There’s nothing wrong with points but you need to check the gap, and apparently a lot of the new sets have problems with the rubbing block wearing away very fast, you need to use some grease on them too for the rubbing block. Don’t just toss your distributor or coil, check the points first

 

now I really lost

 

points are not anything I have ever messed with and this being a crap distributor from Amazon not even sure about getting the right points to replace them. I'll attach a pic maybe you can lead me the right direction

 

That just looks like a normal set of points you would get if you went to any parts store and asked for some for a 74 F100. If you at least set the gap you can have a starting point and determine if the points are the issue or not. Like I said I've heard that on some new production sets the wear block is poor quality and wears down fast (The piece that looks like plastic that rubs against the distributor lobe). They make grease for putting between that rubbing block and the distributor cam that helps it last longer. To set the gap you just rotate the engine until the rubbing block is at the highest point on one of the lobes, loosen the adjustment screw barely visible on the far side away from the camera in your pic, and set the gap to about 0.017" then tighten the screw. At least this way you can rule them out. You can always swap them out for a pertronix too. But maybe the distributor is a cheap pos and not worth it, I have no idea. Is it a remanufactured one or just a new production chinese one? Regardless, if the rotor is spinning with the engine it would still run.

 

As Bearded said check / set point gap and go from there.
If the rub block (the red thing on the points arm) wears or the points come loose the gap will close up and cause all kinds of things to happen but run.

The other thing with the new point sets is bad condensers. That is the round thing on the other side of the dist. with a wire coming out of it, they fail on new sets.

I am guessing being you can crank / start the motor the battery is good?
If the charging system is not working and the battery runs down the coil will not get the volts needed to make spark and can act just like you have.
It will idle as it dose not take a lot of volts but as the RPM goes up more volts is needed and the spark fails and you get what you have going on.

But check the point gap first.
Dave ----

 

Invest in a dwell and tach old school meter for about $30. used on eBay. If you need help picking one, just give the word. This meter will help setting the dwell and the tach will help adjusting the carb later.
If the both the carb and distributor are re manufactured parts you will have your work cut out for you sorting out whether the previous owner ever did the proper things to get it running right.
No worries it can all be sorted 😎

 

The Carb is new the distributor is a cheap Chinese pos of Amazon. It also not the right OEM distributor for the truck. There seems to be a four prong and a 3 prong plug in the wiring harness he did not use. All the OEM one I looked at have the male end of that on them

 

Take two more pics from the front back showing the front axle and steering gear box. So we can finish sorting out what frame you have under her. Is this truck going to be tour daily driver?

 

this twice redroad got me out there checking my frame 🤣🤣🤣

 

I've highlighted what should be in there if original Dana 44 axle.

 

How Ignition Systems Work | Champion Tech Tips (championautoparts.com)

When points are closed, that's dwell time when the coil gets a charge,. When points open, the spark is generated, and if there's a plug wire there, that's where it goes. Points and the gaps get adjusted to increase or reduce dwell time. When points are adjusted, timing needs adjusting nex ... because adjusting points changes timing.

Points really aren't bad, they just get cared for differently.

 

Oh, I remember trying to stand on the friggin' bumper adjusting the points on the 390 in my first 73' Dent side. The adjusting screw was wore and the points would stay put for about a week or so until it needed further attention. The day that I switched to a used 390 DSII distributor was a good day. Haven't looked back since. The FE's are getting hard to find a DSII distributor for these days.
That being said If I had to maintain a points distributor again I wouldn't do it without a dwell meter. They are only $30. on ebay in decent usble shape. You may have to put new alligator clips on it but that's it.

 

I have a Fox Valley meter since the late 70's that also dose volts & amps.
Yep feeler gauge on points to get it running then use the meter to set dwell on the money.

If dwell moved around the bushing in the dist. are bad.
If the dwell did not move but the timing did look for timing chain play.
It was great when you used real tools to check out motors and not computers
Dave ----

 

Gentlemen
thought come by give yall an update.
replaced points(set to .017 gap), condesnor, rotor, cap , coil ,and wires. Didnt help a damn bit waste of $200
So today dropped in a jegs HEI and wired it threw a relay so ignition closes coil and sends 12v threw the contacts to the HEI. BAM TRUCK FIRED UP. Put a by ear and diving tune and Runnin better the the day brought her home.
now I did however drop my batt in backwards like the ******* I am and I fried my linkable fuse(bypass for now one on the way) but I noticed Im getting 17v when truck is running so I assuming either I also fried the voltage regulator or it was already fired maybe that's what took the points distributor out. Gonna get a voltage regulator ordered tomorrow. Did check the wiring between alt and regulator and have good continuity if new regulator dsnt work gonna go the easy way and drop in a single wire alt.
Yall help is greatly appreciated and any thoughts I would luv to hear