When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The only cost effective way to fix this is to replace the engine with another 5.4L. Anything else is going to cost a boat load of additional money to make it work.
Most likely, I actually have another question for you though.
I can't completely swap it myself, I don't have a shop, enough space, or all the tools/equipment it would require. But if I disconnected pretty much everything from the engine and then brought it to a shop, would doing all that impact the cost of labor in a significant way? Most of the wiring, bolts, and hoses I could do myself. Just an idea.
All 5.4L engines ever produced have the same bellhousing bolt pattern.
As for doing part of the work yourself, ask the shop. I know when I owned a shop if someone did part of the work and brought to us partially disassembled they would have to pay more for us to finish the job. It causes a lot more work fo the mechanic to have to put everything back together. I suppose you might be able to pay them to only do the swap, and not get it all back together and running. That might save some money. Ask them.
Most likely, I actually have another question for you though.
I can't completely swap it myself, I don't have a shop, enough space, or all the tools/equipment it would require. But if I disconnected pretty much everything from the engine and then brought it to a shop, would doing all that impact the cost of labor in a significant way? Most of the wiring, bolts, and hoses I could do myself. Just an idea.
You'd be best to call around local shops and ask. I know of some around me that would lift it out and drop the other in for $300 - $500 and take no responsibility if they break something along the way. Then there are the ones that will charge you more because you worked on it first. Your best bet is to find a friend that has space or a barn with a cherry picker. I know some parts of the country also have self service garages where you rent a service bay by the day or week.
The only problem with that though is even with plenty of aftermarket parts, work, and mods, a 216k mile messed up motor truck won't get more than 3k max. I'd love to hang onto it though because it's a great truck.
Not arguing that point, but what's the return you're expecting out of putting a new motor in it, which will likely cost you that or more and not really increase your resale value? It's a 5.4 Super Duty, they're not really that sought after. Most people want either the V10, a 7.3, or a newer 6.2.
The truck was used for mudding and burnouts by the last owner, I know guys who know him and they confirmed that. It's got 216k miles on the original engine. And yeah I'm fairly certain it would either need a few grand of work or a new motor for it to keep going. I could do a grand in labor, plus pay for the engine myself. I found one from a 2004 F250 with only 118k miles, and I can afford that too. Would the 2017 2v 5.4 fit to a 4R100 transmission from a '99 though? I don't know if they went to a different transmission or if they changed the bellhousing, though I imagine they would have in 18 years.
That explains why the engine isn't doing so well - mudding and burnouts in a Super Duty with a 5.4 is stressing that motor beyond belief. I'm surprised it held up as well as it did - while it's a stout motor it's not really built for that kind of abuse.
Definitely check around with shops as to whether they'd be willing to have you bring it to them with it partially disassembled, most of them don't like that. They'd rather do the complete R&R themselves because then the mechanic assigned to it knows for sure what has been done and what hasn't, and doesn't have to deal with any surprises.
All 5.4L engines ever produced have the same bellhousing bolt pattern.
As for doing part of the work yourself, ask the shop. I know when I owned a shop if someone did part of the work and brought to us partially disassembled they would have to pay more for us to finish the job. It causes a lot more work fo the mechanic to have to put everything back together. I suppose you might be able to pay them to only do the swap, and not get it all back together and running. That might save some money. Ask them.
Alright, yeah that does make sense now that I think about it like that.
You'd be best to call around local shops and ask. I know of some around me that would lift it out and drop the other in for $300 - $500 and take no responsibility if they break something along the way. Then there are the ones that will charge you more because you worked on it first. Your best bet is to find a friend that has space or a barn with a cherry picker. I know some parts of the country also have self service garages where you rent a service bay by the day or week.
Not arguing that point, but what's the return you're expecting out of putting a new motor in it, which will likely cost you that or more and not really increase your resale value? It's a 5.4 Super Duty, they're not really that sought after. Most people want either the V10, a 7.3, or a newer 6.2.
I'm really just looking to get it running again, when the time comes to sell it I understand that just having another 5.4 wont get me much value added, but at least itll have less mileage. I can't do the wiring/electronics if I were to v10 swap it, I think a modern 6.2 would probably destroy the drivechain, and a 7.3 + all the components it'd need are just out of my price range.
If I had the money I would have just bought a 7.3 or a 6.4 to begin with lol
That explains why the engine isn't doing so well - mudding and burnouts in a Super Duty with a 5.4 is stressing that motor beyond belief. I'm surprised it held up as well as it did - while it's a stout motor it's not really built for that kind of abuse.
Definitely check around with shops as to whether they'd be willing to have you bring it to them with it partially disassembled, most of them don't like that. They'd rather do the complete R&R themselves because then the mechanic assigned to it knows for sure what has been done and what hasn't, and doesn't have to deal with any surprises.
Yeah the thing is completely burnt out, but thankfully the transmission still works good, I was surprised it was still running after all that (for a time at least).
Okay, I'll definitely look into if they'd rather that or not, I can see why they might rather doing the whole swap by themselves.
I'm really just looking to get it running again, when the time comes to sell it I understand that just having another 5.4 wont get me much value added, but at least itll have less mileage. I can't do the wiring/electronics if I were to v10 swap it, I think a modern 6.2 would probably destroy the drivechain, and a 7.3 + all the components it'd need are just out of my price range.
If I had the money I would have just bought a 7.3 or a 6.4 to begin with lol
What I meant was a newer truck with the 6.2, not your body style with a 6.2. That wouldn't be a direct drop-in anyway, and would likely cost more than putting in a V10 (which is really a wiring harness swap and a new or flashed PCM). And at all costs avoid a 6.4 Powerstroke if you don't have the cash to rebuild it from the ground up to make it not a piece of glass.
You also can't really advertise that the truck as a whole has less mileage even with a new motor - your odometer still will show the miles you have now. Sure you can tell people the motor has fewer miles but that doesn't really do much to raise your resale either.
I still maintain that, for a kid starting out, it might be better to bite this bullet and get something better on gas with a smaller repair bill attached to it.
I still maintain that, for a kid starting out, it might be better to bite this bullet and get something better on gas with a smaller repair bill attached to it.
^^^^as a licensed Ford dealership technician who's been employed in the automotive industry for more than thirty years as of this post, the above quoted paragraph is the best advice to the OP after reading through this entire thread. Putting another penny into a high mileage twenty-five year old vehicle that has also been ridden hard and put away wet by the sounds of things is not going to add any monetary value to it, other than to YOU.
What I meant was a newer truck with the 6.2, not your body style with a 6.2. That wouldn't be a direct drop-in anyway, and would likely cost more than putting in a V10 (which is really a wiring harness swap and a new or flashed PCM). And at all costs avoid a 6.4 Powerstroke if you don't have the cash to rebuild it from the ground up to make it not a piece of glass.
You also can't really advertise that the truck as a whole has less mileage even with a new motor - your odometer still will show the miles you have now. Sure you can tell people the motor has fewer miles but that doesn't really do much to raise your resale either.
I still maintain that, for a kid starting out, it might be better to bite this bullet and get something better on gas with a smaller repair bill attached to it.
I get that, but like I said this isn’t something I want to flip, make money on, or sell as of right now. I’d just like to get it running again
^^^^as a licensed Ford dealership technician who's been employed in the automotive industry for more than thirty years as of this post, the above quoted paragraph is the best advice to the OP after reading through this entire thread. Putting another penny into a high mileage twenty-five year old vehicle that has also been ridden hard and put away wet by the sounds of things is not going to add any monetary value to it, other than to YOU.
Thats alright with me, I know it’s not going to appreciate much in value, or that it’ll be a gas saver lol. I’m just interested in it running again, if the swap doesn’t add any real value that’s alright.
Man its really not that hard to pull it yourself.
Seriously, that hardest part is keeping track of everything as it comes out of and off to remember how it goes back together again.
If youve got the space to pull it leave the truck sitting for awhile & I'd set up 2 tables to set layout parts on as you go to stay organized.
My hardest part was literally lifting it with the cherry picker slowly and up back up back up back X50 to get it out of the back corner by myself with snow on the ground, not recommended.
Only specialty tools your really going to need is a cheap fuel line disconnect tool 5-15$,
Harmonic balancer puller. 40$ for a cheaper one off amazon.
Removing it out the front is way easier that up the top.
I've even seen guys leave the A/C condenser connected and off to the side out of the way.
For exhaust manifolds save yourself 200ish bucks and find a good older mirror from like the goodwill ect.
Get your grinding paste and grind your manifolds on the mirror with the paste. Seriously, old machinist trick someone taught me.
Older mirrors are DEAD flat, its how they were made back in the day that made them flat. Grind in figure 8 montions till you no longer have any high spots.
If you attempt to & have an iphone all give you my number and you can facetime me for questions along the way.
I'm sorta busy with my schedule but when I'm free I'd help answer questions you have as they come.
Lights, top grill, lower bumper all removed. Fluids drained. Radiators all removed, fan and fan housing out of the way. Engine out looking at torque convertor.
Manual grinding, takes along time and some elbow grease but saves you a couple 100$.
Last edited by reptar0077; 10-13-2023 at 11:11 PM.
Reason: GrammMMMer
Man its really not that hard to pull it yourself.
Seriously, that hardest part is keeping track of everything as it comes out of and off to remember how it goes back together again.
If youve got the space to pull it leave the truck sitting for awhile & I'd set up 2 tables to set layout parts on as you go to stay organized.
My hardest part was literally lifting it with the cherry picker slowly and up back up back up back X50 to get it out of the back corner by myself with snow on the ground, not recommended.
Only specialty tools your really going to need is a cheap fuel line disconnect tool 5-15$,
Harmonic balancer puller. 40$ for a cheaper one off amazon.
Removing it out the front is way easier that up the top.
I've even seen guys leave the A/C condenser connected and off to the side out of the way.
For exhaust manifolds save yourself 200ish bucks and find a good older mirror from like the goodwill ect.
Get your grinding paste and grind your manifolds on the mirror with the paste. Seriously, old machinist trick someone taught me.
Older mirrors are DEAD flat, its how they were made back in the day that made them flat. Grind in figure 8 montions till you no longer have any high spots.
If you attempt to & have an iphone all give you my number and you can facetime me for questions along the way.
I'm sorta busy with my schedule but when I'm free I'd help answer questions you have as they come.
Lights, top grill, lower bumper all removed. Fluids drained. Radiators all removed, fan and fan housing out of the way. Engine out looking at torque convertor.
Manual grinding, takes along time and some elbow grease but saves you a couple 100$.
I appreciate all the advice man, and damn nice truck, I'll consider doing it myself, I just don't have a space right now for it, I can ask around to try and find one though. I'll let you know I can figure something out.
10-10-2023 | 10:16 AM
