You are getting rid of the sharp bends on the factory, 2/12 duals with no bends is my favorite exhaust.

 

Between here and OB I have only heard of a few manifolds cracking, so if yours aren't cracked then I wouldn't worry about it. If you do end up with a cracked manifold, try e-bay. I saw some there for $50 shipped. I got lucky and scored a pair on CL for $15.

 

Right now, the truck has a dual 2-1/2" exhaust. It looks horrible running down one side of the truck. I don't like twice the pipe under there slammed together with two mufflers then turning out behind the rear passenger tire. I'd rather one pipe.

I'm probably jumping the gun on the manifolds, but it's my daily driver. I'll inspect my exhaust manifolds with a fine tooth comb before deciding on whether or not to buy new ones. It seems like every part I go to replace, the part that's bolted to it, needs to be replaced too. Replacing a part of an assembly on this truck hasn't been a success thus far.

 

Mech,

You're definitely jumping the gun on the manifolds. There is no reason to believe that new ones will outlast the ones you have on there. It's just a solid chunk of metal, and as stated, they rarely ever break.

If there's no leak then just leave them be. They'll probably outlast the truck.

 

I really like the look of that custom Y-pipe. I'm going to find an exhaust shop here tomorrow!!!!! You bet I'll have one on my truck by next week. I never liked the stock Y.......cheesy looking and wimpish. Bgger is always better......at least thats what she said BTW, I had a cracked exhaust manifold on my other engine. It went almost completely around the whole thing.

 

iv having my exhaust installed this Saturday.
the first place told me 5-8 hrs just in the Y pipe lmao.tried to convince me to build it like the stock one.needless to say i went elsewhere.
finally found a good shop and he says the Y pipe will be $175-200
a few extra for hanging the rest.

he says they have everything needed to build it,but no one around can bend over 3" pipe!
so i got a length of 3.5" pipe
a reducer 5" X 4" fleetguard #89277A
a reducer 4" X 3.5" fleetguard #89186A
a 3.5" mandrel bent elbow
4 3.5" clamps
1 5" clamp (to connect the reducers.)
1 Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded Muffler #17224
so he can now fit both pipes of 2.5" diameter into the 5" and mash the side of it with a hammer like in the pic,to make it a custom collector,and weld it up.

i now see though,the elbow wont clear the frame.i forgot about that.so i'll need a couple 45 3.5" elbows to put the elbow where i want it to exit in front of the pass side rear tire.
i'll just have him hang everything back to there on Saturday.who knows they may carry 3.5" stock,even if they cant bend it.
i'll have a nice free flowing exhaust soon and do up a vid,to show how she sounds.

the plans.following this guys work:









i looked up that reducer.and it appears to be 3" out.which would save a lot of hassle because the shops could bend this for you.
it may be all thats required.but,man i want that 3.5" so i know i have enough flow.
here it is:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-41989/

but since its 4" that means his twins pipes are 2" - the way im going,i can start out with dual 2.5" pipes or perhaps 2.25 would fit into a 5" reducer? i'll know day after tomorrow what happens,and what he suggests.i'm going to show him what i have,and tell him what i want.he may have better things to work with.just in case,i got these.i'll return 'em if they don't help.

 

here's the two reducers i hope to start with:

edit.
oh duh.what was i thinking getting a 5" clamp.i wanted a 4" clamp to connect the two,not 5".oops.
oh well,least im not alone.the parts guy didn't catch that one either lol.
might clamp up just fine tho i'll try it............

nope.need a 4"

 

I'll quit jumping the gun on the exhaust manifolds once I verify no manifold leaks or cracks.

FORDF250HDXLT, what are the specs on that Y-pipe? Are the pipes that connect to the manifolds 2.5" diameter? Does the driver's side pipe loop under the motor's oil pan, or near the tranny? That thing looks sweet. That's weird nobody can bend +3" pipe in your area.

 

she's on.


Custom 3.5" Single Exhaust.
1 Reducer 5" X 4" Fleetguard #89277A
1 Reducer 4" X 3.5" Fleetguard #89186A
Custom Mandrel Bent Y Pipe Flowing Though Joined
Reducers.
Flattened Sides & Welded To Make Custom Collector.
3.5" Into A Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded Muffler #17224

she likes the extra flow.more power indeed.gets up to speed even quicker,and coming back on the interstate she got up to the higher speeds easier as well.
75MPH was quick and very easy to maintain (not that it wasn't before.but even more so now.)

very BIG & DEEP tone.

 

Where's the "this thread is worthless without video" smiley???

 

man it sounds really beefy.
because im cheap,i passed on buying a card for the camera at store.
i ordered it online much cheaper.it wont be here til next week.
so i cant record video yet.
my sister as a vid cam tho.i'll check with her about borrowing it.
i'll see about going over and making a clip for ya guys.
i think your gunna like it.
edit.oh shoot.i forgot,iv got to run and do a job estimate too.so it may be a few hrs lol.sorry for the early tease.i'll get going now.

 

Dont they have a walmart(ugghh) in your area? I got my card for $11.

 

FORDF250HDXLT, where did you get the exhaust flanges that bolt to the manifold? All the parts places I have been to don't have them or can't order them. A bit off topic, but I could really use the help!

-Dave

 

all they had was one for $35
don't recall the size of it.
i scored one from amazon for $14 8 gig hp.

the muffler shop should handle this for you.
what this guy did,was just cut off the old pipe and weld the new pipes after the flanges.this way he didn't have to take them off which saved me some green.
he asked me if that was ok first.said he couldn't bolt on anything larger to the manifolds anyway.i agreed,and cutting/welding the pipes on he went.
i forgot to snap a pic up this far to show what he did.i'll snap it tomorrow.
keep in mind though,my exhaust was in great condition and rock solid to start with.don't do this if your pipes are rusty.

 

I have the manifolds themselves covered, but I need another flange like it to secure my up pipe to my turbo bracket

My pipes are lightly rusted toward the end, but surprisingly clean right under the cab. In fact, clean enough that I cut and welded them to make my turbo up pipes.

Now I just need to hunt down some 2 inch wide header wrap. On that note, anyone recommend "header wrap sealant" paint or some good high temp stuff like Dave S soaked his in? Might as well get some to do that since I have to run to the muffler shop on Monday anyway.

-Dave