I realize you're just getting started on this, but I have a question about the trailer plumbing.

I have a 1991 Wilderness 24M. The water line connection under the bathroom sink is leaking. I noticed the rubber seal is misshaped. The plastic hose is too short to reach the connector when routed above the drain pipe, so the installer rerouted the hose under the drain pipe and that caused excessive pressure on the connector.

My question is:
Can I replace the clamps with an automotive-type screw-down hose clamp after replacing the short-length plastic hose with a longer-length plastic hose?

 

Good Question and Greywolf will be glad to answer that one...

 

what color is this hose? If it is what I think it is, Just go to ACE and get a longer one.

 

NO.

That's the bad news, here's the good news:

PEX tubing (which is designed to expand and return to it's original size if water in it freezes, so that it won't burst) AND the fittings (which are unbelieveably easy to work with) AND the rubber seals, AND EVEN a wrench to fit the collars on the fittings can be bought at most any hardware store for a lot less than at an RV dealer.

Guess where RV service departments go to get their own fittings? I'll give you a short and incomplete list:

ACE
LOWES
HOME DESPOT
Russell's
Hubbards
Etc...

Compression fittings for PEX tubing will hold pressure far better than ordinary hose, and won't be a problem later. They also will not allow AIR to leak INTO the lines - causing low pressure problems.

If you're going to do it - how should you do it? The stuff is only pennies per inch or foot anyhow.


**I'm assuming that what you see under there looks like a somewhat hard translucent plastic tubing, about 3/4 inch in thickness. Harder than a garden hose, but not as hard as white plastic/PVC water line. Yes?
***It may also be color coded blue or red, but still be the same stuff.

 

The hose color is bluish-gray and is not very flexible. Brass elbows were used whenever a bend was needed. The collars, I'm guessing, are the brass bands around the 90* elbow and the connector. I was told, by the RV dealers, that a "special" tool was needed to fasten the brass bands.

AutoZone (auto parts store) doesn't have this tool in their rental program, so I figured it was some special RV-only type of tool. I assume the tool needed to fasten the brass bands is also the tool needed to unfasten the brass bands. Is that assumption correct?

I wasn't able to get any manuals with this trailer, (Wolfie - this is the one I had the questions about the 7-way plug and the microwave that my mom in California bought us for our anniversary), other than the main one that continually refers to the Owner's Package that is given when the trailer was purchased new.

The Wilderness RV dealer isn't able to get them for me either.

Anyway...since there is a leak at the connector, I think I may have to cut a piece of the hose with the connector attached and take it to Lowe's.

I don't mean to hijack this thread. I just wanted clarification on what I should and should not use to make repairs on my trailer.

 

Hello there and welcome and your not hijacking this thread at all and that is what we are here for even though I can get 2 minutes to take pics of my trailer and get that project going..But one Major Problem we have got to much snow right now...LOL Enjoy the thread and any input is great and ask anything..

 

I pray to God you winterized it effectively!

 

Go with PEX tubing (AND FITTINGS) from the point where you cut it, use a splice to put the new section in, and run extra line with compression fittings.

BANDED "PEX" is something used at factories that we replace with compression fittings when doing repairs because in the final analysis - banded fittings ALWAYS fail. Even if you could get the tool for the bands - it just IS NOT worth it. Compression fittings work much better, are repairable, and last much longer with a higher reliability rate.

The brass fittings I wonder about, but the rest is familiar. You should be able to run PEX line.

Be careful not to twist any of the up or downline fittings, one twist can open a leak on them.

They are a shortcut used in many factories.

I was pleased to note today that a challenger RV I was working on uses nothing BUT compression fittings.

 

I did discover that the Plumbing is not what it is cracked up to be and might have to redo 60% of it...

 

Umm.

That could be bad.


-I'll get you through it!

Winterise what you can, and get back to me on that.

 

I have to call Skyline back and find out where my manual is...I wonder if they forgot?

 

Never hurts to follow up, most places are in a cold season slow-down, the holidays also affect it. Some RV places shut down for it.

 

I did winterize to the best we could..I think we have to just replace a few lines

 

If they are PEX lines - it should be easy to find any breaks.

The lines and fittings hold. The appliances at the end (faucets) are what have trouble. We'll know when it warms up.

 

I didn't get to winterize my trailer, due to the leak. Before I parked her, I drained all the tanks, disconnected the water line with the leak, and opened all the faucets.

My big concern is the water heater. I don't know how to drain it and overnight temps have been below freezing for about two months.

I guess I'll find out when it warms up. It looks like I need to replace the converter anyway. Shore-power side works great, plugged in or with a generator. With a fully charged battery, not plugged in and no generator, I'm lucky to get the lights working during the evening. About the only thing working is the radio, and only when it's sunny out. I think the solar panel may be wired in incorrectly. That's on the list to check when I have the converter replaced.