Running scared: 4R100 issues
#1
Running scared: 4R100 issues
My 2001 F250 has 302,000 miles. Within the last 1,000 miles I've noticed random harsh upshifts between 2nd and 3rd gear. These seem to be increasing in frequency and harshness. All other functions are completely normal.
When the transmission is cold, they are only slightly noticeable during gentle acceleration, sometimes with some hesitation. Occaisionally the harshness is not present at all duing moderate acceleration. It are most noticeable at high RPM/WOT when everything is warmed up.
I have verified that the shifter and shift cable are operating correctly and there has been no apparent damage to the switch at the transmission, including inspecting the connector for corrosion and I've checked the two #30 torx-head screws above the steering column which were tight.
The fluid is full and so clean it is hard to see on the dipstick. It does not smell burned. I installed an aftermarket inline filter years ago, and have used Baldwin B252 filters.exclusively since then. I changed the filter and it appears there are some metal fragments in the pan I drained the filter I removed into. I will "test" these particles with a magnet today... I have not removed the pan from the transmission, but I suspect a failed or failing clutch disk or disks, but don't know if there is another possible problem or problems, nor do I know if a failed disc can be diagnosed without tearing down the transmission.
Am I on the right track here? Would a "pressure test" reveal anything that will help with a final diagnosis, or does the fact that all other functions are normal eliminate a possible pump issue?
Any input will be appreciated.
When the transmission is cold, they are only slightly noticeable during gentle acceleration, sometimes with some hesitation. Occaisionally the harshness is not present at all duing moderate acceleration. It are most noticeable at high RPM/WOT when everything is warmed up.
I have verified that the shifter and shift cable are operating correctly and there has been no apparent damage to the switch at the transmission, including inspecting the connector for corrosion and I've checked the two #30 torx-head screws above the steering column which were tight.
The fluid is full and so clean it is hard to see on the dipstick. It does not smell burned. I installed an aftermarket inline filter years ago, and have used Baldwin B252 filters.exclusively since then. I changed the filter and it appears there are some metal fragments in the pan I drained the filter I removed into. I will "test" these particles with a magnet today... I have not removed the pan from the transmission, but I suspect a failed or failing clutch disk or disks, but don't know if there is another possible problem or problems, nor do I know if a failed disc can be diagnosed without tearing down the transmission.
Am I on the right track here? Would a "pressure test" reveal anything that will help with a final diagnosis, or does the fact that all other functions are normal eliminate a possible pump issue?
Any input will be appreciated.
#3
Read the codes. They may point out a problem.
To read them I recommend Forscan. You can download it free at www.forscan.org. You don't need to buy a license to read codes.
To read them I recommend Forscan. You can download it free at www.forscan.org. You don't need to buy a license to read codes.
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#4
I have had no indication of a code, neither a CEL dash light or the flashing OD light on the shifter. My code reader did not show any codes, including while driving, and experienced the harsh 2-3 upshifts. It indicated nothing. My code reader has read a P0720 code (output speed sensor circuit failure) in the past, so I'm pretty sure it should read other transmission codes, but I am not 100% sure of that. I have access to a more sophisticated code reader and will try it as well, when get my hands on it in a day or two.
I ran a magnet through the fluid and the "sparkly stuff" I saw in the fluid stayed in the pan. The filter is inline with the cooler. There could be ferrous metal in the transmission pan, I haven't dropped it yet.
My driving style is pretty gentle on the transmission 99% of the time, but I do pull a 7k lb. travel trailer in the mountains and the transmission gets a work out then.
I ran a magnet through the fluid and the "sparkly stuff" I saw in the fluid stayed in the pan. The filter is inline with the cooler. There could be ferrous metal in the transmission pan, I haven't dropped it yet.
My driving style is pretty gentle on the transmission 99% of the time, but I do pull a 7k lb. travel trailer in the mountains and the transmission gets a work out then.
#5
I would suggest downloading Forscan as Mark K advised. I'm no expert, but most generic code reader are capable of only reading generic codes. Manufacture codes exist and are only available through certain channels. My code reader is a tablet style machine that requires regular updates that you pay for. Worth it, even at my amateur status.
Probably not related, but past GM transmissions would begin to fail like this. A failing clutch pack or drum band would get weak and the transmission would compensate for the slip by increasing the fluid pressure. The failing set would feel normal, but the "good" clutches would shift very harsh. Again, it may not be related at all.
Probably not related, but past GM transmissions would begin to fail like this. A failing clutch pack or drum band would get weak and the transmission would compensate for the slip by increasing the fluid pressure. The failing set would feel normal, but the "good" clutches would shift very harsh. Again, it may not be related at all.
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