Yup, but as stated before, My littl brother works at orileys, so as long as I dont fry a FICM, I'll be ok. The two batts cost more than the alt,ernator, but if they are needed, then I'll get them. Only time will tell, but I have a sneaky suspision the alternator was the original problem. I'm thinking too weak to charge, but strong enough to keep the rest of the truck operating and fooled into thinking everything was ok. Yea an alternator can run with a bad diode, but it all depends on which diode in the rectifier is bad as well as which of the three coils its attached too!

BTW, The new alt has a lifetime warranty, so if it dies again, its an easy replacement. All I worry about is the FICM

 

I'm not telling you to get batteries - never did, so not sure whats up w/ the "as stated before" tone.
All I said was to watch the system for awhile - because of the FICM (as I stated twice before).
I'd sure be interested in what your plan is to protect your FICM.

BTW, I have seen batteries pass a load test, but when each cell was checked w/ a hydrometer, a cell or two were weak or bad. The truck components draw more amps than a load tester. Anyway, good luck to you, glad you solved the problem.

 

I'm having the battery light issue with my daughter's escape now. Goes on and off until it runs for a little while then stays off for the day. This is at least the 3rd alternator on the truck and the system tests good. No bad wires that I can find either.

 

When bismic and gearloose1 give the exact same advice... and conclude exact the same.... on an electrical / electronics related issue no less...

The probability of it being seriously wrong is... low.

 

If you can't find a bad wire, here are your choices.

A) throw in a new pigtail regardless.

B) rig up my magic alternator test gear (a lot of work)

C) buy a real alternator

See this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-problems.html

 

Hey no tone intended (thats why I hate text communication)

 

The lifetime of your patience with putting in replacement alternators, frying batteries, FICMs, and other things is?

 

Thank you!

 

No prob. I welcome any feedback. Wife says I use some weird phrases, and sometimes they get me in trouble!

 

All it's had are motorcraft alternators. It's not wiring it's something controlling the alternator. It's too consistent to be wiring.

 

What is the electrical load?

Is it materially different from factory?

Is there heavy usage of electricity heavy accessories?

e.g. seat heaters, high power audio, etc.?


Marginal electrical wiring can also fry an alternator.

I would test the resistance of every wire from the alternator for a start.

 

Gearloose1 what brand of alternator did you get? 146a would be good, in the market for a new one.
Greg