I am doing okay friend. Thanks for asking. It's good ta be back on the boards and posting again. Hunting season opens next week so me and the Boys will be mostly in the woods till school starts hehehe.

 

I am planning on these,


http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/39...-L302/10002/-1

 

ah the crinkle black covers, they look nice, and are easy too keep clean vs. polished aluminum or chrome,

but the Polished aluminum will be my route as i like the look of shiny metal! , i got a set of blank chrome valve covers on my 302w right now in the truck, but i did find a set of valve covers that are crinkle black, paid 30 bucks for them, the only problem is they say Holley on them, and i am running a all Edelbrock intake, but i was thinking of putting a emblem over the Holley and just slapping them on, might still do that, in till i have some extra funds for the 2 different ones i posted links to earlier,

-Brent

 

Yeah my engine bay is going to be black and I am using red ford spark plug wires, with those valve covers, red top optima battery, black block and a chrome ford racing air cleaner. But it all started because of those valve covers, i didn't want to deal with the cleaning and maintaing of the chrome ones. I wish the lettering came in Ford Blue.

 

I have now had 6 of those optima batteries I suggest you leave them where they are. On the shelf. All and I mean ALL of them have died, due to just sitting for as little as 1 month. Every one died at 2 months before their 3 year birthday. It was/is sad. I have given up on optimas since because they are infuriating. They die when not even in the car for less than 2 months, they die when they feel like it.

I was the biggest Optima nutswinger for the longest time, but time has shown me that they are not worth the trouble. I have since moved on to other better style of batteries. I personally like Odyssey or Deka batteries. I know they are expensive but the Odyssey are very well known and loved in the automotive industry.

The Deka aren't quite as well known but they don't seem to have the discharge issues that Optima have and they work great. I have 4 now in my CTD's and the oldest are 3 to 4 years old and they are amazing. They never give any crap, they will jump start a bulldozer after sitting for weeks, and they put up with a 1600W stereo being on for 5-7 hours with no problem. I will guarantee that none of my optimas will put up with that, or put out like that.

Sorry to rant, just hate Optimas. They are not the battery they claim to be, and it could be because they have branched out, but either way there are much better brands.

Now onto your truck. Nice build. You can look for GT40's I had a set on my 94 Lightning and they make very good torque. The issue is that people want $$$ for them. I have seen very used sets going for 350. This means you will need to work them when you get them, and that is expensive. valve guides, valve seals, valve seats, new valves, springs etc all cost money. As does decking the heads, and any other operations needed. This work can add up to $500+ really easy.

On this note if you can search places like here, the www.nloc.net and even the corral.net you may find a good set of aftermarket heads for 8-900 and be WAY ahead of the game. You will have aftermarket aluminum heads and make a lot more power.

I was just in your situation with my 93 notchback and I am VERY glad I went with the aftermarket head route. I got a hell of a deal(I thought) at the time on a set of trick flow twisted wedge heads for about 500. Well these heads needed some work so I sent them back to Trick Flow and man they are the best in the world. The really helped me out because it turned out that the heads needed much more work than originally thought, and hooked me up.

They put in new valve guides, valve seats, did the geometry upgrade to the rockers(converting to stud rockers) new valves, new locks, new spring cups, new retainers, new valve seals, decked the heads, and I got new hardware for the stud mount rockers.

All for 500.

I know I didn't come out on the top totally, but basically I did in my eyes. I got basically new heads for 1000, they are aluminum, and quite possibly one of the best designs for a street 302. They work amazingly and believe me they make more steam than my stock GT40's, my friend's ported GT40's and easily as much as my AFR 185's.

Otherwise I think you are going to love the truck.

Chris

 

Nice truck, for whatever reason my previous post was deleted or "needed to be reviewed by a mod" for some reason. I have been here 5 years, and while I don't post much I don't understand this.

Chris

 

Thanks for the advice about the optimas, the main reason I want them is because they match the color scheme I am going with red and black. I will do head eventually its just not in the budget right now, spending every dime I have, I am paying for everything out of pocket on my minimum wage 25hr/wk salary.

 

Update time!!!

Well I got all my gaskets and seals in today, and am planning on taking apart the engine and putting all my new goodies on it on saturday!! Lots of pics coming!!

Today I sanded down and cleaned my engine bay to prep it for a coat of primer and paint.

Here are some pics:

Starting:







Me working:

 

Black truck bed liner in a spray can, will make a great coating for the engine compartment, just a tip, as it should hold up better than normal paint,

-Brent

 

Thanks, I was debating between that and rusteluem type product. I don't want it to fade and look like crap in a few years, like some bed liners tend to do.

 

Just a little tip for what I do-Get thicker gauge battery terminal wires. Just incase your starter dies decides to pull buko amperage and melt your ground, thoroughly screwing you. And I hope your not depending on that factory jack to much, they are worthless.

 

the reason the bed liners fade is due to the UV rays from the sun, thus you should have no problem since the closed hood will block out the UV rays, you can Google that to confirm that info,

-Brent

 

Looking good, son. Gonna pull all the hardware and wiring before you paint it?
I use implement enamel, semi gloss or semi flat, for the under hood. Cheaper, durable and long lasting. The "smooth" finish seems a little easier to keep clean than the rougher finish of a "bed liner" tupe product.
Keep up the good work.

Roger Carter

 

Thanks I have new battery cables and all waiting for install. About the jack, can't say I was, but I just left it in there for the factory look.

 

ah i don't want to start a huge debate, but the truck bed liner stuff is miles ahead of any spray can paint, and the bed liner spray is not hard to clean? in fact its easier to clean due to its a rubber like coating,

also one of the reasons the truck bed liner spray is better is its a rubberized coating, thus flaking and peeling is less prevalent, and it will hold up much longer than any other paint, thus why would they make a product for the bed of a truck if it was weak? they use it in pick up beds because they need a tough coating to stand up to all the harsh movements in the box,

so stick with the bed liner stuff, and you will be miles ahead, trust me, and while your at it, due your inner wheel wheels, and if you have the front splash guards remove them then give it all a good coat up in there, well give it a good clean before you spray the inner wheel wheels of course

-Brent