91 F250 w/ 7.3

First of all. Only had the truck about 5mo and doesn't get used a whole lot but every time I go to fill it up I'm forced to BARELY insert the pump nozzle and put just enough pressure on the handle that I can easily count the .01 numbers as they go by. It does this for both front and rear tanks. Try to put nozzle even part way in and before long I get foam and it makes pump click off a full ONE - TWO CENTS at a time. Part of the fender has the beat up signs of a tire that had thrown its tread which could do a number to the tank necks. My fill necks are completely open...no flapper. Images I've seen for replacements look like there should be an internal hose that reaches into the tank and the neck body should vent? If so I'm missing it in both. Internal necks directly into the tank?

Second. My tank selector is suspect. When I got the truck it would run on either tank but I'm now forced to rely on just the front. My rear is still full. I go to the rear and I the FUEL FILTER light after a few seconds and I can feel the truck starting to hiccup until I switch it back. I know this means the pump is drawing vacuum when this happens meaning either the pickup in the tank or the selector valve took a crap. NOW...where can I get a PROPER replacement? EVERY place I look...any of the chain parts stores...even RA's numerous listings...all have the 4-ports pointing to 1 side with 2 the other...not the 2-side 2-straight 2-other-side. I'm sure at least 1 of the 1-star reviewers on those is on here...don't blame you. AUTOPARTSWAREHOUSE actually shows the right one but for some reason it won't let me add it. Direct from a FORD dealership maybe? I COULD do 2 separate valves....mechanical or electric but those would be a PITA. The former I'd have to attach to the tunnel next to the shift then run alot of extra line.

Third. My fuel gauge is suffering a lobotomy. When switched the front tank is stuck at just over E while the rear tank goes up to just under 5/8. Bad gauge in cluster or tank senders?

Actually have 4 things...last being the GP controller. Replaced the relay to no avail and with temps starting to drop in the mornings it can tank some cranking to get started. Since the controllers aren't exactly cheap this will be remedied by a keyed-power to push-button that will then engage the solenoid. Lead to the WTS will be be connected for use as a visual aid during the ONE-ONE THOUSAND count. I do this anyway on my VW DD diesel after its own GP circuit became problematic.

 

Second: The fuel selector valve last I checked was like 600 bucks (CDN) through Ford, for really no apparent reason. I don't even know if you can get a direct replacement unit. I went with the standard brand FV5(?) I think it was called. I had to buy the connector FV5C and wire it in to the factory harness. Also, you might have to get rid of your quick connect fuel lines, as this one (and probly most aftermarket selectors) have just barbed ends for sliding hose onto. You might have pieces of the showerhead/pickup tube being sucked up when you select the rear tank, or a pinched fuel line maybe?

Fourth: If you replaced the relay and everything is connected properly, it could be the controller that's shot. I too am going to do the glow plug switch mod, as my Motorcraft controller is acting up and its only two years old. Make sure its to a momentary switch/ button and glow times of ten seconds or less, just to be on the safe side. I'll post a link to the DieselHub website explaining how to troubleshoot and then wire in a switch to the GROUND circuit.

7.3L IDI Manual Glow Plug Controller/Switch Wiring

 

first off just change the Selector valve...... the tank select valve also selects between the senders and if it is sticking then that will cause your Gauge issues
you may have to deal with Aftermarket unless you just want to get Raped by the dealer on a replacement and you may need to replace the electrical connector too if you go aftermarket.

IF you are handy you can take the old valve apart and repair it.

as far a slow filling just consider you are getting your money's worth while you take residence at the pump and **** others off

there is a few mods that can be done just search them... also make sure your fill hoses are just not collapsed

 

LMFAO and I thought my Stealership was NuckingFutz for asking $469.00 USD

it's really sad the price Gouging that Ford does

 

BTW my 1993 f250 selector valve is aftermarket and it uses the OEM quick connectors .. I bought it from Burton Automotive in Harlingen Texas back in like 2007... I'm sure things have changed..... I was bitching about 83 bux back then LMAO

 

Had to fill...well TRIED anyway...the tank today. Paid to put in about 40$ worth @ 3.05//gal...took me about 10min to FINALLY get to 20$ before calling it quits. Previous fill ups weren't this much a hassle. I have a 62 IH Scout where filling the saddle tanks is a pain but only because the necks are so damn short. At least with it if I **** the handle sideways to follow the turn of the necks it's less headache.
While waiting on replies I found OEM-looking valves from other places on Amazon and even eBay. Still about 70$ though.
Also ran into the FORD pricing during searches. EFF that!
One thing that might be handy would be a diagram of how the FTSV wiring works to make the appropriate jumps to get the gauge to behave while using manual valves.

 

you think that is a PIA go to the Big Boy Pumps and BTW a manual select valve will cost you more than an aftermarket electric....

search some of my posts I have posted the schematics of these valves

 

My fill necks are good. Likely replaced. But from what RA shows for filler necks on this thing...it should look this end on. Mine is wide open. The tube going down into the tank WOULD direct everything into the tank instead of just pouring into the top and frothing things up.

 

Any manual select valves would be 3-way brass ones IE similar to the ones OLD fords use or similar. Though after getting the rest of the fittings I'd be still be looking at around 30$ just to get 1 set up.

 

here I searched it for you .... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rear-tank.html

 

they make manual 6 port valves I use em in Marine installs all the time ... on our diesels you have to have a return also.

 

I have modified the electric to Manual use before too

 

All in 1 so it also covers the return? Going single ofc would need 2...1 valve for supply switching then another for return...would have to make sure IT changed too or else that "empty" tank wouldn't be empty after awhile.
Seeing those wiring diagrams reminds me how much I hate wiring diagrams.

 

Bingo like I said manual will cost as much if not more than an Aftermarket Pollock Valve then you still have to select the tank senders with the manual valve starts to get complicated don't it

 

get an aftermarket with the connector some hose and some Ideal hose clamps and just be done with it... but Pay attention to what lines you connect to what else you will be posting "I just replaced my FSV and when I select the rear tank the engine dies" seen it many times