DYNOMAX performance header
#2
#3
DYNOMAX performance header
First off, welcome to FTE!
I did the same thing to my old '76 4x4, after swapping the 360 for a 390. They are the same block so you will probably have the same problems I had. I went the cheap route and got my dynomax headers from jcwhitney. Luckily, they matched my heads, this could be a problem if you have different (older or aftermarket )heads. If I remeber correctly, the drivers side header slid right in. If you have a manual tranny, you might find that the end of the clutch fork that sticks out on the side of the T-18 tranny, will hit on the collector flange a little. This wasn't too big of a deal. The clutch fork actually had enough up and down travel that I was able to use a small spring and a piece of wire to suspend the fork high enough so that it cleared the flange and did not effect the operation of the clutch.
The passenger side is a little harder. I had to raise the engine off of the mounts to get the header in. Then once I got all of the bolts attached finger tight, and let the engine back down to the mounts, one tube on the passenger side was actually hitting the frame and it wouldn't go all the down on the mounts. So, I raised the engine back up and took off the header, got out the torch and gently reshaped the curve in that particular tube, ie bent it in so it wouldn't hit the frame. It was only hitting a tiny bit, so it really wasn't bad to move it alittle.
If this is a truck you plan on keeping for a while, get some copper re-useable header gaskets. Also, use some good paste type anti-sieze compound on the bolts. If I had it to do over again, I'd get better quality headers. If you go to the FE Engine Forum, there is a discussion of headers that may offer more insight. Keep us posted and good luck!
Jayson
I did the same thing to my old '76 4x4, after swapping the 360 for a 390. They are the same block so you will probably have the same problems I had. I went the cheap route and got my dynomax headers from jcwhitney. Luckily, they matched my heads, this could be a problem if you have different (older or aftermarket )heads. If I remeber correctly, the drivers side header slid right in. If you have a manual tranny, you might find that the end of the clutch fork that sticks out on the side of the T-18 tranny, will hit on the collector flange a little. This wasn't too big of a deal. The clutch fork actually had enough up and down travel that I was able to use a small spring and a piece of wire to suspend the fork high enough so that it cleared the flange and did not effect the operation of the clutch.
The passenger side is a little harder. I had to raise the engine off of the mounts to get the header in. Then once I got all of the bolts attached finger tight, and let the engine back down to the mounts, one tube on the passenger side was actually hitting the frame and it wouldn't go all the down on the mounts. So, I raised the engine back up and took off the header, got out the torch and gently reshaped the curve in that particular tube, ie bent it in so it wouldn't hit the frame. It was only hitting a tiny bit, so it really wasn't bad to move it alittle.
If this is a truck you plan on keeping for a while, get some copper re-useable header gaskets. Also, use some good paste type anti-sieze compound on the bolts. If I had it to do over again, I'd get better quality headers. If you go to the FE Engine Forum, there is a discussion of headers that may offer more insight. Keep us posted and good luck!
Jayson
#4
DYNOMAX performance header
hey F250mudder my brother bought some Dynomax performance headers, and he had to take off the drive shaft but not the starter, or the motor mounts. By the way, the headers will only stay black for about a week, unless you bought the ceramic coated headers. hope this helps you.