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My rear differential service - with pics
#33
#34
Checking and changing the lash can be detrimental. The lash can vary with the gearset due to the original cutting of the teeth. What is more important is the contact area which can be checked with red lead, prussian blue, etc. Basically if it doesn't whine, don't touch it.
If the pattern is perfect, leave it alone. Don't even check the backlash
If you checked it and changed it, not only is it a lot of work (pressing off and on the bearings), but you will change the point at where the gears meet, and you will either CREATE a whine, or worse if you're towing or hauling heavy, overheat the gear lube because of the resulting small contact pattern until they are broken in again.
#35
#36
I'm pretty sure those lines are from the original cutting of the gear and the wear hasn't gone deep enough to eliminate them. Those teeth are actually meshing very well, the pattern covers a large swath and terminates perfectly at the toe and heel of the tooth. Teeth that aren't hitting right will have shiny areas with on obviously irregular pattern.
#37
Bill/bpounds, great writeup. I found a nice set of Mag Hytec covers (trans & Rear Diff) on Craigslist for $150. I didn't document the isntall quite like you have. I should've tho. They (Mag's) are so nice with the gasket, no silicone required, a nice o-ringed fill hex bolt, nice allen bolts for bolting it on, and places for temperature gauges, dual magnetic pieces for grabbing anything in there, etc. No leaks after a month of driving, the o-ring gasket only.
The rearend looks great. I've always liked the polished look, but I have come to enjoy the black/polished look as of late. Take care.......
The rearend looks great. I've always liked the polished look, but I have come to enjoy the black/polished look as of late. Take care.......
#38
#39
I'm not an expert, but I've seen plenty of gears in my time, and I can say that nothing there alarmed me. I was suprised how much detail the picture showed. I think the flash affected it a little. It definitely highlighted the contact patch much more than the naked eye.
I was looking for any evidence of a streaked path, like where a bit of grit might have scratched the surface. I ran my fingernail across a tooth feeling for any bite or grab of my nail. The 2 or 3 teeth I touched were smooth as glass.
#41
#42
No problems. It's always been quiet, and my limited slip seems to work, at least equal to my expectations.
I bought the truck with 30k on the clock. Therefore there were some unknowns. The rear looked so good, I don't think I am going to bother opening the front diff.
I tow frequently. And even if I wasn't, the Ford recommendation of 100k between diff service doesn't set well with me.
As for the aluminum cover, I would not open a diff just to install that thing. But since I was doing the service anyway, spending $50 on an aluminum cover was a no-brainer. I would have spent a couple of hours cleaning and painting the old steel one. I'm sure it cools the lube better too.
#45
All the single rear wheel Superduties use the same differential, up to at least 2010. You can find the part number for the aluminum cover here:
www.partsguyed.com
They are an FTE sponsor too.
Part number is 8C3Z4033A
www.partsguyed.com
They are an FTE sponsor too.
Part number is 8C3Z4033A
EDIT:
The P/N for the "Ford" bolts is 6L1Z-4346-AA ... and they aint cheap either ... 12 will cost more than the cover!
McMaster-Carr has a 5/16-18 x 1-1/4 Stainless Steel Serrated Flange Hex Bolts (#97646A160) for $10.02/pk (Sold in packs of 10) ... these are probably closer to the Ford bolts and you won't need to add a lock washer.
There's also a mention of a 5R3Z-7860108-AA "Plug" going on the cover; but, I don't see such in the OP's pics.
Last edited by 98SurplusExpy; 10-26-2009 at 09:39 PM. Reason: Found the P/N ...