How To: 6.0L CCV Re-route
#53
12-15-2009 | 07:35 PM
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 26,761
Likes: 2,914
Just to document my learnings:
I have switched to a Racor ccv filter (I took out the original one I started with). The oil degraded the glue on the first filter. Also, I upgraded to 1 inch hose (instead of 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch). It does make a difference. I calculated and measured the back pressure!
Also, I installed the ccv-6000. It is large and expensive. I think that it is possibly adequate to install the next size down (ccv4500 IIRC). I installed the larger one for the potential of higher horsepower mods "down the road".
I have switched to a Racor ccv filter (I took out the original one I started with). The oil degraded the glue on the first filter. Also, I upgraded to 1 inch hose (instead of 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch). It does make a difference. I calculated and measured the back pressure!
Also, I installed the ccv-6000. It is large and expensive. I think that it is possibly adequate to install the next size down (ccv4500 IIRC). I installed the larger one for the potential of higher horsepower mods "down the road".
#54
12-15-2009 | 08:10 PM
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
From: Moyock, NC
Just to document my learnings:
I have switched to a Racor ccv filter (I took out the original one I started with). The oil degraded the glue on the first filter. Also, I upgraded to 1 inch hose (instead of 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch). It does make a difference. I calculated and measured the back pressure!
Also, I installed the ccv-6000. It is huge and expensive. I would think that it is adequate to install the next size down (ccv4500 IIRC). I installed the larger one for the potential of higher horsepower mods "down the road".
I have switched to a Racor ccv filter (I took out the original one I started with). The oil degraded the glue on the first filter. Also, I upgraded to 1 inch hose (instead of 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch). It does make a difference. I calculated and measured the back pressure!
Also, I installed the ccv-6000. It is huge and expensive. I would think that it is adequate to install the next size down (ccv4500 IIRC). I installed the larger one for the potential of higher horsepower mods "down the road".
#56
02-20-2010 | 10:33 AM
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 0
From: Anderson, SC
Disclaimer: This is how to re-route the crankcase vent to the underside of the truck instead of back into the turbo intake tube. I take no responsibility for any damage that may incur from doing this mod.
This mod is relatively simple. I decided to do another write up as the one previously written is missing photos and might be hard to follow for some people. It takes about an hour or less depending upon your mechanical ability. The hardest part is locating 1" ID (inside diameter) heater hose. NAPA auto parts and Ace Hardware should sell it.
Parts Needed:
1 - 1/2" PVC Cap
2 - 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" Pipe Clamps
1 - 30 or 60 minute Epoxy
15-25' - 1" ID Heater Hose
Tools Needed:
1 - Opened Ended 10mm Wrench
1 - Side cutters
1 - Pliers or Small Channel Locks
1 - Flat Head Screwdriver
1 - Can of Brake Cleaner or Degreaser
1 - Pack of Zip Ties
Note: Allow your engine to cool as you will be reaching around and working with some hot parts. Also make sure you can go without driving your truck for a few hours as it will take time for the epoxy to cure.
Step 1: Remove the 2 lines from the coolant degas bottle using a pair of pliers to loosen the clamps. (#1, #2)
Step 2: Unplug the MAF Sensor and Filter minder plugs. (#3, #4)
Step 3: Remove the air filter housing. (#5)
Step 4: Loosen the clamp on the turbo inlet hose (#6)
Step 5: Remove the turbo inlet hose and post filter tube. It should slide straight up and out with the coolant lines removed.
Step 6: Loosen the clamp on the plastic intake tube where the crankcase vents. (#7)
Step 7: Remove the 2 10mm nuts on the bracket that attaches the intake tube to the FICM. (#8)
Step 8: Pull the 90* elbow out of the CCV filter. (#9) It snaps into place so just give it a gentle tug.
Step 9: Remove the plastic intake tube. Don't let anything get into the turbo, so cover it with a rag. (#10)
Step 10: Take a pair of side cutters and cut off the crip clamps over the hose that enters the intake tube. Remove the angled hose. (#11)
Step 11: Clean the tube and hole where the hose entered the tube with some brake cleaner or degreaser. (#11)
Step 12: Make sure the 1/2" PVC cap is clean and remove any stickers. (#12)
Step 13: Mix up the epoxy and coat the outside of the 1/2" PVC Cap.
Step 14: Insert the cap into the hole in the intake tube. (#13)
Step 15: Take the 90* elbow and cut the crimp clamp off the short hose. Attach the 1" ID heater hose to the 90* elbow and secure with a pipe clamp. (#14) I purchased 3/4" as I was misinformed on the correct size. So I used the original short hose and stuck the 3/4" hose into the 1" short hose and secured with a hose clamp.
Step 16: Run the heater hose down the frame rail to the rear of the truck and secure with zip ties. Be mindful of where the hose ends as it will eventually spit out some oily residue. It will take at least 20' to reach the bumper of a crew cab short bed, so adjust accordingly.
Step 17: Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Step 18: Let it sit for a few hours to allow the epoxy to fully cure. I recommend leaving it overnight.
If you have any questions or comments please ask here in the thread. Thanks!
This mod is relatively simple. I decided to do another write up as the one previously written is missing photos and might be hard to follow for some people. It takes about an hour or less depending upon your mechanical ability. The hardest part is locating 1" ID (inside diameter) heater hose. NAPA auto parts and Ace Hardware should sell it.
Parts Needed:
1 - 1/2" PVC Cap
2 - 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" Pipe Clamps
1 - 30 or 60 minute Epoxy
15-25' - 1" ID Heater Hose
Tools Needed:
1 - Opened Ended 10mm Wrench
1 - Side cutters
1 - Pliers or Small Channel Locks
1 - Flat Head Screwdriver
1 - Can of Brake Cleaner or Degreaser
1 - Pack of Zip Ties
Note: Allow your engine to cool as you will be reaching around and working with some hot parts. Also make sure you can go without driving your truck for a few hours as it will take time for the epoxy to cure.
Step 1: Remove the 2 lines from the coolant degas bottle using a pair of pliers to loosen the clamps. (#1, #2)
Step 2: Unplug the MAF Sensor and Filter minder plugs. (#3, #4)
Step 3: Remove the air filter housing. (#5)
Step 4: Loosen the clamp on the turbo inlet hose (#6)
Step 5: Remove the turbo inlet hose and post filter tube. It should slide straight up and out with the coolant lines removed.
Step 6: Loosen the clamp on the plastic intake tube where the crankcase vents. (#7)
Step 7: Remove the 2 10mm nuts on the bracket that attaches the intake tube to the FICM. (#8)
Step 8: Pull the 90* elbow out of the CCV filter. (#9) It snaps into place so just give it a gentle tug.
Step 9: Remove the plastic intake tube. Don't let anything get into the turbo, so cover it with a rag. (#10)
Step 10: Take a pair of side cutters and cut off the crip clamps over the hose that enters the intake tube. Remove the angled hose. (#11)
Step 11: Clean the tube and hole where the hose entered the tube with some brake cleaner or degreaser. (#11)
Step 12: Make sure the 1/2" PVC cap is clean and remove any stickers. (#12)
Step 13: Mix up the epoxy and coat the outside of the 1/2" PVC Cap.
Step 14: Insert the cap into the hole in the intake tube. (#13)
Step 15: Take the 90* elbow and cut the crimp clamp off the short hose. Attach the 1" ID heater hose to the 90* elbow and secure with a pipe clamp. (#14) I purchased 3/4" as I was misinformed on the correct size. So I used the original short hose and stuck the 3/4" hose into the 1" short hose and secured with a hose clamp.
Step 16: Run the heater hose down the frame rail to the rear of the truck and secure with zip ties. Be mindful of where the hose ends as it will eventually spit out some oily residue. It will take at least 20' to reach the bumper of a crew cab short bed, so adjust accordingly.
Step 17: Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Step 18: Let it sit for a few hours to allow the epoxy to fully cure. I recommend leaving it overnight.
If you have any questions or comments please ask here in the thread. Thanks!
#60
06-22-2010 | 09:37 PM
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 3
From: Francestown, NH
I also can't see the pictures.
This is the mod I curently understand the least.
Something to do with getting oil excess from the crankcase away from depositing all over the engine? -- is it as simple as that?
If that's the grasp of it, is the addition of the racor filter kinda like 'kicking the mod up a notch' ... would ending the heater hose somewhere under the truck do the same thing .. or does the filter help the mod work better?
Thanks.
This is the mod I curently understand the least.
Something to do with getting oil excess from the crankcase away from depositing all over the engine? -- is it as simple as that?
If that's the grasp of it, is the addition of the racor filter kinda like 'kicking the mod up a notch' ... would ending the heater hose somewhere under the truck do the same thing .. or does the filter help the mod work better?
Thanks.