Ok, this topic is brought up all the time. Chime in all with info. Admin, can we sticky this as a possible tech, or first read for people in need of the info?

One of the first, and most common upgrades most people make on their old Ford trucks is the electrical. By now, you're probably cussing the PO (previous owner) for the rats nesting twisted mess under the dash of your new baby. If it's frayed, and bare, and stiff, and crumbly, get it out of there NOW! Run a few wires from a battery for testing purposes. There are many options available. You have to decide, it's your truck. Do some testing. Does the wiper motor work? Does the heater motor work? If so, then give a sigh of relief, as they are the most expensive parts to replace in the entire electrical system. I spent a week researching the 12 volt conversion, and a couple different options. I did this because my F-800 cannot be 6 volt. They don't have a 6-volt starter or fuel shut off solenoid for a Caterpillar diesel engine. There are several companies out there that supply us with our restoration and repair parts. It is often cheaper in the long run to buy a premade harness. If you are going to stay concours correct (perfect restoration, nothing strays form original), then you need all 6 volt accessories. These are all readily available, but do come at a price. If you are not concerned with perfection in this regard (most people can't tell anyway, unless they lift your battery box lid and see the 12 volt battery), then do the 12 volt conversion now, and get it out of the way. This will open the door to add on electrical options later (alarm, power windows, stereo, etc., etc.). In my research, I found two companies that have the best prices for the parts necessary. To do this conversion right, you should change everything in the entire electrical system, including all the switches, horn relay, bulbs, motors, etc. This is just over $1000 including shipping at todays 2-10-2009 prices from Mid-Fifty parts in Golden Valley, Arizona, and Concour Parts and Restoration in Carson City, Nevada. Of all the sources, these two had the best prices for everything needed for the 12 volt conversion. If your gauges and motors are still good, and you don't need sending units, then you have the option of keeping them and using electronic voltage reducers. Don't use the ceramic ones, they are dangerous (they get REALLY hot). Mid-Fifty has them at $63 each, and you need one to run all the gauges, and one that runs the wiper and heater motor. You can also go the route of buying a used '56 instrument cluster and taking the gauges out of it for the 53-55 trucks. You can remove the gauge face, and the mounting plate, and swap them, and the 56 will fit right into the 53-55 cluster, and look original.....voila, 12 volt gauges, now get some 12 volt senders to match. I think that about sums it up for now.

Can some one post the schematic for the 53-55 wiring?

I have the list of my research available with part numbers and prices, and will try to get it up here soon.

 

In an effort to save the fingers from having to type this all out again, I'm simply going to refer folks to one of the many other threads on this subject. Joe has a good point in that it comes up regularly, as do many of the threads we see here.

I'll add a few comments to the quote above and invite everyone to review this thread and the others that can be found using the Search function:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...onversion.html

 

The 12V heater blower motor used for 1956 trucks is the same one 1956/57 Thunderbirds used: B6A18527B.

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any, no one has the 1956 12V truck only wiper switch (B6C17470B) either.

 

Another option that is seldom discussed (maybe for good reason) is staying with the 6 volt positive ground system with an alternator replacing the generator. One of the biggest complaints with the old systems is that the generator does not kick in at idle speed. There are several sources for a 6 volt pos. ground alternator. And there is info out there for building your own based on the GM style unit. Just a thought for those wanting to retain all of the original gauges, electric motors and radios and still have a system that will keep the battery in a state of charge.

 

Other options most peeps don't know or have forgotten.

Use an 8V battery in place of the 6V.

Use a 6V/12V battery. This enables the vehicle to start on 12V, run on 6V.

Both these batteries were offered in the 1950's because 6V cars/trucks with OHV V8 engines when warm, were hard to start with 6V batteries.

There wasn't enough "juice" to turn these warm engines over...that's the fact!

You'd crank that engine till the battery went dead. Been there...done that.

GM reacted quickly, installing 12V batteries in Cadillac's and Oldsmobiles in 1951, Packard did it in 1955.

Everyone else (Ford/Chrysler/Studebaker/Nash/Hudson) waited till 1956 to install 12V batteries in their vehicles.

 

Hi Folks,

Just a few thoughts. I remember when we had the old 49 Studebaker Flat Head 6 in our boat, my dad used to tap into the 12 volt battery about half way across and put a stud in the plates to draw 6 volts. Knowing what I know now, I don't think that's a very good idea. Ah the old days!

As far as original piece parts are concerned, sometime you will have to go with after market for conversions, or even original replacement. For example, Bills point is well taken on the 12 volt 56 wiper switch. True, so you have to go with the Newport set up for 12 volt - they make direct replacements - not Ford, but it works, and works well. And as I stated above, the repro 56 **** that Carpenter sells does fit on the Newport switch so unless someone wants to get up under the dash with a flashlight and scream "Aha!" nooone is going to know (of course the pure restoration person can do the search for the original or have one made).

Here's where I'm going with this in relation to the original intent of the post - a very good idea, Wmjoe 1953. But, you are talking about a very large system. And though not too technically challenging for some, it's a nightmare trying to sort all this stuff out for most folks. This post would become a MONSTER of small details that no one could follow or would care to read to find the info they want.

So, let me suggest this too you:

The conversion requires attention in the entire electrical system - many many details. And the right way to publish a document that is going to be as LARGE as this one would be to divide it up into areas - say "Engine Ignition and Charging;" "Lights;" "Wire Sizes;" and, "Accessories" Then we divide those up into sub areas say for example for "Engine Ignition and Charging," we have threads on "Alternators vs Generators" "Coil, Points; and Condensor Changes" and so on for each subsystem or critical component.

Then what you do is find the best threads already discussed and edit them into one original post and let people comment on it. So the final "12 Volt Conversion" product is actually a list of links that the reader can go to to get the required information for the single component he is dealing with or has a question about. You might have a list of 20 to 30 links all labeled "For gauge conversion see: WWW.XXXYYYZZZZ.com"

That way folks can address their particular issue or question. And the info is already all out there, it's a matter of collecting it and bundling it up into a single place.

I would be willing to work with you on this behind the scenes to plan the post, flow out an outline. and do the searches.

Let me know.

 

Hello Everyone,

I'm glad ya'll are starting this thread about 12 volt conversion, because I'm starting the to rewire my 50 f1. I think I've figured out most but, I'm not sure how to use the OE 6volt gen. gauge. Help if you can.

 

My 12 year old son and I rewired my 55 F-100 with the Painless wiring harness from Summit racing. And it was painless, we also eliminated the voltage reg. and went with a one wire chev. alt.. It sure cleaned up the looks of things and puts out the amps at slightly more than an idle. My neighbor and fishing partner opted for the summit racing wiring harness to save a couple of bucks and it did not have nearly the insructions (10 pages compared to 28 for the painless) and the tech. support wasn't even close. I called Painless several times and each time they were great!I had in retrospect some really stupid or simple questions. Now we have power seats (thinking about changing) power windows and 150 watts per channel stereo. I can't even imagine myself with 6 volts. But to each his own. rock on!

 

It's used exactly the same as it was with 6 Volt. I'ts an induction loop and will pick up current flow irregardless of the voltage.

So, wiring goes from battery tab on the voltage regulator to the circuit breakers on the instrument panel (or where power is distributed) then through the loop to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid. Now that it is negative ground (instead of positive ground) you need to run the wire through the loop in the opposite direction.

There have been MANY threads on this subject. The link in the #2 post is a good one. YO might want to do a search (upper right side of the page - says "Search this Forum" and type in 12 volt conversion.

 

Hi Folks,
Forty some years ago when I was in the Air Force a buddy of mine had a '52 Chrysler with one of the first Hemis in it. It had a six volt system that was kind of hard to start under certain conditions. Apparently it was a common problem because places like J C Whitney sold kits to rig two 6 Volt batteries to start it on 12 Volts and run on 6 Volts. by using solenoid relays to effect the series/parallel switching.

I don't know if any one sells these kits nowadays but it isn't that hard to make one fron parts available at a real parts store, (not Auto Zone type places). Cole-Hersey makes continueous duty solenoid relays that are really tough and can handle anything you throw at them. I would be happy to create and post a schematic wiring diagram if there is any interest. This is not a cheap fix as those solenoids are expensive and there is the cost of an additional 6 Volt battery. Also I know of sources online you can get the solenoid relays from if you can't find them locally. There is a good chance of picking them up on ebay for a good price.

The biggest advantages are as follows: You don't have to go to a 12 Volt starter but you can if you so deaire. All the rest of your 6 Volt electrical system remains the unchanged. The disadvantages are: You have to find a place for the second battery and you the initial expense which could possibly be as much as $200.00.

A few additional notes: The electrical and induction properties of the 6 volt starter motor are such that using them on 12 Vots will not harm them. They will actually last longer and perform better. If you do elect to go to a 12 Volt starter it must be made to work with a positive ground system. If you can't buy one that way, they can be modified for the positive ground system. I would not recommend doing the mod yourself unless you have experience in working on starters and rebuilding them.

Later Folks...

 

Thank's Julie,
Betcha I'll figure the forum out after a while. I'm not real smoth on the computer, but learning.

 

Dave: I've used the start relay that mounts to the 65' mustang right fender near the starter area is made for 12 volt system but would work for what ever. Mounts are part of relay, small in size. I don't know how many years Ford use them, shouldn't be expensive. As with any relay, arcing over life of the relay would make used ones questionable. chuck

 

Chuck,
I'm not sure it will work on a 6 Volt run / 12 Volt start system because all solenoid coils need to be 6 Volt. I have never tried the 12 Volt coils on 6 Volts. The standard Ford solenoid relays are not continueous duty and will burn out when operated continueously. This is necessary to make the system work as one relay has to keep the batteries connected in parallel when running in the 6 Volt mode.

Later Man...

 

That's ok, because as soon as you start to understand it th eIT guys will upgrade the program and you will have to go through the learning curve all over again with all the rest of us.....Posting pictures - now when you can do that, you're in pretty good shape!

It takes awhile, and in the mean time we are always willing to share the "how too's" with new folks.

Say hi to George and Laura for me - I'm late calling them, it's my turn to make dinner.

 

Dave: I was thinking 12volts. You was using two sixes in series for starting and one six for remaining systems. Use 12VDC for relay coils etc. thanks chuck