Dang that's HOT! It's a DRY HEAT HUH? I get asked the opposite about living in almost liquid air(humidity) of Louisiana. The only place hotter/humid is Vietnam. I remember being in Vegas last July and it was 104F. When the wind blew it was like someone held a blow dryer in your face.

 

Get out of that chopper more often and into a few compressor buildings offshore and you'll see hot!! Ryan

 

Funny you say that...I made that mistake the other day running an EE out for a turbine problem. I feel for those guys that have to work in there. The heat killed his laptop in 15 minutes. Good thing he had a backup or it would have been an expensive trip for Solar.

 

I agree, an easy Mod. Did it in 20 min w/ a dremel tool. We'll see how effective it is now that we have open air. I also don't think H2O is problem as with the stock it i the Blue fiber and w/ Airaid it is an oil soaked filter so H2O shouldn't be an issue as to penetration through them.

 

I can suck water through an oil soaked rag all day long.

 

ahhhhhh... grasshopper! the cooler the air the more dense....so therfore better combustion. or complete combustion... you have enlightened me! makes sense. if you start with cooler more dense air,,,the better the turbo does at compressing it. i would have to say that this mod is worth it. might cause more filter clogging but thats a trade off you would have to decide

 

Laredo7mma...You have some talent! Unless you are a female in the "Business" you might want to rephrase that!

Sorry...Couldn't resist!

 

As technical as alot of this crap is, it still comes down to this. A reciprocating engine is a big pump. The more it can get in and out and the faster it can get it in and out the more power it will make. Without getting into crap I know nothing about, volumetric effenicy, velocity, and the like (barely made it through high school) The easier you make it for the turbo to get 100% cylinder fill, the closer you get to achieving a stoichometric condition, or "perfect combustion" which only happens at Sea Level and zero % humidity. This is where horsepower, bmep, torque, and BHP per btu all meet and are all judged from. Ford could care less about any of the above as long as it meets EPA emission standards. The true measure of performance is how much horsepower you are getting per measured unit of energy. After all of that the easier you let your turbo work, or the quicker you can make it react the better chance you have of reaching the above mentioned. Like I said it may not show up on the *** dyno, but with other mods it is the difference between lighting the win bulb or buying back next round. The cool factor along with a performance exhaust is enough to make it worth it.

Ryan

 

Hey Ryan, Your the first person I've run accross that believes it makes a differance pushing air into a turbo! I once had a fellow tell me it was a waste to have ram air on a diesel. It already has it and its called a turbo. Super dutys are easy to go one more step. Cut the hole in the core support 4" round and use PVC pipe and fittings into the air box. The next step is a 3' to 4" rubber adapter and a 4" 45 degree elbow to make it 4" all the way to the turbo. The plastic pipe doesn't conduct heat like aluminum or steel but is way smoother than rubber.

 

Ramsmoker, mrxlh is right, he just might not be getting it across the best way. While the stock engine only allows so much boost, dont equate boost to mass of air entering the engine. An inititial colder dose will be more dense so after it is compressed up to XX PSI it will still have more mass.

I agree the gains are probably small but, this is the best mod on a $ for hp gain ratio. Even if it worth only 3-5 Hp think of the 3 cents you spent on tool wear and electricity to do the mod.

 

It's really about the temperature--bottom line. It's actually possible (I've seen the data logger) that the second intake air sensor CAN give a cooler reading than the first intake air sensor if the available air charge is there. THIS IS NOT TYPICAL nor should you ever expect it in the real world. If you go to the Kennebell website and read some of their research about "cold air intakes" and what their research has shown then you know why they will only honor warranty when their kits are used with the factory air induction. Check it out--good reading on forced air induction (supercharger/turbocharger).

 

LOL I served it up, so I am glad some one took advantage.

 

The Airaid filter has a rubber front and rubber gasket that seals around the intake tube. The rest of it, as I am sure you know, is encased in wire mesh so the little water that gets in there will only drain to the bottom in most cases.

Don't u think the filter itself is a little denser than an oil soaked rag . . .

 

.....No.....

 

Well, I went ahead with this mod. I read somewhere about someone making a damper out of a VHS cover and choke cable. I made one out of 316 SS painted to match with cable going into cab. Since this truck came with the K&N open style filter, I figure that giving the unit fresh cool air, instead of pulling air from around the motor/Radiator would benefit. Mucho power? Ungodly results? Probably not, but since I like to tinker, and giving the engine cool air vs the air heated from the rad/motor seems to make sense, why not.