83' 6.9 IDI w starting issues, had clicking issue when switched to on and hard starts but started well with ether. New glow plug relay solenoid, new glowplugs, new injectors. Currently using a fuse jack on the radio fuse but still having some weird issues and no starting. Took a video of the voltage on the battery negative and right post which the wire is connected to, and the voltage changes as follows: 0v to 11.8v when turning key from off to on, then staying at 11.8v when pressing the momentary switch and while holding for 3s voltage drops to .15v , then drops slightly to .12v after releasing the momentary switch after 5s. Am I wasting my time with the fuse jack and should just be wiring directly from the positive terminal with a fuse? Not sure what else could be causing the issue.

Fuse tap from radio fuse

New glow plug relay

Momentary switch between fuse tap and glow plug relay

 

Not sure about using a fuse tap because I did not need that for my manual GP setup. I followed this article exactly and 8 years later no problems, https://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm

 

I was originally using this video as a reference which was for a 6.9 relay, the right post is wired to the momentary switch which is then connected to 12v from the fuse panel
The link you sent is for the 7.3 controller, in that setup the switch is grounded to the frame, did you follow this for a 6.9 or 7.3 controller?

 

7.3 controller yes but the solenoid should be the same. Yes I grounded my momentary switch to the frame. I also ran my own glow plug wires because the factory harness was in a state of doo-do and not worth fixing. The only reason my controller is still on the truck is because the solenoid mounts to it. The fuse tap might be lame but I've never used one. I suppose your trigger wire could be just about anything with key-on power. For an unrelated issue I tapped into the chime module to trigger a relay--not sure if an 83 had a chime module.

Also, you might try crimping some female spade terminals so you get a better connection at your switch.

 

Just updated the connections to female spade and used the positive connection from the same location in this video at 23:46 to the right of the yellow fuse So I know my power location is correct but I'm still not getting any wait to start light, when I check the voltage of the terminal it is now correctly going to 12v. No start after holding for 5s and trying to start

 

Does your voltmeter twitch when you activate your momentary switch? It should move when current is applied to the plugs.

 

Yes, it seems the switch is working correctly. I am also having a slow cranking issue and though I fixed the starter connection earlier it has still seen better days.. going to grab a replacement and replace some of the messed up battery terminals to eliminate any other issues. Using two new batteries w/ 12.8 voltage when off

 

Yeah my starter seems to be slowing down despite batteries at 12.9 and oversized cables. There's always something else to fix.

 

what brand glow plugs did you put in it?
these engines only use motorcraft plugs, all others are garbage and will burn out after one start most of the time.
when bypassing the glow plug controller, i run12 volts to the relay and switch the ground wire to activate the relay.

 

Interesting, I have not seen that setup, was that for a 6.9 controller? Mine is 0v, 12v when holding momentary switch on the right post now that its working. I got new ZD-1-A motorcraft plugs per the recommendations on this forum for that exact reason so they should be good.

 

No controller. Relay only. I switch the ground not the power

 

I see, is there any particular reason it would be better to do it that way?

 

So if the wire from cab to relay shorts out, there is less chance of the wire causing a fire and burning the truck up

 

Starter and starter solenoid came in, but realized that it had a 3 post starter solenoid beforehand. New solenoid didn't work until I used a black wire which was originally on the mounting plate of the 3 post starter to the back plate of the new starter solenoid. Jumped it w screwdriver on a single battery at 11.8v and sounds like this.. didn't put new starter motor in yet but not sure if what I am hearing is just a result of bad starter + lowish battery (which I am recharging in the meantime). Any thoughts on what the issue could be or if I messed something up with the wiring?

Video of jumping starter solenoid:

 

that is either low batteries, or bad starter. or both.