Is there a trick to removing the inside duals from an F6? I am a bit of a newbie to big trucks. Trying to remove but both inside duals seem to be locked solid. Truck has set for 30 + years so it just may need some added force to remove. Any ideas appreciated - Jerry

 

Have you removed the thimble nuts? If not, you need a Budd wheel socket, it has a square hole for the head of the thimble nut inside just past the hex portion. It is a duel purpuss wheel socket.

 

You'll probably NOT want to remove both the inside wheel and outside at the same time but you may have to if you can't get the outer nut off.

I had that problem removing mine. I replaced all the inside and outside lugnuts on mine. some were so corroded that the whole thing turned.

Once you get the wheels off you can split them. If they are completely rusted together you may have to cut the nuts off. If the nuts are severely corroded the wheels will probably be unsafe too.

Remove all the air from the tires before you do this by the way. If the split rim decides to come apart while you are doing all of this you may lose your life!

Then, find yourself a set of 3 piece "Lock Ring" type wheels to replace the 2 piece split rim wheels. Most tire dealers won't reassemble your split rims. (I couldn't find anyone in Western Wa to do it because of insurance restrictions....also after I read in the Ford Shop Manual that the "Widow Makers" could come apart before, during, or after installation AND driving down the road, I decided that I couldn't afford the chance I might kill someone(including myself!) either.

Ideally you'll want 19.5" or 22.5" 5 LUG(BUDD) type wheels for tubeless tires. If you find some let me know! They don't seem to be readily available. I had to buy rebuilt 3 piece lockring (tube type) wheels.

I really wanted to use tubeless tires. Mine are TOYO 9.00-20 tube type radials in the front and 9.00-20 recaps on the back. It all works and looks good. I had to buy wheels, tires, tubes, flaps, etc.....it wasn't cheep!



Regards,

Rick

 

Thanks very much for the info.. I suspected I was doing something wrong..I was not aware of the thimble nuts.. I will go out an purchase a Budd Socket set. I was planning on using the 20" wheels on the rear and 19.5 on the front. trying to keep the truck as original as possible. Found a local shop willing to mount tires on the 20" wheels if I decide to go that route. I have been looking for 22.5" but no luck. Hopefully I locate 4 wheels before I get to that stage of my project.. If not I will be forced in to using the 20"
Thanks Again

 

I bought my lug-nut wrenchs from NAPA. Get yourself a 4 or 5 foot piece of pipe too (for a "Snipe"!!)...you'll need it!

You'll be "safer" using those wheels on the back I suppose.....the part that comes off will be on the "inside" of the duals. I would ABSOLUTELY not use (2 piece) splits on the front!! Good luck finding 19.5"/22.5" 5 lug wheels for the front!

Please post here where you get them!! Stockton Wheel in Stockton Ca did have wheels at one time and they do make them from time to time. If I hadn't bought the 20" rebuilds I would have had to get special order wheels possibly from Stockton wheel or somewhere similar. http://www.stocktonwheel.com/military_wheels.htm


Anyway, good luck on the project......Please post pictures when able and keep us posted!



Regards,

Rick

 

Acetelyne torch is the only way I could get mine off. I found 6 five lug Solid 22.5" rims in Oregon, I have 9R 22.5 radials on my F-5. Sweet!

 

One big word of warning when using the torch. If you plan to cut the thimble nuts off they can shoot out a nice long flame. I couldn't remove the ones on one of my parts trucks so I started to torch them off. Unknown to me, some one had applied grease to the studs before threading on the thimble nuts. As soon as I heated the thimble nuts up and popped a small hole into them with the torch a jet of burning, liquified grease can flaming out. Wow! what surprise! Just be careful.

 

Oh baby! I forgot allabout the flaming thimble nuts! I wasn't even trying to cut min off, just warm them to loosen. Burned thru the first one accidentaly and it when off like a roman candle. Damn near blew me off the bucket I was using as a stool! And they burn a long time till they flame out.

 

I was lucky...I got all of mine off (although a few of the ones on the rear came off together).

I bought new ones and put them on with "Never Sieze"

This was also my lucky week! I found a 2 speed axle in good condx for only $100 and a pretty good condx 292 for $100!
(although it had a burnt valve .....easy fix....and now it's already fixed too!)

 

HT32 congrats on finally finding an axle. Is it electric, I guess its got the right bolt pattern? whats your ratios?

 

I have managed to break loose every one I have tried. First I soak them for a few days with PB Blaster. I use impact sockets and extensions with a breaker bar and a five foot length of pipe for leverage. I use a long extension and put a jack stand under the extension near the handle end. Often I have to jump on the pipe to get them to break loose but I don't have much body mass to work with.

You will need a 13/16 square socket for the inner nut. If you Google "Budd wheel tools" you will find lots of sources. My sockets are 3/4 drive but I would but 1" drive if I were buying them again.

If the inner nut spins when you try to remove the outer nut it's easiest to get them apart while the wheel is still on the truck. The proper tool for this job is known as a pork chop. It jams in the wheel and holds the outer nut so you can drive the inner nut back on.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ken30609.html

Left side of truck has left handed threads. Check for the "L" stamp on the end of the stud. Sometimes the studs get replaced with right handed.

Craig

 

I had a real heck of a time removing the left lugs until I figured out that they were LEFT HAND threads!! I knew it but you how it goes.....old habits etc!


My axle is a 5.83 (high) ... it had 5 83 stamped on the pumpkin. It's off a 56 so I'm hoping that it's 12v. It could be an earlier one though...the motors aren't unique. I should be able to find a 12v motor. 5 lug BUD of course!

 

Wow..Lots of good information. I will pick up my budd sockets and try to remove this weekend. Many Thanks to everyone

 

Be prepared to break out in a real sweat! These babies are put on tight and then usually have decades to rust in place. I had to use my Budd socket wrench with a 7 foot cheater pipe for leverage. Always try to stand on cheater pipe rather than hang from it. (don't ask how I know this, I just do, now.) When I put them back on I used the same method. A month later I took it in to get a flat fixed and the gut at the tire shop said my lugs were way loose when he took them off. He rattled them on withthe big gun, I may never get them off again!

 

abdelon, don't forget to torque down the lug nuts when remounting your tires. I believe they take 400 ft-lbs of torque.

Fran