I had all the GFI outlets checked...they're fine. I wish it was as inexpensive as that.

I have been known to be "Grumpy" on occassion!!!

 

I'd still replace the GFI, Levitron are notorious for taking a spike then multiple ones in the house acting funny. Get a Cooper, 20 Amp. GFI and try that. Also check the plug cord for pinch marks, fraying. If you have googles or a face shield, unplug the refrigerator and carefully pull the cover off the compressor terminal, check to see if the start relay is burned or fell apart. Another thing to look at is the fan motor for punched wires. Also it should turn very freely. Under the front grill or behind the back sheild there should be a rolled up piece of paper with the wiring diagram on it and may have a trouble shooting flow chart.

 

LG is a good brand now days. Also keep an eye open, feds have given states money to fund an appliance rebate program for energy star appliances purchased this year. Each state is making it's own rules and time lines for this program. Also GFI's are not motor friendly, try replacing yours with a non GFI outlet and see if it cures your problem. New code is calling for GFi outlets in our barns on all circuits now but they are not compatiable with electric fence chargers and larger motors used in the milk houses. We let the inspector sign off and put regular outlets back in after on circuits that won't work with the GFI outlets.

 

The two thoughts I have on this are that the compressor in the reefer has a capacitor (SURGE CAPACITOR) to take up the initial load when it kicks on. But a GFI fault indicates windings beginning to short out from overheating - not an overload. THUS: DEAD COMPRESSOR/MADE IN CHINA. Not worth repair effort

My second notion is that if you can contact some apartment maintenance or management people and find out what they go with for refrigerators - you know dang well they choose appliances with an eye towards reliability and profitability. Units that have to be replaced cost them money, and units that don't require maintenance or replacement (regardless of abuse) are something that they most likely have more knowlege and profit/loss demographics on than the original manufacturers, because apartment complexes don't guess. They maintain track records of performance for all of that stuff, it's the only way to stay in the black! In addition TO: They have to maintain not just one, but several hundred of the doggone things at a time. A few bucks difference here and there multiplied by several hundred units gets downright serious - so they would definitely know what lasts.

SNEAKY UNDERHANDED WAY TO DO IT: Visit some people in good apartment complexes, and take notes on exactly what appliances and manufacturers are supplied in the unit.

SNEAKY UNDERHANDED METHOD NUMBER TWO: Open a thread in this forum asking for people who live in apartments to list the appliances, models, and brands that are in their apartments and what they think of them - with or without explaining the real reason why.

I decided some time ago to replace every last "G-WIZZ" unit in my place with basic but very strong units as soon as I could afford to - and identify them by the criteria and method that I just explained.

 

Agreed! In fact, if this outlet is at least 6 feet from the sink, I would get rid of that SOB altogether. You don't need GFCI on a fridge.

Flame away, I don't care!

 

Here's another notion for your noggin:

HOW MANY OUTLETS ARE CONNECTED TO THAT SAME GFI?

If there are a lot that don't belong on it - that sucker is reading a "CUMULATIVE" failure, not an ACTUAL one.

A seperate breaker for the fridge makes a lot of sense.

Thing of it is though - most GFI's are "DAISY-CHAINED" together, so that could mean running some new ROMEX from a blank and a new breaker in the breaker box. Which could be VERY worthwhile in the long run.

I still don't understand what a fridge is doing on a GFI anyway.

At risk of being overly technical, I'd be tempted to unplug the fridge and read from the ground prong to both of the other prongs and see how bad it really is....

GFI's were invented to protect people in a BATHROOM. Major house circuits are another whole story.

(THIS IS PROBABLY RISKY)
Go to a NON-GFI, or at least a seperate outlet from the kitchen GFI with a heavy extension cord, and see if the SOB runs without tripping a breaker. Consider that a test... Make damned sure it's a grounded cord, too.

To find a non-gfi circuit, you need to spend about six bux at home despot or somewhere - get a "GROUND FAULT TESTER" with a button that allows you to overload the system. It will also tell you if any outlets have been MIS-WIRED

 

Could be especially worthwhile if you buy a new fridge only to find that it does the same thing.

I think current code requires a dedicated breaker for the fridge bay, not positive, and of course it depends on where you live and how old the construction. I know mine is dedicated for the fridge and another for the microwave.

 

I ought to devise a "GROUND LEAK CURRENT TEST SET" just for that - all it would take is some three conductor wire, and meter connections at a junction box.

* After seeing how they build homes around Memphis I wonder why they don't either fall or BURN down before they are even sold...

 

1*GFI's are motor friendly, a licenced electrician needs to match the GFI with the equipment.
2*You delibertly and willfully broke the law

By posting what you did on the internet you have set yourself up for a hugh lawsuit. You could loose everything you have and do jail time if you kill someone.

Look-up on web "Removed Ground Fault Lawsuits"

 

On the lower voltage equipment there is nothing to match up on a GFI. Some electric motors just have more leakage then others and those will cause tripping when it is not justified. Electrcic fencers work by shocking anything that touches the wire and the return path of that energy is through the ground circuit, GFCI's are not compatiable with this equipment but are required by code. Tripping when the equipment is doing it's job can allow the cattle to get loose and be hit by a car which will bring a lawsuit. I work as an electrician in a power plant and I know how to set up circuits, there are some applications where the GFCI will not work but the new code requires it. That is why it gets removed after the inspection of the barn.

 

Just an update...on Monday I received a recall notice from Maytag...it's the second I've received. Previously my fridge wasn't on the recall list...I checked...now it is. Something about a relay for the compressor that overheats. Service call is scheduled...we'll see what happens.

I'll have to prepare a list of the food that spoiled...there should be compensation for that...and...perhaps something for the time I've been without a refrigerator.

 

I'm at home with the appliance repairman right now...turns out that there was a fire in the wiring to the compressor...the recalled relay overheated. The ONLY thing that saved me from some serious damage to my home was the GFCI outlet that tripped and cut the juice to the relay!!! He's attempting to rewire the thing now...no damage to the compressor...and install the updated relay!!!

Now...if this works...I have to go after Maytag for the food I lost...approximately $500 worth!!! I had enought forsight to make a list as I was throwing it out!!!

 

YIKES....

And that from a MAYTAG.

Stuff isn't what it once was, is it?

 

I'm glad you avoided major damage Ken. That kind of stuff is scary, and you should nail Maytag for all you can.

I don't believe for a minute that it was the GFI that saved you. That's just Maytag Repair Man showing his ignorance.

 

Glad it kinda sorta worked out for the best for you Ken. Not having to pay for a new fridge or repairs to the old one is good. Definitely go after 'em with both barrels to get $$$ for your spoiled food.