can someone tell me if the closed knuckle dana 44 is about as strong as the HD dana 44? i have a guy who wants to trade a 67 closed knuckle 44 for my HD 44 as an even swap. his 44 seems to be in working order HOWEVER i think it has 4.56 gears--(its from a 67 f250 4x4) which is the more desirable axle? i need honest opinions on this because i dont want to get screwed over. thanks!
benj

 

Do you think that he would want your axle if IT didn't offer some advantage for him that his axle doesn't??????Even IF both axles are equal in gear ratio and strength----A closed knuckle axle is a BIG disadvantage because they are well known for being very difficult to keep or retain grease. The consensus first choice in front axles is the dana 60 , next choice would have to be the dana 44----you had best keep what you have and improve upon it!!!fd :-X11

 

I would have to agree, The closed knuckle axles are strong but they tend to be a maintenance nuisance. There are people that would probably buy his axle, for cash. I just finished doing a rebuild on my 71 closed knuckle, alot of work.
Keep your open knuckle, if he really wants a open knuckle, have him call Ventures Truck parts,(801) 621-0091 talk to Chris about the 78 F250 axle he has for $500. It is a 44 and a high pinion.

DV

 

DV,

I am currently in the disassemble stage of my 74 Ford F250 Dana 44 Closed knuckle rebuild.

I have not been able to find anyone local who is familiar with this to get some info.

I have the 73 Ford shop manual. a little short on the how to for the dana and long on all the special tools required. The haynes manual is not much better.

I thought I had a bad U joint in the front knuckle. (clicking on deaccelearation (sp?) I have pulled the drivers side axle, and replaced a U joint that I think was OK anyways. I found wheel bearing grease in hub. My knuckle seals evidently were bad and the previous owner just filled the knuckle with the bearing grease.

This is turning into a story.

Here is my question. What does it take to get the pinion bearings out. Do I need a special tool? When I replace all the bearings can I use the old shims and be "close enough"?

billy21


>I would have to agree, The closed knuckle axles are strong
>but they tend to be a maintenance nuisance. There are people
>that would probably buy his axle, for cash. I just finished
>doing a rebuild on my 71 closed knuckle, alot of work.
>Keep your open knuckle, if he really wants a open knuckle,
>have him call Ventures Truck parts,(801) 621-0091 talk to
>Chris about the 78 F250 axle he has for $500. It is a 44 and
>a high pinion.
>
>DV
>

 

you can use the old shims as a starting point but i would not just slap it togeather and call it good cheack your wear patterns to make sure it is set up a friend of mine did not and it cost him big time broken teeth and when he ask me to fix it the ring gear was wearing into the case
:-X11 oh well live and learn
the best learned lesson is a hard learned lesson

 

If you are talking about the bearings on the steering knuckles they are called trunnion bearings. The preload on these bearings is important. The lower takes all the impact loads from the road, the outer race gets pounded.
All the parts are available bearings, wipe (knuckle) seals, spindle bushings, EXCEPT the shims. Obsolete they are...
But I do have a few resources, I have a copy of the Dana 44 manual, and the Dana 60 as well. I could make a copy of the pages that deal with rebuilding the ends. and I have a page that has the dimensions of the shims, and the spicer part #s for the different shims. If you happen to find anyone that has any.

Email me at danev2(No Email Addresses In Posts!), if you want them.

Also call Six States Distributors 801 621-8772 talk to Tom. he has all the parts and info you need plus he could order all the dana manuals you need. They are all currently in print.

Note on making the new wipe seals seal well and last,
Sand the bals down very well, with sand paper, right down to a smooth shiney metal, them paint them with several coats of clear laquer. This will fill in the casting voids on the ***** and won't allow bits of sand and grit to get under the seals and abrade them.

Hope it all helps..

DV

 

Appreciate the info on the knuckle seals...

I did make some progress. I work part time at a local Advance store, and just happened to be driving past a garage that regularly gets parts from us. To my suprise the guy I know there is also a local dana kind of guy. He got me all pointed in the right direction. (mostly overcoming fears of breaking something.) I will get on this this week. Hopefully be done by the weekend. ( I do get a tasty little discount as an employee at the store and since I know the books, I am not too afraid of at least getting my own parts right.