Im tring to figure the wiring for fords altenators,,,my highboy's will not charge and its got less than 100 miles on it And you can tell that some one kinda jerry rigged the wires with all the tape and wirenuts,,,,,Hell even a couple of wires that go to the voltage regulator arent even being used,,,You start the truck off the battery but as soon as you take off the positive terminal ,,,she shuts right down,,,,telling me that the truck wont run off the altnator. Could some one explain to me how the wiring should look ar maybe a diagram or two. Thanks for any help,,,,,,,Robert

 

All these wires are critical. What you really need to do is find a wiring harness off a junked truck. This harness is short and can be taken off from under the hood. Caution there are two different alternator harness. One for gages and a different one for idiot lights. They are not interchangeable. Make sure you get the correct one for your truck.

To get you going now, you need a diagram. You might try a search, like "alternator wiring",I know there have been some pictures posted in the past.

 

Thanks,,,,, Yeah I found out that there were two differeant types at the junk yard a few weeks ago,,,,,,funny thing was niether one looked like what I had and I figured If I looked at it long enough Id figure it out ha ha ha the engine that is in the truck is a 390 s code out of a early mustang and I believe that its the same alternater out of that car,,and some one tried to make it work,,,,Seems to me that it should be close,,,if not the same one,,,well thanks for your help and Ill keep looking around on here ,,to see what I can come up with. Robert

 

It's funny how every 360/390 instantly becomes an S code out of a Mustang, or magically turns into a 428 cobra jet and on and on and on.

If you indeed had an S code engine it would then have to have regular 8 bolt heads installed otherwise it wouldn't work in the truck and after that it's no different than a grocery getter found on thousands of other trucks and cars.

The alternator is no different from a Mustang to a farm truck. Same goes the regulator.

Just grab a harness that proper for your truck and go from there. When you find that harness inspect the fusible links to make sure they are still good.

Also I would recommend having the alternator tested just to make sure it is ok and something like the botched wiring didn't fry it.

Josh

 

Thanks,,,,And yes it is a s code engine Ive seen the car it came from and every thing including the fifth letter in the vin being a S and have had all casting numbers on the block and EVERYTHING checked in with Ford motor Co. and every thing is are there to a tee,,,,,the mustang was wrecked serverly and the guy I had bought the truck from had all the paper work for every thing,,,,,,,,,MAKES NO SENSE ,,,,I ASK A SIMPLE QUESTION AND I GET HARASSED ,,,SAYING SOMETIME ISNT SOMETHING,,,,,,AND PUTTING PEOPLES THINGS AS GROCERY GETTERS,,,,,COME ON DUDE GROW UP------I MIDUS WELL HAD SAID THAT IVE GOT 4000 CUBIC INCH MOTOR IN THE TRUCK,,,THEN I WOULDNT HVE TO LISTEN TO THIS CRAP,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

 

Just calling it like I see it, besides A 390 being an S code means squat. To top it off a regular truck "T" intake is worth over 35 horsepower over an "S" intake.

Casting numbers on FE blocks are meaningless BTW.

The VIN is stamped on the rear of the driver's side cylinder head, not the block.

And the icing on the cake, the alternators are the same.

The sprinkles: regulators are the same.

Josh

 

Here,
__you go.




Hope it helps.

 

1975/76 F100/350's used two different alternator wiring looms.

D4TZ14305A .. Use with Ammeter & Oil Pressure Warning Lights / Obsolete

Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park KS has ONE: 800-676-0675.

Kinsel L/M in Beaumont TX has ONE: 800-816-2894.

Ford obsolete parts vendor Green Sales Co. in Cincinnati OH has FIVE: 800-543-4959

Miller Obsolete Parts in Binghamton NY has TWO: 800-546-7278.
--------------------------------------------------------------
D4TZ14305B .. Use with Ammeter & Oil Pressure Gauges / Obsolete

Green Sales has TWO.

Wesley Obsolete Parts in Liberty KY has ONE: 606-787-5293.
-----------------------------------------------------------
These two harnesses the dealers and obsolete parts vendors have are Genuine Ford NOS (New, Old Stock) originals.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ford very rarely stamped VIN's on engine parts or any other mechanical parts, as it wasn't a requirement back then like it is today.

Numbers matching is a GM thing.

I've NEVER seen one VIN stamped on any Ford engine prior to the mid 1980's, and I've seen far more engines than most of y'all will ever see in a lifetime.

 

Thanks fellas, This will help alot!!! ha ha ha I wasnt talking about a vin # on the block,,,I was referring to the vin on the inside the car door,,,in which the engine came out of ,,,What I was tring to get out was the casting #s on the heads and such,,,,,Any how thanks for the info and diagram,,,,it should be working by this afternoon,,,,,,Robert

 

I've read that removing the positive battery cable from an older Ford while the engine is running isn't a good thing to do because it will burn up the alternator (or regulator?). Caution must be used used when jump starting also, since the dead battery can kill the alternator too when the jumper cables are removed.

It's just what I've read...



.

 

Casting numbers are worthless on engine blocks for two reasons.

1) Casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to Ford part numbers.

2) On FE 352/360/390/410/428 engines for example, the blocks were all cast as 352's, so there's no way to discover what size the engine is without tearing it down.

Yes, you can measure the stroke, but the 352/360's share the same one (3.50"), as do the 410 and 428's (3.98"). Only the 390 is different: 3.78"

The numbers on cylinder heads are not casting numbers, they are Ford engineering ID numbers, and when these numbers are translated, the head part numbers will be known.

But that usually won't tell you much of anything, because the heads were used on several different sized engines.

The 360/390 heads, for example are identical, and these heads are the same as the car 390/410 and 428 heads, with a one year exception, the 1966 428 Police Cruiser head.

Peeps here on FTE go GA-GA over casting numbers.

But...it doesn't take them too long to discover that these numbers won't tell them diddly-squat.

 

That was uncalled for. You show two CJ engines in your sig, but who's to say they aren't 360's.
Regardless, it was off topic and unneeded.

 

You start the truck off the battery but as soon as you take off the positive terminal ,,,she shuts right down,,,,telling me that the truck wont run off the altnator. . Thanks for any help,,,,,,,Robert[/quote]

In my feeble memory it seems that pulling the battery out of the circuit will kill the field to the alternator and kill the engine. Not certain, but I believe that is the case. Can't push start without a battery to excite the alternator, not enough residual field to generate in an alternator. Long, long time since I tried testing the theory. Is it possible that someone put a "one wire" alternator on it. That would explain unused wires on the regulator. The regulator is internal on that swap so you wouldn't even be be using the old regulator.

 

I do not mean to offend anybody, however it must be said.

These Diagrams are dangerosly incorrect.

On the Diagram for Gauges, it should be... the white/black wire from the stator, only goes to the electric choke, it does not connect to the regulator at all. Furthermore, the Light Green/Red wire connects to the stator on the regulator, then travels to Splice #401 where it hooks up to Circut #16 Red/Green (Hot in Run at Ignition Switch). The I terminal on the regulator is not used for trucks with gauges.

The one for idiot lights is more acurate, but the wiring from the alt warning lamp onwards is wrong.

Do not use these diagrams!

I have Factory diagrams that I will post shortly.