'79 F-250 Lift questions...
#1
'79 F-250 Lift questions...
I'm planning on lifting my '79 4x4, i would love any info from guys who have already done it.... info on anything, as i know not much about it.
I was planning on going 4", but want to know if there is much of a difference between 4" and 6"? From what i've looked into, its pretty much just blocks and new shocks right- what about leafs? Does it change any angles to where i need new drive shafts, pitman arms, etc?
Like i said, i dont know much about lifting and am open to any and all advice i can get. Thanks a ton ya'll!
I was planning on going 4", but want to know if there is much of a difference between 4" and 6"? From what i've looked into, its pretty much just blocks and new shocks right- what about leafs? Does it change any angles to where i need new drive shafts, pitman arms, etc?
Like i said, i dont know much about lifting and am open to any and all advice i can get. Thanks a ton ya'll!
#2
#3
Depending on your budget I would get a kit that has it all which would include the following:
New rear springs with u-bolts and spring bushings
New front springs with u-bolts and spring bushings
New shocks front and rear
New Pitman arm
Dont forget to install extended brake lines also from frame to axle
A 4" wont require any driveshaft changes a 6" most likely will.
The reason I say a kit with new rear springs instead of using current springs with blocks is by running arched springs you dont need the blocks and you get less axle wrap that way. Many companies make complete lifts with front and rear springs you have to specify most of the cheaper kits come only with front springs and rear blocks, Never run lift blocks in the front. Good luck and post some pics of the finished product. Other compenies that make complete systems are superlift, skyjacker, also Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells complete kits as well.
New rear springs with u-bolts and spring bushings
New front springs with u-bolts and spring bushings
New shocks front and rear
New Pitman arm
Dont forget to install extended brake lines also from frame to axle
A 4" wont require any driveshaft changes a 6" most likely will.
The reason I say a kit with new rear springs instead of using current springs with blocks is by running arched springs you dont need the blocks and you get less axle wrap that way. Many companies make complete lifts with front and rear springs you have to specify most of the cheaper kits come only with front springs and rear blocks, Never run lift blocks in the front. Good luck and post some pics of the finished product. Other compenies that make complete systems are superlift, skyjacker, also Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells complete kits as well.
#5
Yes Sky Jacker still makes a 6in lift as stated before you will have to buy a drag link and a pitmin arm. and for sure spend a little extry for rear springs. I went the cheep way and got blocks...yeah what a mistake that was now i bought the rear springs. I never had to mess with the driveshafts however i would like to tilt the front axle a bit as to straighten the front driveline out. but thats my 2 cents
#7
Trending Topics
#11
A 44 you would have to get the steering knuckle machined for a right side steering arm. Some off road co's offer exchanges on a machined knuckle.
It's been a while, but I think I got my stuff from ORU.
#12
I put a Rough Country 4" lift on my previous 78 F250 Supercab and it was pretty cut & dry. My kit came with all 4 shocks, front springs, steering block (raises the height of the draglink on the knuckle), and poly bushings. Came with rear blocks but I didn't mind 'cause I wasn't going to use the truck for trails just mudbogs and daily driving. The only problem I had was that the bushings were a little too wide but I applied a little southern ingenuity and they fit fine. I think I spent around $500 and it was worth every penny.
I wouldn't go 6" unless you wanna buy longer brake lines (or detach the mount brackets from the frame) and risk the clearance issues with your front driveshaft and the transfer case crossmember. You're also gonna end up having to upgrade your steering with a taller lift. At 4" your stock steering shouldn't be a problem unless you cut your fenders to put on massive tires lol
I wouldn't go 6" unless you wanna buy longer brake lines (or detach the mount brackets from the frame) and risk the clearance issues with your front driveshaft and the transfer case crossmember. You're also gonna end up having to upgrade your steering with a taller lift. At 4" your stock steering shouldn't be a problem unless you cut your fenders to put on massive tires lol