Is there such a thing as spray dielectric grease?

i used to fluid film my trucks every year


rhen when I fluid filmed my 2019, all kinds of electrical gremlins appeared which did not go away until I pressure washed all electrical connectors.


so my guess is the newer smart electrical systems don’t like fluid film.


so my theory is to spray all electrical connectors with a dielectric type spray.. after that sets…then fluid film everything minus any direct connection for spray.


btw, black fluid film makes surface rust pretty again.

 

^^^ And it would be easy to advertise. "Ultimate rust protection" and so. Everyone who will google about hot dip would spend money for it.

 

I've switched to the Wool-Wax product now, which is the same company as Fluid Film just a thicker formula which in my experience seems to stay on better in the "high traffic" areas. I pay the extra $10 per gallon to get the stuff dyed black as it does make the frame and underside look great.

As an aside, the GM frames seem to be the worst for rust. Ford and RAM e-coats tend to stay cleaner longer.

 

Do you joke? Google "dielectric grease spray" and in top is 2 of them. However important information about electrical problems because of ff if is true. Worth googling.
https://www.fluid-film.com/trucking-applications/

 

Look like Toyota, Nissan and such use Noxudol 300 and 700 for theirs rust proofing. Did copy paste at some other forum comment from other guy.
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denwood
Mar 17, 2021
I've posted a fair bit about corrosion management and long term tests and have tested quite a few different solutions. Rust Check, Krown and Fluid Film will wash off in an hour or less of heavy rain/driving so I no longer use them on vehicles.

The best I've found for longevity is Mike Sander's Grease, but you need to apply at 100-120 C (over 225 F), which is a PITA. My favourite now is Noxudol 300 and 700, which is a solvent free wax type application (never hardens) which actually contains a number of chemicals that react with rust. It's what Toyota, Izuzu and Mitsubishi have used in their frame recalls for about 10 years. It's about $20 a liter, and only needs annual touch ups. The 300 product is black, and designed for exposed chassis. The 700 is clear, for inner panels and non-exposed areas. Zero smell, stays on, and is one of only two products I've found that actively manages rust with added chemicals. It's easy to get in the US directly from Noxudol USA, not so easy here in Canada.

Noxudol 300/700 sets up in a day or two and does not drip after that. Noxudol "won" this three year long term test by Classics Monthly: https://www.auson.se/wp-content/uplo...monthly_uk.pdf

From one of my posts on Noxudol:
A bit of research on the product yields this: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2011120646A1?cl=en

According to one embodiment, a composition containing sulfonic acids, petroleum, overbased calcium salts in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight; fatty acids, tall-oil, polymers with isophthalic acid, pentaerythritol and tall-oil in an amount of 10 to 20% by weight; paraffin waxes and hydrocarbon waxes in an amount of less than 10%; base oil, distillates (petroleum), solvent- refined heavy paraffinic materials in an amount of 40 to 60% by weight, each percentage being based on the total weight of the wax component, may be used. This material is available as the commercial product Noxudol 700 from Auson AB, Kungsbacka, Sweden. This material is of waxy appearance and includes a liquid paraffin component.

A bit more research:
Sulphonic acids - rust cleaner
overbased calcium salts - oil additive to prevent rust
pentaerythritol - referenced in several corrosion inhibition papers.
polymers with isophthalic acid - referenced in corrosion resistance material
tall oils - used as a base for corrosion inhibitor products

We're at year 2 for our Highlander and the Noxudol 300 is holding up extremely well. Only very minor touch ups are needed once a year. Our winters feature salt, sand, and temps to -35 C.

They (Noxudol) also advises in a perfect world to treat high chassis exposure areas with 700 first as it has a higher creep rate. Then after a few days, cover with 300. It's not quite as simple as the yearly application stuff (which won't survive high exposure chassis areas), but worth the extra trouble as you're not doing it yearly.
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Open to give a try to Noxudol 700 . It is not to expensive. One bottle is almost 20 oz. My line of thinking to is 2 things. One for cavities and the other for undercarriage. I'm at Cosmoline/FF set at moment.
This guy used Krown every year and his frame broke any way at Toyota.

 

Huge if true.

 

Stay buy Cosmoline at undercarriage but ff in cavities. The rear hitch frame rusted from inside out even though I sprayed it with Cosomoline inside frame. Cosmoline at C frame of my truck seem to hold well. Do believe that ff all over would be the best solution but to messy to work at truck than.
Edit. But I did start to spray Cosmoline inside of this thing in photo only in 2020 when truck was 23 years old. Probably if would start earlier spray Cosmoline in rust would develop less. However still believe Lanoline, ff is way to go in cavities and actually over entire undercarriage if someone is ok work at car with ff all around.