well i was going to pull my turbo to put a 1.0 exhaust housing on it and when i got the intake boot off i noticed some play in the shaft.

YouTube - 7pt3 turbo.AVI

does that look like too much. it spins great, and i didnt notice any rubbing on the housing or the wheel. it does look a like it might be dusted a bit, but that could have been from the stock intake that was on it for 70k miles.









the truck has just under 100k on it, but it regularly sees 25-28psi when im towing. im not super versed on turbos, but it seemed like a bit much.
it has no in and out play. just side to side.
thanks.

 

I would say it is at its limits. A even sloppier turbo will still boost but the wheel will start eating into the housing. It looks as though yours is fairly close already but can still have lots of miles left before the wheel starts making contact.

So its not how much play a turbo has it is the wheel to housing clearance that is important.


*edit* In and out play is bad however, just had to add that in.

 

Grab it with 2 fingers and gently move it around. If you lean on it hard enough with a wrench you can break it.

A little up and down movement is fine if it doesn't make contact with the housing. In and out movement is bad (again, check this gently don't put vice grips on there and pull)

 

i was being gentle with it, i was just using the wrench because my sausage fingers were blocking the shot.

well i got it out and took the exhaust housing off, and





not much damage to the exhaust housing though.



all the fins are effed up.




can you get just the turbine wheel? or is it part of the shaft?

also, this looks like FOD, but would that mean that the debris would have been run through my engine to get here? or parts of my engine that caused the damage?

 

I'd agree that looks like FOD. How does your pyro probe look? Did the tip break off?

 

good question, i didnt think of that. the pyro always worked, would it breaking prevent it from reading?
ill check it tonight.

ive googled turbine wheels, and cant seem to find out if you can get them seperately. even called the stealership and they dont have it avail.

looks like ill need a new turbo.
guess its time for a gtp38r

 

Contact Ron's Turbo Service on Ebay (his username is johnsmith04shop or soemthing like that) and see if he can get you the parts you need.

 

man thats not good at all. i wonder if clay could get that part?

 

well i said f-it.
got one of these bad boys.





got a non-ebpv outlet too and ill be running a non-ebpv pedestal.



and while everything is out, im also installing a 6.0 ic, 6.0 tranny cooler, new ic boots, and a rebuilt terminator hpop.

just gettin all the supporting mods for my stage 2's that ill be getting soon.

 

Careful. Ca smog checks them now. I'm told it's just a visual, but still.....

 

ya i know its horse s.
but the turbo looks the same as a stock unit, other than the intake hose (which is legal). the only other thing that would fail me would be the IC, which since im runnin a stock 6.0 ic it looks exactly like the 7.3 one, just a bit longer.
ive got till feb before i gotta get it smogged. we'll see how it goes.

 

Speaking of the radial play (up & down) it looks a bit excessive. It's likely at or above the max tolerance. I haven't messed with many automotive turbos, but, i am a machinery specialist, so I am used to seeing GE, Westinghouse, Mitsubishi, etc-much bigger but still a machine and for the shaft diameter and wheel diameter that radial play you demo'd in reference to the allowed clearance in my opinion would be excessive in a sleeve bearing (which i believe it is). just my opinion

 

The exhaust wheel is part of the shaft, only the intake wheel is bolted on. I wouldn't have gotten a new wheel either because the bushings are played out in your old turbo, you made the right choice!


Nick: turbo slop is ok all the way up till the wheel starts to contact the housing. Really you would want to rebuilt the turbo just before it makes contact so you don't tear **** up. Some of the bigger turbos you mentioned may have ball bearings in them. Top end turbos almost always have ball bearings instead of the brass bushings like most all factory automotive turbos.

A turbo is relatively easy to rebuild so long as your wheels and housings aren't all tore up like the OP's. Just make sure you scribe the intake wheel to the shaft so you replace it in the same position.

 

Would this be acceptable play and it also looks like there is some damage to the wheel, would this hurt it

 

Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

That radial play is fine. The worn tip on the compressor wheel might be dusting, indicates your air filtration system is bad. OEM filter boxes had a bad habit of breaking retention clips. Pic of that will help. I see no wear on the compressor housing to indicate contact. So yay!

Do all the fin tips look like that, or just that particular one?