Dead battery...
#17
I don't know why - but many people clean the negative terminal on a battery, or lift it off and see no problems, and leave the positive terminal be...
The CRUCIAL terminal though IS the positive (which requires more effort to get at) and it develops a BLACK compound that resists current flow not only to the starter, but to the charging circuit.
You can see that plating when you look at them - it is a product of electron movement.
It's a surface coating that doesn't even have to be very thick to screw things up!
Worry about your positive terminals more than the negatives, because they cause the most trouble! You want to see nothing but shiny metal there. It also pays to coat them with petroleum jelly, because it resists electolyte intrusion.
The CRUCIAL terminal though IS the positive (which requires more effort to get at) and it develops a BLACK compound that resists current flow not only to the starter, but to the charging circuit.
You can see that plating when you look at them - it is a product of electron movement.
It's a surface coating that doesn't even have to be very thick to screw things up!
Worry about your positive terminals more than the negatives, because they cause the most trouble! You want to see nothing but shiny metal there. It also pays to coat them with petroleum jelly, because it resists electolyte intrusion.
#18
I would strongly reccomend you don't get the autozone batts...I got them and they were shot 4 months later and they wouldn't warranty them out I ended up eating it and buying the Die Hards and haven't had trouble since. On your block heater issue: a lot of trucks did not come with it. The heater is in the block but you have to buy the cord and plug from ford or there are some aftermarket ones on Ebay. I think I paid about $100 for mine from Ford.
Good Luck
eBay Motors: Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel Block Heater Cord 6.0L New (item 150317473237 end time Jan-21-09 19:58:38 PST)
Good Luck
eBay Motors: Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel Block Heater Cord 6.0L New (item 150317473237 end time Jan-21-09 19:58:38 PST)
#20
#21
#22
This might help
#24
not a problem bud......that's what FTE is all about.......i will tell ya that my truck loves it when its plugged in overnight before I start it in the morn.....there is a noticable difference on how easy it cranks over.....also switching from 15-40 rotella during summer to 5-40 in winter seems to have helped crank her over quicker and quieter......just my 2 cents
#25
#26
Here is the current "specials" page which has the MAX batteries listed...
Genuine Parts & Service - Service Specials
#28
Yes, the coupons are good at any dealer. Probably really not need though. For instance the MAX battery coupon says starting at $99.95, so the dealer can pretty much decide the price...
Not sure what the install fee would be for 2 batts. I had mine done when it was in for alternator service so they did not charge me anything extra. It would be worth it though just for the warranty paper trail and not having to deal with hauling the batteries back to them since battery prices are "with exchange"...
As for the oil change coupon, no it does not include diesels. Just read the fine print...
You can also use the find a dealer option on the left side of the coupon page to see if any of the dealers near you are offering any "local" specials that may be listed. I noticed one of the dealers near me is offering the Tested Tough batteries for $66.95 installed...
Not sure what the install fee would be for 2 batts. I had mine done when it was in for alternator service so they did not charge me anything extra. It would be worth it though just for the warranty paper trail and not having to deal with hauling the batteries back to them since battery prices are "with exchange"...
As for the oil change coupon, no it does not include diesels. Just read the fine print...
You can also use the find a dealer option on the left side of the coupon page to see if any of the dealers near you are offering any "local" specials that may be listed. I noticed one of the dealers near me is offering the Tested Tough batteries for $66.95 installed...
#29
Matty, Get a voltmeter. With the engine off disconect the negative terminal on one battery. Measure the voltage across the terminals on that battery, then without doing anything else check the voltage across the terminals on the second battery. If only one battery is failing you should see one battery with +/-12 volts and the one failed is going to be less than 12 volts.
You could either replace the failed battery (cheap fix) or replace both. If you crank the truck with both batteries connected the voltage should be around 12V. If your voltage drop to 10 10.8 V you have issues with your batteries.
The expected life of a batteries are 3 to 5 years. Any battery failed between 3, 4 or 5 years could be considered normal.
If you go the cheap route and replace only one battery be advised that at any moment the second one could go south and may or may not damage the new one. That's why some manufacturers insist on replace both batteries, besides their desire of selling you the second one.
This is a great forum you guys have here!! I have learn a ton on this 6.0L engines.
You could either replace the failed battery (cheap fix) or replace both. If you crank the truck with both batteries connected the voltage should be around 12V. If your voltage drop to 10 10.8 V you have issues with your batteries.
The expected life of a batteries are 3 to 5 years. Any battery failed between 3, 4 or 5 years could be considered normal.
If you go the cheap route and replace only one battery be advised that at any moment the second one could go south and may or may not damage the new one. That's why some manufacturers insist on replace both batteries, besides their desire of selling you the second one.
This is a great forum you guys have here!! I have learn a ton on this 6.0L engines.