ive been considering efans (specifically the everyones favorite rf355) and i want to use a good pwm controller rather than slamming the alternator with massive current spikes using just relays, but as everyone else says and i can confirm dcc doesnt respond to emails and i dont feel like giving someone who cant even be arsed to respond to a potential customer my money, to say nothing of the multi month lead time. a flexalite 270 would be a good second choice, but yeah 500 bucks for that is a joke (and not a funny one).
as a stopgap, and because i mostly want to do this to help the ac at idle anyway because it is currently 105-110 where i live, i want to just put a pusher fan on the condenser. does anyone have a recommended a quality brand of fan to use? also to activate it i was just going to run a fuse tap off of the ac clutch fuse to the control relay, but is there another line somewhere that goes hot when ac is selected so the fan wont keep cycling on and off?

 

Is there a problem? Is the AC blowing warm when you are at idle? Is the OEM fan not spinning enough? The OEM cooling system is engineered to work even in 100+ heat. A pusher fan won't fix the real problem.







Spal. Hayden. Flex-A-Lite. Derale. Mishimoto.


The original Troyer fans were Derale.





















The controller's yellow wire can tap into any wire which is "HOT IN RUN OR START", or "HOT IN ACC OR RUN".

The controller's green wire can tap into the A/C clutch, or wired to a toggle switch on your dashboard.

 

not warm, but just not as cold as it should be plus it takes a while to cool down from a "cold" start. this goes doubly for my expy as it has dual zone ac, so double the system to cool with roundabout the same size compressor and way more interior space with a ton of glass. i recently redid both systems almost completely -everything but evaporators and lines- and filled them exactly to spec so they work excellent, just not at idle when its 110 outside and 130 inside with the sun beating down. im assuming and hoping it is due to high ambient temp and lack of airflow to compensate in cooling the condenser.

i was looking at a derale controller as it was affordable and it apparently was actually designed by dcc, but also read that it is built cheaply and unreliable. this mishimoto controller also looks really good, but no reviews and given mishis hit and miss reputation across their product lineup... idk. as far as fans, i would very much like to use the rf355 as they are very reliable and move air like crazy, but again of course they draw such an absurd amount of current basically no controller on the market other than a dcc will work without popping. im not even sure the stock alternators would be able to handle it.

for the wiring, i meant a current carrying wire that stays hot when ac is selected, such as the one that powers the light on the ac button (but more convenient than behind the dash and a circuit that wouldnt mind an extra 1/4 amp load). i wanted to try to avoid constantly cycling the fan whenever the compressor is cycled if possible, but i suppose it wouldnt be the end of the world. dont want to drill into my dash for a switch.

 

I had an '85 Thunderbird 5.0 we took to a lot of NASCAR races, sat in a lot of traffic on hot days. A time or two I popped the hood to let hot air escape (like I learned to do my police cars while working wrecks, etc on hot summer interstate sides) ... then one day I just mounted a Hayden fan in front, wired it through a relay off the battery +, tripped the relay manually with a toggle, it cured it in the traffic lines on hot race days. Used as needed or desired.

I learned to pop the hood in the late '70s, did it up until retired. Just pull the handle and it popping to safety catch was generally enough, but if I knew I was gonna be stationary long, was easy to step out to raise it a little more. I knew to shut it if I was gonna take off.