Trouble Removing Turbo
#1
09-30-2007 | 01:10 PM
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 26
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From: Texas
Trouble Removing Turbo
Well, I'm stuck. All of the research I've done on this site has indicated that my ICP sensor is bad. So, I decided to check it myself. I have a '03 F-250, where the ICP is located under/behind the turbo. It has been a battle from the start getting the turbo off. With the search feature being down on this site, I haven't been able to find any good instructions or tips to help me remove it. Two hours searching google hasn't gotten me anywhere either. I know there has to be an article SOMEWHERE on the web detailing this. I've made it as far as disconnecting everything and removing the mounting bolts from the turbo, and I found the ones on the front right, front left, the one hidden on the back side on the right (looking at the turbo from the front of the truck), but the thing still wont budge. Does anybody know the locations of any other mounting bolts ? Or any other helpful advice at this point of dissasembly ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm about ready to put it back together and limp it back to the dealership. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by bwl; 09-30-2007 at 01:14 PM.
#2
09-30-2007 | 01:19 PM
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 28
From: AB/BC
Access it (ICP)from under the truck.There is a heat shield in the way that needs to be removed 3 bolts 1-13mm 2-10mm if I remember correctly.Its not easy access but way easier than re-re turbo.The pictures in the 6.0 bible will help with the brail work.Good luck-Prepare yourself for some colourfull language.Its a good hours work Ide guess.
#6
09-30-2007 | 03:25 PM
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,874
Likes: 77
From: Wake Forest, NC
the last one did, i unbolted the coolant bottle and pushed it aside. Remove the FICM. Completely loosened the uppipe to turbo clamp. Using a combination of extensions and swivels I was able to remove it.
That should be it for the mounting bolts on the turbo though. The two v-band clamps on the up and down pipe. Probably just stuck in the pedestal. I would use a rubber mallet and give it a whack if you were to remove it.
That should be it for the mounting bolts on the turbo though. The two v-band clamps on the up and down pipe. Probably just stuck in the pedestal. I would use a rubber mallet and give it a whack if you were to remove it.
Last edited by aldridgec; 09-30-2007 at 03:28 PM.
#7
09-30-2007 | 07:16 PM
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 10
From: Pottstown Pa
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#8
09-30-2007 | 11:33 PM
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 26
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From: Texas
I found the mystery bolt in the instructions that Mark sent. You're correct Diesel Dave, it's the one located underneath. I didnt see anything about removing the downpipe, so I'm going to leave that alone for now. I decided not to try and access it from the rear because I'd have to remove the front driveshaft to reach it, and it apears that I'm only one bolt away from removing it. I appreciate the help guys.
#9
10-03-2007 | 11:43 AM
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From: Texas
Well, I got that *@%$^ fixed. It turned out that I didn't have the bolt underneath the turbo. That was on later models. I changed the ICP sensor and since I had gone that far, changed the pigtail. Mine was saturated with oil, and I was just going to clean it out with contact cleaner, but I didn't want to risk having to start this process over because of a bad pigtail. This fix took care of my problems. For those who want to do this themselves, this is what I did:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the degas bottle
3. Remove the intake duct. I removed everything from the air filter to the turbo to make it easier.
4. Disconnect the intercooler intake pipe. I took mine completely out because it was in my way and I was tearing up the fiberglass insulation by laying on it.
5. Remove the pushpins from the plastic cowling above the turbo, release the wiring harnes retainers, and wedge it under the rear of the hood to get it out of the way.
6. Unplug the wire from the turbo.
7. Revove the oil supply line.
8. Remove the wire clip from the turbo.
9. Remove the marmon clamps from the intake and discharge ends of the turbo. These were stuck on mine, and I had to remove the bolt from the clamp and pop the clamp off with a screwdriver. Then I was able to expand them enough to push them back and out of the way.
10. Lift the downpipe up and push it back. It has a tab on the top that hooks over the flange on the turbo.
11. Push the intake pipe back to break it loose. This is where I made a BIG mistake. Once I had everything loose, I couldn't get the turbo to budge. I thought the intake pipe (y-pipe) was causing this, so I removed the bolts underneath so it would be loose, as well as the clamp in the rear. The bolts that connect the left (driver's side) pipe to the header are an extreme pain to get to and even worse to get back on. I replaced them with new hardware, but I hope I never have to touch those again.
12. Remove the 10mm turbo mounting bolts. On mine, there were 2 in the front and one in the rear, on the right side looking a the turbo from the front. On some models, there is a bolt on the bottom left under the downpipe.
13. Lift on the turbo from the left, then the right, and work it loose. Be prepared, because it doesnt come out easily. Once you get it loose, lift it up to slide it off of the oil drain tube. Work it out towards the front and to the left.
14. The ICP sensor sits in the rear, pointing toward the driver's side, and is by the heat shield. Unplug the sensor. I used a stubby crescent wrench to remove it. A 27mm or 1 1/16" stubby works too if you have one. You'll just have to do it by feel. I never saw mine until I got it off.
15. When you reinstall everything, make sure you put new o-rings on the drain tube. Pour some oil into the hole where the oil supply line connects, and spin the turbo to coat the bearings.
16. When you replace the marmon clamps on the turbo inlet and outlet, position them wher you can see the gap between the flanges. I thought I had mine tight enough, but when I started it, exhaust started leaking around the inlet. Shine a flashlight on the gap and make sure the gap closes as you tighten it.
17. If you removed the intercooler tube, make sure you degrease the ends and the boots before you reassemble them.
Keep in mind that my truck is an '03. The ICP sensor was later moved to the left valve cover (probably because of death threats to the designer). This was my first major repair on a diesel, so it was a trial by fire for me. I'm not a mechanic, but I do most of my own repairs if they don't require expensive special tools or equipment. Hopefully this will help others in my situation.
Here are the part #'s I used:
5C3Z-12224-A Pigtail
3C3Z-9F838-EA ICP Sensor
W300012 O-Rings for oil drain tube (2 req)
Good luck !
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the degas bottle
3. Remove the intake duct. I removed everything from the air filter to the turbo to make it easier.
4. Disconnect the intercooler intake pipe. I took mine completely out because it was in my way and I was tearing up the fiberglass insulation by laying on it.
5. Remove the pushpins from the plastic cowling above the turbo, release the wiring harnes retainers, and wedge it under the rear of the hood to get it out of the way.
6. Unplug the wire from the turbo.
7. Revove the oil supply line.
8. Remove the wire clip from the turbo.
9. Remove the marmon clamps from the intake and discharge ends of the turbo. These were stuck on mine, and I had to remove the bolt from the clamp and pop the clamp off with a screwdriver. Then I was able to expand them enough to push them back and out of the way.
10. Lift the downpipe up and push it back. It has a tab on the top that hooks over the flange on the turbo.
11. Push the intake pipe back to break it loose. This is where I made a BIG mistake. Once I had everything loose, I couldn't get the turbo to budge. I thought the intake pipe (y-pipe) was causing this, so I removed the bolts underneath so it would be loose, as well as the clamp in the rear. The bolts that connect the left (driver's side) pipe to the header are an extreme pain to get to and even worse to get back on. I replaced them with new hardware, but I hope I never have to touch those again.
12. Remove the 10mm turbo mounting bolts. On mine, there were 2 in the front and one in the rear, on the right side looking a the turbo from the front. On some models, there is a bolt on the bottom left under the downpipe.
13. Lift on the turbo from the left, then the right, and work it loose. Be prepared, because it doesnt come out easily. Once you get it loose, lift it up to slide it off of the oil drain tube. Work it out towards the front and to the left.
14. The ICP sensor sits in the rear, pointing toward the driver's side, and is by the heat shield. Unplug the sensor. I used a stubby crescent wrench to remove it. A 27mm or 1 1/16" stubby works too if you have one. You'll just have to do it by feel. I never saw mine until I got it off.
15. When you reinstall everything, make sure you put new o-rings on the drain tube. Pour some oil into the hole where the oil supply line connects, and spin the turbo to coat the bearings.
16. When you replace the marmon clamps on the turbo inlet and outlet, position them wher you can see the gap between the flanges. I thought I had mine tight enough, but when I started it, exhaust started leaking around the inlet. Shine a flashlight on the gap and make sure the gap closes as you tighten it.
17. If you removed the intercooler tube, make sure you degrease the ends and the boots before you reassemble them.
Keep in mind that my truck is an '03. The ICP sensor was later moved to the left valve cover (probably because of death threats to the designer). This was my first major repair on a diesel, so it was a trial by fire for me. I'm not a mechanic, but I do most of my own repairs if they don't require expensive special tools or equipment. Hopefully this will help others in my situation.
Here are the part #'s I used:
5C3Z-12224-A Pigtail
3C3Z-9F838-EA ICP Sensor
W300012 O-Rings for oil drain tube (2 req)
Good luck !