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ball joint/ spindle help

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  #31  
Old 08-15-2004 | 10:35 PM
BillyBob69's Avatar
BillyBob69
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
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First off...stroud is right...grease zerts...use em.

THe little clip things is what holds the pads, (shoes) to the caliper. Replace the pads.

Brake adhesive? I'm not sure what you are talking about on that one. Do you have anymore info?

As for the gear lube, I have to be honest...I always had grease monkey check mine. I got tired of messing around with cleanup after oil changes and such so I had them do it and check the fluid levels in the diffs as well. I know it has been discusssed in this forum a few times. Its important you use the right stuff or you could wind up toasting your diff. Do a search in the forum for Differential fluid. You should find something.
 
  #32  
Old 08-16-2004 | 07:27 AM
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bjbmoglo
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For the breaks, when i was removing them the shim came off and i was directed to just use some brake adhesive to put it back on... but since im replacing the pad, should i just not worry? Needless to say it looks like the clips rusted off...

thanks for the advice on the grease... do i need to get a grease gun to do this?

for the diff fluid- i have no problem taking it to a jiffy lube or what have you to get that done, but will it make it a couple miles w/o too much trouble? gosh knows i have no shame about asking questions about autos...

as for the rest of the underbelly, is there anything in particuler i should watch out for with the rust?

bjb
 
  #33  
Old 08-16-2004 | 09:08 AM
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BillyBob69
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From: Wheatland, Mo
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Yep get a grease gun. You can get a small one from the parts store with refills for it.

For the brake pad adhesive.....it is nothing more than a small packet of something that looks like Blue lock tite. Ya cut one corner of the packet, squeeze out the goo inside to the BACK of the brake pads, install em and done. It helps to hold the pad against the caliper to cut back on clatter when you use the brakes.

Diff fluid. Unless you lost about 2 quarts, you should be fine. just don't drive her too long on low fluid.

Rust...hehe well if you look at my signature pic, you can see the rust that WAS there. I got lucky in that when the shop pulled the fenders, there was no rust on the inner metal. on the underside, if you really want to spend some money....get it sandblasted and Rhino lined. Or, you could use some stuff, (Forgot the name cause I haven't used it), that you spray right on the metal and it changes the rust to primer. A couple of good coats of that stuff should help.

Take it to a car wash and gut the under side real good. If you go wheelin in mud sand water snow, when you are done, make sure you get ALL the mud. dirt etc out of the little corners up inside the fenders. If left there, the moisture in there is what will start the rusting. On the tailgate, make sure you have a good window seal so the water doesnt drop down inside the tailgate, and if it doesn't have them already, drill about 4 drain holes in the bottom edge of the tail gate then cover the edges of the holes with primer or paint. This will allow any water in the tailgate to drain and not sit and rust.
 

Last edited by BillyBob69; 08-16-2004 at 09:11 AM.
  #34  
Old 09-23-2004 | 12:42 PM
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Herd_Fan
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Joined: Sep 2004
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I have the OTC press and used it this weekend. I zipped the ball joints out in around 10 minutes. The correct tool is always nice.
 
  #35  
Old 09-23-2004 | 01:40 PM
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djjoshuad
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Corinth, TX
POR-15 is that rust->primer stuff you were talking about

http://www.por15.com/Default.asp
 
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