought it from to see if he remembers what clutch he put in it. He wasn't a big spender so it was probably a stock replacement from the parts store or Summit. It held fine, but it pushed the pedal up if I revved it hard in gear with the pedal on the floor. Is that what holding power is?

Are there any you can recommend?

This is pushing me closer to putting in a modern overdrive 6 speed. But that's big $.

I also have an email in to McLeod asking about the problems, we'll see what they have to say.

And if you're wondering what kind of mechanic didn't drive the car after working on it - I can introduce you to a bunch of them. Seems to be a popular thing around here. This particular guy has done a ton of work for me in the past, and he's been good with everything. No bonehead mistakes.

 

What was wrong with the old flywheel? If nothing a new flywheel likely won't gain you much holding power. That's the clutch disc and pressure plate's work to do. I don't like the sound of the universal flywheel but might be OK. McLeod is a good name. Your likely early 3.03 transmission is also only good to about 350 Ft-lbs of torque.

It's quite common for mechanics to take a vehicle for a test drive after completing repairs or maintenance. This helps ensure that everything is working correctly and that any issues have been resolved. Test drives can help detect problems that might not be apparent when the vehicle is stationary, such as noises, vibrations, or handling issues.
It's an important part of the diagnostic and repair process to ensure the vehicle is safe and performing as expected.

It sounds like he worked on the truck right where you picked it up from - the side of his garage - if not they either rolled it there or must have at least started it. I think if my mechanic didn't start and take my vehicle for a test drive, I'd be at least having a conversation with my mechanic or looking for another one that is not one of the bunches you could introduce us to. Sounds like they all went to the same training given by someone who wasn't a mechanic.

That's not meant to be harsh. The conversation could go like this.

You: How did the test drive go?

Mechanic: I didn't even try to start it. And I never take any vehicles I work on for a test drive.

You: OK, that's fine. What do I do when I start it and there are bad vibrations and noises before I leave your business? Do I
A. Drive away and hope for the best - maybe the vibrations and noises will subside?
B. Let you know and leave the vehicle with you?
C. Get on a random forum on the internet and ask people what they recommend?

Mechanic: ???

Generally speaking, the change from a 3 finger to a diaphragm style pressure plate would make for slightly less pedal effort all other things being equal. Not sure you'd sit up and say 'oh wow what a huge difference'. Add back in the heavier feel of the StreetPro rating and it might be similar or a bit more pedal effort. The grabby feel might be also that everything is brand new so the release and engagement points are different in relation to the clutch pedal height. If it were only the grabbiness, I'd say break it in a while longer and see if you get used to it. With the vibrations - and noise from possibly the bearing - it sounds like it should come back apart and put right.

 

What TA455HO said. Plus keep in mind if you take a mechanic a pile of parts and cut him out of the small amount, he makes suppling parts he is not going to spend his time seeing if you bought the correct parts, he is just going to put them in.
I would say it all has to come back out because any vibration is too much, bad things can start happening to your crankshaft.

 

Here is the reply from Mcleod. As far as I thought, I cannot have a FT in my F100. Could that be wrong?

Billy Mieczkowski <Billy.Mieczkowski@mcleodracing.com>

to me, Info

12:54 PM (53 minutes ago)

Craig, Thank You for your support of McLeod Racing.There were two versions of the 352 produced. The FE version and the FT version.

The FE was for passenger vehicles and the FT was for truck applications.

There is speculation that the one engine was external balance factory and the other was internal balanced from the factory.

I can not hammer down which one was internal vs. external and which production years.

Do you have an old flywheel or flexplate that you could snap a photo of the back side of and we could determine if you need to add the weight to your 463215?

Billy Mieczkowski

Technical Sales

McLeod Racing

 

I understand your point. But, this guy doesn't make money on parts. He's not a mechanic with a state inspection license. He works out of a giant, very well-equipped garage with a lift that he built next to his house. He's done the majority of work on my truck from day 1 with parts I brought in. He was a referral from a neighbor who has a 66 or 67 427 4 speed corvette that appraised for north of $150,000 and he's crazy about who he lets touch it.

 

Definitely check your flywheel, on one of my 66's it had an auto, when I rebuilt the 300 I went to the trans shop that redid the trans and bought TC and flexplate from them, they gave me flexplate for a 302, WITH counter weights, baaad vibbbbrraattttion, from just the short time I ran it it had my front main seal leaking.

And X2 on what TA said, the shop I use tests drives, when I do work, I test drive, som ting wong with the place you use and mech's not test driving...

 

I asked him, and he said the old flywheel is warped and blue from heating up. It drove fine for me.

He worked on it inside on his lift. He's in his late 50s, he wasn't going to do all this outside laying on top of limestone.

I clearly understand he should have test-driven it but at the end of the day that has no bearing on this issue needing fixed and it really didn't cost me any time because I would have went out and talked to him about it anyway before asking you guys.

 

Here is my old flywheel.
​​​​​​Just heard from the previous owner. He changed the crank and never told me. I told him I was getting a new flywheel and clutch and he didn't mention anything. Waiting to hear from him what crank he put in, and if he used the stock flywheel.

Here is the previous owner's response.

"I'll see if I can dig up any paperwork but the engine was not built up to bring it up to use 390 or 428 parts. So it should have been standard 352 crank."

He also put in a new flywheel, pictured below.

 

Here is McLeods most recent response. Is this something that should have been done before the initial installation?

"The flywheel picture you sent indicates a 0 or neutral flywheel. The previous owner looks to indicate that the engine stayed 0 or neutral balanced. If the 463215 was used and the balance weight that is included in the box was NOT used and bolted to the flywheel then the assembly is still 0 or neutral balanced. Then the next step would be to remove the clutch and flywheel assembly from the engine and take it to a machine shop and have it spun up on a balance machine And balanced as an assembly. We call out 5 grams or less. If you cant find a local shop to do this service for you then we do offer the service if you are willing to ship it to us. The service is $150.00 plus the cost of shipping. I will need your complete info."
​​​​​​
He also said "Has the big over center spring under the dash been removed?It needs to be removed when going from a 3 finger to a diaphragm pressure plate."
He says that will make it less grabby.

​​​​​​Shouldn't this stuff be balanced from the factory? I'm ready to send it all back and get a different brand.

 

I spent the last hour researching message boards for posts on removing this "big center spring under the dash" with conflicting opinions. Some say it made their diaphragm clutch way smoother. Others had problems.

This mess has left a bad taste in my mouth. But I'm learning a heck of a lot. I'm also really annoyed I can't drive the truck today. It's going to be around 80 in Pittsburgh the next 2 days. I'm stuck pushing my 13 second Lincoln around.

If, indeed, I only need to get the flywheel and clutch balanced to fix this, I think I'm going to return this Mcleod stuff and get cheaper stuff. I'm pretty sure the previous owner had a summit 3 finger clutch in there. It's only $146. I know how it will feel. I'll see if I can get a cheaper flywheel as well. I can save the fancy parts for a more modern transmission in the future. I'd actually much rather have a 6 speed to get access to the third gear that I'm missing now with the 3 speed, as well as the 5th gear to lower local highway RPM and 6th gear for turnpike cruising.

The question here is this - is the balance solution recommended by Mcleod definitely the answer? How would I know? If not, do I need to somehow identify the crankshaft? PO said he put a 352 crank in there, and the Mcleod tech said, based on seeing the picture of my old flywheel, that I don't need any weights on the flywheel - it just needs to be balanced. Which I do not understand. The tech would not answer my question regarding if the flywheel should have been balanced from the factory. The clutch instructions do say that they recommend balancing the assembly. I didn't open the box to read the instructions, I just found them online. But it doesn't say "you need to balance this or you will have problems" either.

Whatever I end up putting in, I will balance it first.

 

I really doubt balancing is necessary for any clutch kit and/or flywheel combo. And I wouldn't pay to have the Mcleod clutch balanced since it's grabby. You can get good clutch kits that are plenty strong and are not grabby without modifying the clutch linkage.

I'd first check for anything silly and free to check...for example: spark plug wires and firing order (if the wires were off recently) might make the engine vibrate.

Then, the McCleod needs to be inspected. Either it's defective or a bolt broke/came loose and causing vibration. I like to replace those old flywheel and pressure plate bolts with an Arp kit. Silly question and perhaps insulting to the mechanic...was the flywheel and pressure plate cleaned with brake cleaner before installing? Shipping oil might make it grab.

Years ago I used a stock clutch kit from Napa...it worked fine for a stock 390 pulling a 10k lb camper. Now I have a Ram 98769 and a steel flywheel. It engages smooth and holds plenty of torque...over 580 lb*ft pulling our camper while accelerating up 6% grades. (I now have a stroker FE).