Fs-2500 Oil Bypass Filter
#17
i would like to go longer but i always get worried about it doing damage to the engine if you let oil go even with filtration for 7-10k miles. maybe synthetics, but not regular oil.
if the 6.0 shears so badly, what is the average that guys are going between changes using non-sythetic oils.
if i could go 6 or 7k miles, i'd save some money in the long run in both stock filters and the oilguard bypass filter.
if the 6.0 shears so badly, what is the average that guys are going between changes using non-sythetic oils.
if i could go 6 or 7k miles, i'd save some money in the long run in both stock filters and the oilguard bypass filter.
#18
#19
Originally Posted by dapgar
so the addition of a bypass system is really not worth the 4-500 bucks to put on, if you are the type of person who changes every 3-5k anyways?
i am over maintain my vehicles. i just changed my fuel filters at 5k miles and plan on doing them again at 10k or so. it's cheap insurance. on my 7.3. i have run rotella 1540 since day one and have changed the oil in that every 3k miles since day one also, and it runs like a champ and never uses a drop of oil and never leaks.
so i am not sure i really need a oilguard or fs2500 system on my truck if i still plan on changing my oil every 3-4k miles.
what do you guys think? is it worth it or not?
i am over maintain my vehicles. i just changed my fuel filters at 5k miles and plan on doing them again at 10k or so. it's cheap insurance. on my 7.3. i have run rotella 1540 since day one and have changed the oil in that every 3k miles since day one also, and it runs like a champ and never uses a drop of oil and never leaks.
so i am not sure i really need a oilguard or fs2500 system on my truck if i still plan on changing my oil every 3-4k miles.
what do you guys think? is it worth it or not?
#21
thanks for the replies. it may be something i install and then go 6 or 7k in between changes. i want to put synthetic in eventually but not until maybe 15-20k are on the truck to make sure it's all broken in.
how often do you guys do oil samples. i have never in my life until i got on this site heard of anyone sending out oil samples on a regular basis. i have run a lot of oil in my 7.3L , change it every 3k. that truck is awesome, no drips, no burning, never have to add, and it runs great. i've never had the oil tested in it. is there something with the 6.0L that requires us to test more than with previous engines?
how often do you guys do oil samples. i have never in my life until i got on this site heard of anyone sending out oil samples on a regular basis. i have run a lot of oil in my 7.3L , change it every 3k. that truck is awesome, no drips, no burning, never have to add, and it runs great. i've never had the oil tested in it. is there something with the 6.0L that requires us to test more than with previous engines?
#22
nope just alot of **** people if you go over and read the 7.3 forum they talk about the same thing...the only thing i see the test being any good for is to tell you if you can run your oil longer other wise when they tell you about all the metal you have in your oil you'll worry your self to death over something you cant do anything about...just my .02
#23
Yes, I Agree If One Does Over Maintenance A Vehicle That Would Be Alright. But With Myet Schedule As A Service Member, I Dont Have That Luxury. I Have Deployed 3 Times Tothe Desert And Its Hard To Expect My Wife To Try To Maintain My Vechicles Never The Less Hers. Each Time I Go Away To The Sand Box, I Am Away For Little Over A Year And I Am Able To Get My Wife To At Least Start And Run Her Alittle Now And Then It Just Allows Me To Go Alittle Further Between Services And Not Cheap By Anymeans, But I Have Heard And Read Nothing But Good Stuff. I Am Very Much Like You In The Sense That I Hate Spending Money On Needles ****. It Would Give Me A Piece Of Mind.
#24
Well How Do You Know If You Or Anyone You Know Have Not Used It Yet, Every Company Sells Hype For Their Products And If They Didnt I Probably Wouldnt Give Them A Second Look. I Am Due To Install Mine Soon Since I Have Already Ordered It. I Will Use It And Give You An Honest Opinion Of The Product, If It Sucks *** I Will Let You Know As Well, But If It Works I Will Highly Recommend It.
#25
Originally Posted by birddogs462
How difficult was it to install that. I am thinking about doing that myself.
#26
I got my Frantz system for $175 (www.wefilterit.com). It filters the best out of all other options, 1/10 micron. Much better than FS2500, Oilguard, Amsoil, Racor. And the replacement filter media is dirt cheap (22 cents?). TP is 4.5 inches of filltration depth!
I'm very happy with the workmanship and build quality. It filters great! But I still do not extend my drain intervals.
I'm very happy with the workmanship and build quality. It filters great! But I still do not extend my drain intervals.
#27
I have a FS2500. I have had one for over a year now on my 06 F350. I HIGHLY DOUBT that anybody at Filtration Solutions told anybody that their filter would keep their oil "HONEY COLORED" for 20K miles! To my knowledge, you cannot find that on their website either. IF you THINK they told you that, you are simply mistaken. When I bought mine, they never told me that and I am sure that he said the oil WOULD turn black as that is normal and CANNOT be stopped, which is true and I already knew. IF they had said otherwise I would have been skeptical. There could be exceptions of course, but there is going to be a certain amount of contamination. Perhaps you are confusing the testimonials with what they told you. Their demo is just that, a DEMO. They are using HYDRALIC fluid in the test specifically because of its color and properties. The important thing to remember about the FS2500 is that it is backed by independant testing by a third party lab that proves its capabilities. To my knowledge, none of the others are. Why not? Who cares. Use what you are comfortable with and willing to spend. The FS2500 is built like a tank, I like that. My last unit (different brand) on my old truck was mounted outside of the frame rail and took a shot from a rock kicked up by the front tire. The bypass filter had a dent in it. IF it had cracked, I would have been screwed BIG TIME. I would not have been able to get my hands on another filter in Podunk USA and would have no way to stop the bleeding and limp away.
Yes, the oil does shear down. Some more than others. BUT THE OIL SHEARS IN AS LITTLE AS 3600 MILES, IF NOT SOONER! IF you are concerned about shearing, and I see no legit reason to be, you had better be changing it sooner that 5K. Even towing in hot weather is not a big deal and if you got more than 3600 miles on your oil its already a 30wt, so are you going to change it before you tow? Probably not. So quit worring about it and move on. I personally go 10K with no problems on my oil. Samples are done regularly. Some day I will post those too. Getting married and other things that take precedance. Keep in mind that ALL companies use marketing practices that someone could take exception to, if so inclined. I am not aware of any altruistic companies out there that don't care about the bottom line at all. If the company don't make money, it don't exist, not for very long anyways, especially without a deep pocket or two.
Yes. These things are overkill for the average engine. I am **** about my mechanical equipment. Most people don't need one. Most people don't need testing either. Most people will get rid of the vehicle before its used up anyway and so would not benefit from the expense, work, and effort put into a bypass filter or testing. Come on, testing is really not getting the bulk of the average joes out there anything but a bunch of numbers that need to be interepted. Its a tool. When used by those that know how to use it and interept it, it can be useful, especially when I intend to get over 200K out of my truck.
To each his own. If you want one, get it. Buy what you can afford to spend. Perhaps whatever "looks" nice. Don't forget to compare what the ongoing costs are. The FS2500 costs about $26 for a filter, believe me, that hurts. The Oil Guard unit, I think, is about $12. Less than half for each change, that adds up.
Forgot what else.
Yes, the oil does shear down. Some more than others. BUT THE OIL SHEARS IN AS LITTLE AS 3600 MILES, IF NOT SOONER! IF you are concerned about shearing, and I see no legit reason to be, you had better be changing it sooner that 5K. Even towing in hot weather is not a big deal and if you got more than 3600 miles on your oil its already a 30wt, so are you going to change it before you tow? Probably not. So quit worring about it and move on. I personally go 10K with no problems on my oil. Samples are done regularly. Some day I will post those too. Getting married and other things that take precedance. Keep in mind that ALL companies use marketing practices that someone could take exception to, if so inclined. I am not aware of any altruistic companies out there that don't care about the bottom line at all. If the company don't make money, it don't exist, not for very long anyways, especially without a deep pocket or two.
Yes. These things are overkill for the average engine. I am **** about my mechanical equipment. Most people don't need one. Most people don't need testing either. Most people will get rid of the vehicle before its used up anyway and so would not benefit from the expense, work, and effort put into a bypass filter or testing. Come on, testing is really not getting the bulk of the average joes out there anything but a bunch of numbers that need to be interepted. Its a tool. When used by those that know how to use it and interept it, it can be useful, especially when I intend to get over 200K out of my truck.
To each his own. If you want one, get it. Buy what you can afford to spend. Perhaps whatever "looks" nice. Don't forget to compare what the ongoing costs are. The FS2500 costs about $26 for a filter, believe me, that hurts. The Oil Guard unit, I think, is about $12. Less than half for each change, that adds up.
Forgot what else.
#28
Keep in mind when using a bypass filter that your OA results are NOT going to change much. Those numbers are PPM, that tells you nothing about size only quanity. Blackstone Labs measures soot INDIRECTLY. A real fuel soot test costs more to do. I have talked to Blackstone about this. IF you are using regular OCI's, it really is not a concern for you. Nothing wrong with Blackstone either, just stating how they do it. Putting a sample in a centrifuge to spin out the solids is relatively cheap. The same thing applies to TBN numbers. Most don't need to know anyway. It keeps the overall test more cost effective for the average guy who just wants to "see" inside his engine. I have no doubt that they laugh themselves silly about us geeks that test our pickup oil instead of just changing it and forgeting it then trading the thing in anyway about 100K or 5-7 years, whichever comes first. Typical. OH Well. Do what you want to and be happy.
#30
Originally Posted by pstrang
I got my Frantz system for $175 (www.wefilterit.com). It filters the best out of all other options, 1/10 micron. Much better than FS2500, Oilguard, Amsoil, Racor. And the replacement filter media is dirt cheap (22 cents?). TP is 4.5 inches of filltration depth!
I'm very happy with the workmanship and build quality. It filters great! But I still do not extend my drain intervals.
I'm very happy with the workmanship and build quality. It filters great! But I still do not extend my drain intervals.
the system i'm leaning the most towards is the oilguard system, inside the frame if i can find room, so to avoid stone hits. the fs2500 is a nice one too about the same initial cost.
scafes, good posts, you are telling it like it is and i too think that the guys at blackstone and other places might laught at guys sending in samples all the time for their pickups when they should just be changing it every 5k and run it. to each their own though.
has anyone put ball valves on the input and outlet side oft he filter housing, so you can unscrew it and not lose much oil i know it only works with the engine is running with pressure, but there has to be extra oil in the lines at all times when you shut it down. so it would drain less and be a cleaner job if you can just shut it off before you unscrew the housing? is this a good idea or just a waste?