It's been a few years since I have changed a distributor in a vehicle,I need a refresher course and maybe some suggestions to make the job easier. This is for my 1995 f150 with the 5.0. Here is what I plan to do: turn the engine over by hand until the #1 piston comes up on the compression stroke,take it to TDC,then check the position of the pointer on the harmonic balancer,Mark where the rotor lines up on the block(should be pointing at the #1 cylinder,or is it the #1 cylinder on the distributor cap?). any other pointers that are vehicle specific would be helpful!! thanks,Ben

 

If you're just going to replace the distributor you can use this method.

Mark the position of the base of the distributor to a fixed object on the engine.
Mark the position of the rotor to the base of the distributor.

Pull the old distributor out.
Install the new distributor.

Note: When you pull the old distributor out, because of the cut of the distributor gear the oil pump shaft turns a little. So when you reinstall the new distributor the rotor usually won't line up in the original position once the distributor is seated.

To compensate for that, before you install the new distributor, use a large flat bladed screwdriver and flashlight. Look down into the hole for the distributor and turn the oil pump drive shaft a small amount until you can reinstall the distributor and get the rotor to line up in its original position. It's just trial and error.

If you remove the original distributor and for some reason the engine is rotated from its original position you can rotate the engine until the number one cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (line on the damper lined up with zero mark on the timing tab) and reinstall the distributor with the rotor under the number one plug wire of the distributor cap. Remove the spout connector, start the engine and use a timing light to set the timing.

 

I am not disagreeing with you,but what purpose would it serve to mark the base of the distributor if I am taking it out anyhow? the mark on the distributor won't do much good after I take the dizzy out,will it?

 

If your putting in a new distributor immediately after removing the old one, try this. Remove and pull back on the cap and wires.Take a piece of masking tape and afix it across the top edge of the spark plug wire cap mounting ring which will be reinstalled on the new distributor. Put the tape on the cap across from where the rotor is pointing. Mark the exact position of the center of the rotor (the brass end that transfers the spark) on the tape with a sharpie marker. Pull the distributor and watch the way the rotor rotates away from the mark. Transfer the cap mounting base to the new distributor (it can only go on one way), reinstall the rotor and set its position to about where it moved when you pulled the old distributor. Install the new distributor. The rotor has to move directly in line with the mark on the cap base. If it's off, pull the distributor up slightly, rotate the rotor one tooth on the cam and reinstall again. Continue this process until the mark is right on. Start the engine and set the final timing with a light.

I've had to put in three distributors in my truck over the past year. I done all of them using this technique and haven't had any problems. Obviously don't move the engine position until you are all done. Shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes.

 

You mark the position of the base of the old distributor to a fixed object in the engine compartment.

When you install the new one you can use that mark as a reference. Transfer that mark to the base of the new distributor.

You also need to mark the position of the rotor to the base of the distributor. This method will allow you to replace the distributor without rotating the engine to TDC. Also the timing should be very close with out using a timing light.

If you don't use this method you'll have to use the method of rotating the engine until it's at TDC on the compression stroke. Line up the timing marks, install the distributor with the rotor pointing under plug number one under the distributor cap then use a timing light to set the timing.

 

Inside your 95's distributor is a cup with slots in it - each tab triggers the PIP sensor. One tab is smaller than the others so the EEC knows which cylinder is firing.

Rotate the engine's main pulley with a breaker bar until the small tab lines up with the sensor.

Remove dizzy, install new dizzy, with small tab on cup facing the pip sensor.

Once installed, you'll notice that the cup rotated slightly due to the angled cam gears meshing. Rotate new dizzy housing until small tab lines back up with the PIP sensor.

Clamp, install cap and rotor.

See, easy. No marks, no triangulation, no straight edges, string, or other sillyness.