I used the flat metal mounts off old gages to mount the plastic cans.

 

Yes, I saw that and it worked well. I didn't do much last night after work just connected the copper extension to the Nylon one supplied with the AM gauge.
I am taking the A-pillar cover down to the auto paint store today to have them mix me some paint. It cost $15 but then it does on the WEB also plus I would have to pay shipping. It's a good thing I'm not in a hurry even though the Predator is sitting in my shop waiting for me to do something with it

 

I wasn't as patient as you. I tried the 65 HP mode the minute I had the Predator in my hands.

 

I have been searching for a replacement gage for the tranny. the banks one has never worked. if you go to diesel manor they have pictures of all of the gages. and one of the best selections of gages and pods I've seen. I cant remember but I think they have the wood laminate and carbonfiber gage pods. Have you guys seen the bully dog gages yet they look really cool with that bulldog on them?

 

I have always used Auto Meter Gages and have never had one fail to work.

 

Yep, seen the the wood grain and the bulldog gauges. I didn't want to have to buy two wood grain pieces (one for driver and one for passenger A-pillar). I also like the looks of the autometer Phantom's so that is the way I went. In another hour I should have my paint so I can finish this job.

 

Well I finally finished the gauge install over the weekend. I picked up my paint last Thursday and painted the POD. Not an exact match but close enough. I discovered the gauges don't fit exactly flush with the pod so I had to pull them out a little and take a q-tip and put some paint on the white part of the gauge so it didn't look so bad. I also found out that when they tell you to drill a 5/32 hole for the push nails (holds the pod to the A-pillar original cover) it won't work. I put the factory cover back on and then the gauges in the pod and then the pod over the factory cover. I had pre-drilled both. I could not for the life of me push those nails in. I was able to take a reamer and fix the two nearest the door but the two near the windshield side I coudn't get the reamer in. They are sticking half way out as I couldn't get them in. Anyway the gauges work fine. I was surprised as to how quickly the pyro gauge jumps up under normal driving and how fast it reacts. The installation looks good and I love it!

 

Post some pics! Sometimes you can fit a reamer or a bit in a tap handle and work it in a tight place.

 

Ok, will do. I will get some pic's tonight. Yes, I tried the reamer in the tap handle trick but still didn't have enough room. Using this method I was able to at least get the nails in half way. I may go see if I can find the next size smaller nail at one of the auto places. BTW, I have my club fte site up. Still in progress though....

 

OK Bob, click on my FTE Club member link by my user name. Click on the truck. The color actually matches better than the picture indicates. The flash really lightened it up.

 

Good photos! You really have a nice place!

 

I need access to a light dimmer controlled wire for my gauges, and this sounded like the ticket. What panel are you referring to? Do you mean the fuse panel cover under the steering wheel? I see the harness attached to the gas pedal, but I don't need to remove any panels for this. Can you tell I am confused

I also tried to remove the light switch panel by inserting a screw driver in the slot at the bottom, but I heard lots of bad sounding cracks, and could never get more then the bottom and left side free. The top and right wouldn't budge.

Help!

 

Take a look here...http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/image34.htm

 

Thanks, this picture worked like a charm. Gauge lights are now hooked up.

 

Excellent picture and great help to FTE members