1989 f250 ignition key switch replacement.
#16
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#17
Hey guys I appreciate all the responses! I’m definitely missing something in the cylinder. I’ve come across another problem. The truck was being started with 2 wires that were connected to the same black box near the battery that the positive cable goes to. Now the truck will not start at all unless those wires are touched(pulling and pushing the actuator when the steering wheel is off) I’m at a loss for why the ignition system wouldn’t work unless it was jumped. Also the teeth on the actuator are very torn.
Wires used to jump
piece that both jump wires connect to cut and soldered wire to the right side confuses me
Wires used to jump
piece that both jump wires connect to cut and soldered wire to the right side confuses me
#21
I know the picture above is not yours. But it may be helpful. In that picture, the actuator rod is pushed too far forward. There's a flat spot after the teeth, and that flat spot has to be fully behind the pinion centerline when the cylinder is inserted- otherwise, everything will *seem* to work, except the key can't be turned fully into the "start" position. Make sure yours is properly oriented, and pry fore or aft as necessary before inserting cylinder. Inspect the teeth carefully- common that the aft-most one gets worn off, the whole mechanism skips a tooth, and you end up in the position you're in.
Also, the pinion gear is supposed to go *behind* that plate that the snap ring holds in. If you put it on the cylinder first, it's not gonna slide in. The generic picture above appears to show no pinion gear behind that plate- is that the case for yours too?
Also, the pinion gear is supposed to go *behind* that plate that the snap ring holds in. If you put it on the cylinder first, it's not gonna slide in. The generic picture above appears to show no pinion gear behind that plate- is that the case for yours too?
#22
I know the picture above is not yours. But it may be helpful. In that picture, the actuator rod is pushed too far forward. There's a flat spot after the teeth, and that flat spot has to be fully behind the pinion centerline when the cylinder is inserted- otherwise, everything will *seem* to work, except the key can't be turned fully into the "start" position. Make sure yours is properly oriented, and pry fore or aft as necessary before inserting cylinder. Inspect the teeth carefully- common that the aft-most one gets worn off, the whole mechanism skips a tooth, and you end up in the position you're in.
Also, the pinion gear is supposed to go *behind* that plate that the snap ring holds in. If you put it on the cylinder first, it's not gonna slide in. The generic picture above appears to show no pinion gear behind that plate- is that the case for yours too?
Also, the pinion gear is supposed to go *behind* that plate that the snap ring holds in. If you put it on the cylinder first, it's not gonna slide in. The generic picture above appears to show no pinion gear behind that plate- is that the case for yours too?
#24
You can buy those parts, the "rack", the gear and actuator rod. Someone had posted a link in a previous post on dealing with these ignition key cylinder / actuator issues to a place that specializes in these pieces. I don't have that link, but I do remember using it to visit the website. Maybe someone knows that site and can post the link, or search through old posts.
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