Regeared, and Detroit Locker
#18
If you measure from the flange by where the bearing sits on the carrier to the flange that the ring gear bolts to on the stocker and compare it to the detroit/true trac and adjust the shims accordingly, install and check the backlash.
#19
#20
This is not something i would want to do again, however. There's always snags and such that come up and make a difficult job nearly impossible, and letting someone else do it for a flat rate would be so much easier. Im doing it myself just to save $850, but sometimes i think that it's almost worth that in headaches to get the job done.
#21
This is not something i would want to do again, however. There's always snags and such that come up and make a difficult job nearly impossible, and letting someone else do it for a flat rate would be so much easier. Im doing it myself just to save $850, but sometimes i think that it's almost worth that in headaches to get the job done.
So are you taking your rear end sled pulling or racing first?
#22
Whew, just got the front end finished this morning. I ran into alot of problems that really slowed me up, what a pain in the ***. Doing it over again i would let someone else do it, however i feel good knowing how to do it now, and that ive saved the $850, wonder what i'll do with that now...
A little problem however, i adjusted the backlash to .007 on the rear ring and pinion, which was the minimum allowed tolerance. It's WAY too much, when you let off the pedal going down the road you have a very noticeable klunk and also when you easily get back into the power. When parking on flat ground you hit P and then the truck creeps forward a good 6-8" until the slop is taken up. Is that supposed to be like that? When i change the break-in oil at 500 miles i'll check it again, and im thinking i will shim it up to .004 or so?
A little problem however, i adjusted the backlash to .007 on the rear ring and pinion, which was the minimum allowed tolerance. It's WAY too much, when you let off the pedal going down the road you have a very noticeable klunk and also when you easily get back into the power. When parking on flat ground you hit P and then the truck creeps forward a good 6-8" until the slop is taken up. Is that supposed to be like that? When i change the break-in oil at 500 miles i'll check it again, and im thinking i will shim it up to .004 or so?
#23
#26
the more I think about it mine did seem that it had slop in it but it was just releasing its self and some times it would pop loud in a turn,would sound like it snaped a axle.
#27
A little problem however, i adjusted the backlash to .007 on the rear ring and pinion, which was the minimum allowed tolerance. It's WAY too much, when you let off the pedal going down the road you have a very noticeable klunk and also when you easily get back into the power. When parking on flat ground you hit P and then the truck creeps forward a good 6-8" until the slop is taken up. Is that supposed to be like that? When i change the break-in oil at 500 miles i'll check it again, and im thinking i will shim it up to .004 or so?
#28
This is something to also look out for, for me, it happens about once amonth, and when it happens the first couple times, your going to about ***** yourself, and wonder what you broke. Sometimes it even happens at a dead stop. It will sound like a snapped axleshaft. Have no fear, a press on the pedal makes you still go. Its just the detroit unloading.
#30
This is something to also look out for, for me, it happens about once amonth, and when it happens the first couple times, your going to about ***** yourself, and wonder what you broke. Sometimes it even happens at a dead stop. It will sound like a snapped axleshaft. Have no fear, a press on the pedal makes you still go. Its just the detroit unloading.