What works best for a rear end in a 54 f100 with a CV swap?
I am thinking 8.8 Explorer...Pictures are helpful. Thanks

 

I did the S-550 IRS out of a GT Mustang with 3.55 gears and a cast iron differential. I also used the electric power steering with the Crown Vic IFS.

The S-550 IRS is about the same width as the Crown Vic front suspension and it has the same wheel pattern. The only issue is that the IRS has Metric Lugs and the Crown Vic is 1/2-20.

 

After reviewing your picture more, I noticed that you located the Crown Vic as high as it will go within the frame, which will give you a lower stance. I used a 2x2x3/16 square tube, welded onto the bottom of the frame to make the frame flush on the bottom. Your setup will be 2" lower than mine will be.


I may be mistaken, but I think having it that low will require you to notch the back of the frame, for the rear axle, no matter which axle setup you use. I made my IRS adjustable for height with three settings, each 1 inch apart. I designed my setup, so I didn't have to notch the frame. However, it will not have as low of stance. I'm using mine as a cruiser so I didn't want it too low.



There is a good YouTube video of a guy who rebuilds this era of frames and it shows how he reinforces the frame to do what you have started.
Good luck with your build. You are off to a good start.

 

Something with ugly wheels to match the front.

(just kidding, but you asked, it's yours, do what you want)

 

No doubt, you cannot use dished wheels with a wide, modern front suspension. You also cannot use 15” wheels. So your wheel selection is limited to large diameter, inset wheels.

That is clearly the downside. The other downside is that it requires work to rebuild a CV suspension. You are not buying a new suspension and you cannot compare a wore out suspension to a new one.

Now for the upside.
A completely rebuilt Crown Victoria suspension, with double adjustable coil overs, new bushings, new sway bar links, new sway bar bushings, new bearings, new rotors and pads, new brake lines, new upper control arms, and a S-550 electric power steering system with adapter assembly, is available for around $2,500.

A modern suspension that is wider to allow for longer control arms which have inherently good handling characteristics.

Large disc brakes at a low cost that are very durable.

Parts availability at a reasonable cost.

Modular mounting system that is easy to use with modern Ford engines like the Coyote.

Aluminum suspension that is durable and lightweight. They have been proven in very harsh environments.

No hydraulic power steering system to leak, if you go electric.



If the wheels are a deal breaker, and for some they are, then a CV should not be used.

If the wheels are not a deal breaker, then look at what you get for about $2,500. If you look at the aftermarket suspension with anything that is close, you are talking about $4,000 and up, and none of the have electric power steering or as much aluminum.


Also, I have about $1,700 in my S-550 IRS. Not bad for a like new rear suspension, and that includes shipping and the steel price for the mounting system.


Here is the link to a guy who rebuilds these frames. It may give you some ideas.

 

To the OP.

If you need to notch your frame, the way the guy in the video did it, is one of the best I have seen. If you notice how wide the notch plates are, they stick inward and outward of the frame. This gives you a good welding surface and it is much stronger than a flush notch. That extra surface area adds a lot of strength and the notch really needs it.

Good luck with your build. It looks like you have a decent frame to work with.

 

I found some measurements on YouTube so I took a picture of them. I don't know if they are accurate, but I think they are in the ballpark. It shows that the Explorer rear end is narrower than the Crown Vic front end. It also shows the width of the S-550 Mustang IRS. It is less than 3/8" narrower per side than the Crown Victoria IFS. I doubt if anyone would notice. At least the front and rear wheels would match. I will post a couple of pictures of Mustang take off wheels and tires that I got cheap, for my 55'. They are like new and the price was right.

 

Inset wheels on the IRS.
They are kind of ugly!!!
Notice the chrome lug nuts. They are M14.



Inset wheels on the Crown Vic IFS.
They are also kind of ugly!!!
Notice the black lug nuts. They are 1/2-20.


There is something wrong with using these kinds of wheels.
I think if I remove the Mustang center emblems and replace them with F-100 emblems the inset wheels will look absolutely beautiful.

 

I will withhold my opinion on the offset wheels but as you went crown vic you knew this in advance , although I am a little curious as to how a 1.5 inch cap change will take an ugly wheel to beautiful . lol

 

That little horse just does not look right for a truck.

Yea, I did know the kind of wheels I needed before I started. I wanted a truck that was at least 90 percent Ford. I also wanted the best performance for the least amount of money. So far, so good. However, it has been a lot of work.

Besides, the Crown Vic IFS and the S-550 IRS are modular in design, and they are about the same width. I have never seen another IFS or IRS that was so simple to swap. It was like they were made for it.

I cannot think of one late model, high performance car that uses dished wheels. I think they all want the wider control arms, for their handling characteristics. This means that they have to use inset wheels. If given the choice of dished wheels or performance, I will take the performance. Many people prefer the looks. There is no right or wrong answer.

For pure beauty, I think it would be hard to beat a C4 Corvette IRS. They look awesome, but they are not modular.

 

I decided to keep the stock dana 44 as I believe this truck to have low miles, rear drums and shoes in good shape, ebrake works. When I bought it I got a newspaper article that explained it had been stored for 30 years in a garage..The next owner disassembled it and I bought it from him. Anyway, I removed all but 3 leafs of the springs and the frame difference front to back is 3", but the tires on the back are 2" taller than the front so I think I am good...For now. It will be LS powered (4.8L/4L60E) so we will see how long it lasts. I looked into putting a 4.6 ford into it but the costs for conversion were too high.

 

You typically get more horsepower per dollar with GM engines. It was very common to see GM engines in Fords back in the day, when Ford had serious compatibility issues.

Good luck with your build.

 

Hard to pass up 280hp and overdrive trans for $900 CDN..reprogram ECM $75 and add a harness $89. OBD makes troubleshooting easier. Add a cam and springs for $300 and you are close to 400HP.
I put 4.8's in my last 2 builds and they have plenty of power for pushing 70 year old steel down the road.

 

No doubt about it.

If you plan on running over 350 horsepower, you may want to consider boxing the frame, at least back behind the cab mounts a few inches.

Also, Do Not forget to put a crossmember (around the cantilevered cab mounts), back in. That support is necessary to keep from breaking the frame.

 

I think it looks good so far. Still a work in progress. Gets lot's of looks.