Dead battery...
#2
Sounds like the batteries. I would check the alternator to make sure it is putting out the right voltage / amps. If the alternator is good, and no other item like internal lights left on etc., then I would replace the batteries.
I would also check to make sure the battery connections are clean, corrosive free, and tight before replacing the batteries.
I would also check to make sure the battery connections are clean, corrosive free, and tight before replacing the batteries.
#3
Sounds like a battery issue to me. You could take them and have them tested. Prior to that I would take a look at connections and make sure you don't have any corrosion built or building up around the terminal's. Corrosion will rob your cranking amps = slow turnover in the cold. If nothing there, some new good strong batteries with tons of Cold Cranking Amps would do the trick if you ask me.
#5
I've had Ford batts, then went to autozone batts, now I have Die Hard Platinum batts they are the only ones i've found that can stand up to what I do and they have awesome CCA. You can get them from Sears which is handy because they have stores everywhere in case you need replacement.
DieHard Automotive Battery, Platinum P-1 - Group Size 34 - Model P-1 at Sears.com
DieHard Automotive Battery, Platinum P-1 - Group Size 34 - Model P-1 at Sears.com
#6
You will get many different replies on what type of battery to buy and how much. I like Interstate for about $125 (Interstate Batteries) or DieHard Platinum for about $189 (DieHard Automotive Battery, Platinum P-2 - Group Size 65 - Model P-2 at Sears.com)
#7
$189 each!!! damn thats a hit!... dumb question but i do have to replace both correct? Also could this just be fluid levels in the batts?
And while im at it, could someone tell me where the hell the plug is for my blk warmer??? ive looked under the front grill and cant find it to save my life! Thinking this will help with the cold starts....
thanks guys!
And while im at it, could someone tell me where the hell the plug is for my blk warmer??? ive looked under the front grill and cant find it to save my life! Thinking this will help with the cold starts....
thanks guys!
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#8
My factory batts lasted right at four years. Replaced with Motorcraft Max. 850 CCA and cost around $115 ea. I liked the warranty and Like was said above about Sears stores, it's easy to find a Ford dealer if traveling and I have trouble. As far as replacing both goes, I replaced both of mine and I think that's the concensus here as well.
#9
$189 each!!! damn thats a hit!... dumb question but i do have to replace both correct? Also could this just be fluid levels in the batts?
And while im at it, could someone tell me where the hell the plug is for my blk warmer??? ive looked under the front grill and cant find it to save my life! Thinking this will help with the cold starts....
thanks guys!
And while im at it, could someone tell me where the hell the plug is for my blk warmer??? ive looked under the front grill and cant find it to save my life! Thinking this will help with the cold starts....
thanks guys!
The price of the batteries is worth it. They should last you a good 5 years so, $380.00 is not all that much all things considered. Don't get me wrong, I am a working man so I know the value of the dollar. Just saying, once you buy them you won't have to worry about it.
The plug on my truck is right under the radiator on the passenger side of the truck.
I didn't see if you had mentioned anything about the corrosion on the terminals or lack of. I would definately start there. Good luck.
#11
#12
I just went out again and made sure. It should be right there around your radiator on the passenger side. I traced the wires a little bit and they seem to go up around the bumper mount on that side and then back along the frame. I didn't go to far. I am supposed to be doing things around the house today. LOL.
Not trying to insult your intelligence but, it does have a cap on the end of it so if you are looking for a plug, it might be hidding from you behind the cap.
If you still can't find it, post again and I will try and do some research and see what we come up with.
Considering your original problem, I am not sure that plugging it in will help much if any. The way I understand the system to work, it is the batteries being cold that is causing the problem. When batteries get older and they are cold they just don't put out the power needed to turn that beast over. Again though, you can take your truck to an autozone if available and they will check them on the truck for free. Can give you a little piece of mind to know you are not changing something that isn't the problem.
Not trying to insult your intelligence but, it does have a cap on the end of it so if you are looking for a plug, it might be hidding from you behind the cap.
If you still can't find it, post again and I will try and do some research and see what we come up with.
Considering your original problem, I am not sure that plugging it in will help much if any. The way I understand the system to work, it is the batteries being cold that is causing the problem. When batteries get older and they are cold they just don't put out the power needed to turn that beast over. Again though, you can take your truck to an autozone if available and they will check them on the truck for free. Can give you a little piece of mind to know you are not changing something that isn't the problem.
#13
#15
Sounds like a battery issue to me. You could take them and have them tested. Prior to that I would take a look at connections and make sure you don't have any corrosion built or building up around the terminal's. Corrosion will rob your cranking amps = slow turnover in the cold. If nothing there, some new good strong batteries with tons of Cold Cranking Amps would do the trick if you ask me.
This is a really good place to start. The corrostion isn't even bad enough to see it on the terminals, but if you clean all connections and the grounds on the frame you would be suprized with the results.