Thanks, 5Star! That's exactly the kind of detail I was wondering about, and it answers all the operational questions I had. I'll definitely look into upgrading to an OD someday. That 15mph gain to comfortably sit at around 60 mph vice 45 mph is just what I'm looking for.

Curious, does anybody know if the OD was a stock option for trucks? Or is just a favorite mod? Was there an "OD" chrome bezel to mount the cable on the dash?

 

In answer to your question about these trucks commimg with O/D transmissions, the answer is yes. My 53 came from the factory with the O/D and 4.10-1 rear, with 239 Flatty.

This was an optional setup and was fairly rare, the rare one was the automatic.

Also for your question on the clip to hold the cable to the dash, it was to the left of the steering column, and located at the bottom of the dash.

Once again when the O/D is engaged the cable is pushed in. When its out the O/D is non functional, you just have your regular gears.

Also just to recap an earlier reply do not pull the cable out while the vehicle is moving.

 

My 1960 Truck came with a 223 and O/D....

 

Back in the day when these were current, we would shift into and out of overdrive at will. You would shove the cable in and let off the gas, the tranny would shift into od. When you wanted to disable the overdrive, you floored the gas, and the tranny would shift into direct. Keeping the gas floored so that the tranny stayed in direct, we would pull the cable out. This would keep the tranny from shifting back into overdrive.

So - we never stopped to disengage overdrive - - -

On Edit -- -
My 59 drivers guide says:

"To use the full braking effect of the engine when driving downhill, Overdrive must be "locked out." When the truck is moving, "kick down" to third gear, pull out the OVERDRIVE control handle, and then let up on the accelerator pedal. If the truck is stopped, just pull the handle out."

That is what Henry said in 1959.

I have owned a 53, a 57, a 62, and a 64 car with this tranny, I also owned a 63 F100 with it - and I don't remember any of them working any different than I just discribed.

 

Bear in mind it's been years since I've driven Old Horse but that is my recollection, as well. I also recall downshifting and locking out the OD once I hit 2nd. FWIW, after all this time.

 

***** B

Your right on that one, can't argue there. The point that I was trying to make was that someone who is not familiar with the O/D transmission, should at first learn how it operates before experimenting with it and find out the costly way. As you probably well know those sun gears are very expensive to replace as well as some of the other components, that connect with it.

The O/D transmission is a nice option but if it goes down, due to improper use and or maintenance, look out. You might just as well have put in a 9 inch.

Again once your onto it then yes, that method you mentioned does work. Sorry for any misleads, as non were intended just trying to guide someone in the primary use of these.

 

I'd probably go with a different rear end if the truck wasn't such a family heirloom, but because it's been in the family since new, I'm pretty weird about trying to keep as much of the original stuff on it as possible.

Plus that full floating Dana 60 is such a classic/great/strong truck rear end. I just learned that many classic Mopar muscle cars from the late 60's had versions of the Dana 60 on them for the high strength.

If I can't go 70 mph, I'll just have to get on the road a bit earlier...

 

You '53 - on guys have it easy. The crossmember on the Bonus Built's won't clear an OD -- I don't doubt that's why they went to the bellhousing rear supports. Or maybe it was so you don't have to remove your seat and take up the floor mats to get your dripping, greasy tranny out thru the cab. Just one of those endearing things that makes BB's so much more fun!

 

The Borg-Warner Overdrive is a planetary gear system operated electrically via a solenoid. It can be locked out via a cable, which when locked out is pulled out. There is a governor which actuates at about 28-30 miles an hour and engages the solenoid. Going into overdrive is done by letting off the throttle to disengage the power. Before the overdrive shifts in, it is in freewheeling mode. When shifted in you have engine compression. It is a .7 reduction. Kickdown is done by flooring the gas pedal which actuates a switch which deactivates the solenoid and it shifts down immediately under power. At this point it can be locked out, if desired. otherwise you accelerate, and when you back off, it shifts back to overdrive. The electrical parts are: Solenoid, governor, relay, kickdown switch. When the overdrive is locked out, you have a totally normal three on the tree with no freewheeling. When the cable is pushed in, you have no engine compression until you go over 28 mph and then back off to let it shift. The overdrive can work in any gear. The freewheeling feature is necessary to allow reversing, as if the overdrive was engaged by wiring it to engage without the governor, you could not reverse. This is because the planetary gears are held by a ball/ramp sprag.

It is a nice design with good strength and reliability. It is a little light for an F-250 if it were being used for towing a heavy trailer. It is plenty strong for an F-100. If an F-250 were used with a stock type engine through 1960 it would be plenty strong whether or not the engine were modified or not. Since kickdown is done at full throttle, there is no way to cushion the driveline shock.

Regards,

Alanco

 

The "late models" (57-on) were available with a heavier-duty OD, casting code -11 vs -10 as I recall, that is substantially stronger. I believe that was what F-250's came with.

 

There is one more slight thing that the electrical system does in the overdrive. When you kick down the OD, the ignition is shorted out removing power from the OD until the solenoid drops. This is done by a wire to the points side of the coil. The short out wire is run to a terminal on the relay. If using an aftermarket ignition like an MSD, this function must be wired up as kickdown cannot occur without a quick release of power caused by ignition disable. It is extremely quick and most people could never sense it. It is only as long as it takes the solenoid to drop out. Power is then reapplied for the acceleration needed by the kickdown.


Regards,

Alanco

 

I had one stock in a full sized car - a 390 with a 4bbl. Never gave it a thought - must have put 30k miles on the car and had no problems. I could hold almost anybody through first and second, and when they went to third I would use second and overdrive and wax their tails. . . .

Ford had a 406 with two 4bbls, and dodge had a 413 cross ram that could take me on the open road, but around town I could win the race between the stoplights.

 

That was the HD version of the 3 speed tranny that came out in '57. The OD isn't any stronger, just the tranny. Like I saie before, the tranny OD combo is a bit less strong than the capability of the F-250 with a big FE which would be used to tow a heavy trailer. By a big FE I mean a 390, 406 or 427 or 428. No way the OD should be used with the torque of those engines if towing a heavy (3000 lb plus) trailer............

An additional problem of a later than '56 transmission case in a 53-56 is that the transmission case is missing the clutch shaft support bolt bosses.... 57 through 60 trucks had suspended pedals.

Regards,

Alanco

 

Alanco,

Thanks for the masterly description (as usual)! That does set my mind at rest about one thing that I recall: I could have SWORN I've 'gone over' in second gear and, from what you said, I probably actually did. I hesitated to mention it because no one else did but I was sure my OD would shift in any forward gear.

Thanks again.

 

Nuthin,

If you read Clint's post (WillyB) he related as how he used to race guys in a Galaxy with a 390 and beat them in second OD. You can also wire one with a switch that bypasses the governor switch and start in OD. You do have to remember to turn off the switch to back up.

Alanco