After that 1 bolt doing what it did I think I would replace them all just to be safe.
Was the hot exh gases blowing right on that bolt?
But even then I cant see that the cause of the bolt breaking.
Headers leak all the time and never seen it hurt head bolts.
Dave ----

 

I agree with Dave, replace them.

 

G'day, Dave.

Actually, neither of the exhaust manifolds had gaskets. Is it normal for the engines to come from the factory that way? I'm assuming here that because I bought BigBeast just five years after she was built, little work had been done on her...

Also, considering that the bolt inserts a good quarter inch into the block before meeting any resistance, I'm guessing at least that portion of the bolt hole in the block is stripped of its thread. So maybe the bolt snapped because only part of it was threaded into the block?

Kevin

 

Righto, will do. Thanks for the input, MC.

 

Finally got the right side head off. Was worried about getting coolant down into the cylinders, but she was dry.

Important question: does removing the drain plug on one side drain both heads? I ask because I couldn't get the drain plug out on the left side (that's the head I haven't removed yet). I'd have to drill and easyout the plug if that's necessary, as I don't want to contaminate the oil.
__________________
How much cylinder scoring is too much?

Dark patches on gaskets: leakage?

What's that sandy looking gunk?

coolant?

 

It is normal not to have gaskets on the exh manifolds from the factory.
All the parts are new and true so not needed but when the motor is used and the manifolds removed gaskets are used to seal them.

Did that motor sit for a time maybe with the air filter off?
I ask because it looks like water got into the motor in the last 2 pictures.

As for pulling the block drain plugs it should drain both sides but I never pull them.
What little coolant may get in there when the heads are pulled just dry it with rags and you will be ok.
Anything that may get past the rings into the oil you will be changing the oil before start up so not a big deal.
BTW I dont pull the block drains and just dry the coolant up.

The sandy stuff I think would be carbon. Over time with the motor sitting (a long time) it breaks down and looks like sand.
When you clean the top of the block you can clean it off also.
Dave ----

 

You'll want to run a thread tap down each headbolt hole before you go back together.

 

Thanks, Dave. You're right, of course: I've had not just the air cleaner off for the last four or five months, but also the manifolds and the sparkers. The gasket surfaces on the manifolds are pretty rough...how do you feel about using that copper gasket spray in addition to the gaskets to seal them?

 

Guess I'll have to get a tap, then...unless using one of the old bolts with hacksaw cuts the length of the thread would do?

 

What gasket intake or exh manifold and what are they made of?
Some motors use a metal pan gasket and the one I know (AMC) you use the copper spray or brush tack on the intake ports and RTV on the water ports.
I also throw out the end seals and use RTV in its place.
If the intake gaskets are thick printed seal type then they go on dry in my book unless paper says other wise.

Just make sure you clean the surfaces with a wire wheel then wipe them down with carb or brake clean just before you install the gaskets.
Dave ----

 

Hi, Dave.

These are part of the gasket kit for the lower inlet and exhaust manifold. They appear to be of the same material: is that what you mean by "thick printed seal type"? Also, I was wondering with the end seals if you peeled off that white plastic before using them; but you say you don't use them anyway...what's your reason for that?

 

The end seals on most v8's like to squeeze their way out and start leaking. If you really want to use the end seals, the best way is to get some yellow contact glue in a tube, and glue the end seals in place so they can't squirm out. Or just leave them out and put a very thick tall bead of RTV on the end surfaces on the block after you wiped them very clean with brake cleaner so the RTV will stick. Then the manifold just drops into the RTV and squeezes it out making a end seal gasket that will not move.

I do not recommend using RTV around the fuel/intake ports. Just the water ports on the ends, and then just a very thin smear with your finger, not a thick bead like the end seals. This is just to seal up any rust pits that may be there that would cause a minor water leak. The one time I used RTV on the fuel/intake ports, the RTV turned into a green goo. The RTV says right on the tube do not use it around gasoline, but I had to try it anyway. I guess they were right.

 

Makes sense. I've got some JB Ultimate Black RTV...would that do the job?

Also, when applying that thin smear of RTV to the water ports, do you go all the way around them, including the division between the water ports and the adjacent fuel/air inlet ports, or is it just the outside perimeter of the water ports?

 

Righto, I've got the valves out, and could use some feedback, as it all looks a right mess. I'm guessing the buildup on the sample valve in the pictures (all inlet valves have similar or worse buildup) is blow back doing the circuit from sump via the PCV valve to inlet manifold? What should I be expecting the engineering workshop to want to do?




left side head before cleaning

left side head before cleaning

 

Stick the valves back in (are they still in order?) and try to wiggle them from side to side to check valve guide wear. If they move any at all, the guides will have to be knurled and reamed or brass inserts installed, or the old guide cut out and new guides installed. They they will grind the seats and the valves to get them to seal again. And somewhere along the way they will clean everything up. They will also check the valve springs and the rockers for wear.