What I found in the rear tank
#32
07-30-2009 | 06:31 PM
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Pukalani, HI
Okay boys let me give the rundown. Went to Napa and of course they could order me the strainer, but it would be a week before they could get it so I went to the back with them (since I used to work there) and browsed around looking at the different strainers they had. I found one I had to modify a bit but it worked the part number I used was Line code: NFP Part #STS-136. Here are the pics of the newly modified pickup.
All said and done with the three inch 3/8 fuel line, two hose clamps and the strainer cost me $30.36. I placed the assembly in the tank and it sits on the bottom as is should, so I should be able to get everydrop out this sucker now HE HE HE HE
. The strainer was a little bigger than the hose so I sqrayed some white lithium grease in the hose and it slid on like a champ. Dave or M.L.S.C., if you want you can save these pics to for a reference so it may help somebody else that may want to do the same thing. I haven't installed it back in the tank yet because I noticed the tank had a teeny bit of rust where the straps run (not enough to really worry about) so right now I'm waiting for the nice coating of rubberized undercoating spray I just applied to cover the rust and prevent any more, and to protect rubbing issues. I'll let you guys know how well it works.
All said and done with the three inch 3/8 fuel line, two hose clamps and the strainer cost me $30.36. I placed the assembly in the tank and it sits on the bottom as is should, so I should be able to get everydrop out this sucker now HE HE HE HE
. The strainer was a little bigger than the hose so I sqrayed some white lithium grease in the hose and it slid on like a champ. Dave or M.L.S.C., if you want you can save these pics to for a reference so it may help somebody else that may want to do the same thing. I haven't installed it back in the tank yet because I noticed the tank had a teeny bit of rust where the straps run (not enough to really worry about) so right now I'm waiting for the nice coating of rubberized undercoating spray I just applied to cover the rust and prevent any more, and to protect rubbing issues. I'll let you guys know how well it works.
#35
07-16-2010 | 05:49 PM
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,784
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
I have that same strainer in mine (it was a gasser remember). In almost two yrs I have replaced it twice due to plugging. I also seem to be changeing fuel filters a lot more often as well (can't even make 2 oil changes 5-6000 miles). I don't know if we are just getting dirty fuel around here or what but that type strainer seems to catch a lot of crap.
#36
07-16-2010 | 09:02 PM
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
I'm not sure what strainer you guys are putting in, but they are different for diesel. The diesel strainers have a larger pore size. If you look at the OE strainer, they have a bypass valve above the screen to let fuel flow when it gets thick (cold). At any rate try to use one from a diesel. As far as the low filter life is concerned, you could add a remote filter that uses an FL1A filter. $3.97 @ ChinaMart. They are cheaper than the Standard FF. They don't filter as fine as the OE FF, They will catch stuff down to ~ 20 to 30 Microns. FF's are at around 10 Micron or less. Just install it between the fuel pump and the OE FF. $12.95 at Summit. Trans-Dapt Performance Products 1028 - Trans-Dapt Performance Remote Oil Filter Brackets - Overview - SummitRacing.com 
#37
07-16-2010 | 09:19 PM
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 1
From: back in SE Iowa
Unfortunately, after owning my truck for two years I just finished fixing that same issue.
I replaced the "shower head" and used a piece of fuel hose. Originally I did not put any type of strainer on the end and I have had fuel issues to no end in the mean time due to small pieces of my "shower head" that I could not remove when I had the tanks off.
After killing two fuel tank selector valves (FTSV) due to pieces of the old shower head, I wised up and replaced the fuel lines to the FTSV and the FTSV itself. At this point I put screen over the ends of the fuel lines to avoid sucking up any more rogue particules that may be in my fuel tank....
I now have over 1,000 miles since the fix and no issues.
Now back to focusing on burning WMO!!!
Thad
I replaced the "shower head" and used a piece of fuel hose. Originally I did not put any type of strainer on the end and I have had fuel issues to no end in the mean time due to small pieces of my "shower head" that I could not remove when I had the tanks off.
After killing two fuel tank selector valves (FTSV) due to pieces of the old shower head, I wised up and replaced the fuel lines to the FTSV and the FTSV itself. At this point I put screen over the ends of the fuel lines to avoid sucking up any more rogue particules that may be in my fuel tank....
I now have over 1,000 miles since the fix and no issues.
Now back to focusing on burning WMO!!!
Thad
#40
07-16-2010 | 11:09 PM
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,784
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
WMO= waste motor oil. I have wondered if my screen was a little finer than a diesel screen. But i don't mind changeing them or the filter a little more often. I figure that if it is dirty fuel in my area then it is protecting my ip and injectors. And they cost way more than a few screens or filters and easier to replace.
#43
07-17-2010 | 01:19 AM
New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
#45
07-18-2010 | 02:27 AM
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 421
Likes: 1