Still loving mine as well

I got the option to use the factory caps if I choose to. Haven’t done it as I am missing a front.

ZooDad

 

Are yours forged too? I will likely order a set next week. You both seem to be happy with them. My biggest concern was the outer rear wheel being lug centric and causing balancing issues or issues while towing heavy.

Did you put balancing beads in your outers as well?

 

The front center caps pop right on same as factory. On the rear ones, the new lugs are smaller OD where the caps grab, so I took a set of needlenose and went around putting a gentle squeeze on the tines that grab the lug nuts. The caps are tight. I was in and out of the tire shop a bunch initially, so they got a workout in the first week. I've never had an issue with loose (or losing) caps. Reason for tire shop visits had nothing to do with the rims; I had mounted one set of tires and then had to pull them off and exchange for a different set due to a problem with two tires and then ultimately replacements weren't available.

TBH I haven't washed the truck in a while heh... But the last time I did the rims were still shiny under the muck. I was just thinking it might be good to clean them off though and see, so I'll post an update when I'm not up in the mountains in a few days. 7 months old and it has probably been washed twice Maybe it would be a good evaluation of durability if I washed it!! Lol

 

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ZooDad

 

Got it thank you!

I'm leveled 2.5" so I'm thinking going with 295/65R20 (35X11.80) vs. the 275/65R20 (34x11) that you guys have. That being said, I will be .80" closer than you guys between the duals. I know Wabba said he has about 1.5" between the duals, would it be to much trouble to get an actual measurement before I order the tires? Maybe see if a 2x4 will slide between them? If it truly is 1.5" then I would still have a 3/4" gap which will be sufficient I think

 

2x4 just slides right in there. I think there is enough variation in tires that YMMV with this one. 3/4" clearance is getting a little tight IMO depending on what tires you go with/how much the flex and how much weight you will carry. You don't need much room, just don't want them to ever touch if you're loaded bouncing down the road. That said with 20" rims you won't have a massive sidewall anyway and I bet bulge even loaded will be pretty minimal.

 

Did any of you with JK 20” wheels have both rears “faced” to bring the wheels in as much as possible?

The shanked lugs provided appear to be bottoming out and not seating up to the outer wheel face for me. I had both rears (all 4) shaved down/faced which when speaking with Jon seemed to be out of the norm compared to most orders.

I can’t see how I am missing anything, although it was late and this was my last step. I want at least a few shanked lugs to tie the inner/outer together but the factory studs did seem to have enough meat on them. My ideal plan would be to run every other lug oem/shanked.

 

I just got my 20" JK classics mounted last night, I did not have mine shaved down. My wheels came with flat faced sleeved lug nuts, it looks like yours are the acorn style. Maybe Wabba & zoodad can chime in to see what kind of nuts they got? It looks like your factory lugs have enough bite on them but I think you better find some sleeved lug nuts to use as you likely still have very little hub left. I dont believe my lug holes are beveled like yours?

 

I spoke with JK/Jon and he just confirmed they are going to send a different lug to account for the faced wheels.

 

@fleming23
How much were you able to get them faced. When I spoke with Jon about it he said I “might” gain maybe a 1/4” max.
curious of how much of a difference it made.

That shanked lug definitely doesn’t look right.

ZooDad

 

I have a new F350. But I removed the factory front 6” spacer and put a SRW offset rim on the front. Supposedly a lot of benefits from doing that from what I hear. Maybe you could do that for an 450? I know you have 10 lugs but how many are there after you take the spacer off? I do know the lug pattern for mine changed on the front after removing the spacer. Went from a 8x200 to a 8x170 pattern. Y’all be nice because replies can be helpful to me and others because I honestly don’t know much about the 450s except they turn sharper and have more lugs and usually less payload ratings of the 350s.

In the pics these are all 35x12.5x20s. Rear rims are 20x8.25 and the front is I think a 20x9. No lift, no rubbing after took off the front mud flap which I am trimming a corner and will put back on. The rear spacing is better than I thought because I was worried about them being too close together. It’s borderline though lol. Maybe a 35x11.5 or 12 would’ve been better on the rear. I just wanted them all the same size for all 6 tires.

 

I believe 1/4" is correct, not enough to bring the wheel in all the way, but I wanted every bit I could get. I can't stand the wheel to stick out, just not my style. It has kept me from ordering wheels for, well years now. Looking at pictures others have shared (of the JK wheels anyway - not anything from DDC), mine looks pretty similar, but 1/4" isn't going to be terribly noticeable I suppose.

 

Fleming, that looks very tolerable. I'm just curious if they have any idea how much strength is lost, load carrying-wise, buy removing the material? I'm assuming they removed 1/8th inch from each wheel?

Did that not result in having enough hub exposed to keep a hub-centric mount? I thought someone mentioned they were still hub-centric even with the normal JK wheels?

 

I'm not confident anyone has done any actual verifiable testing so I wouldn't trust any numbers discussed or thrown out by either the vendor or customers. For my use/purposes, I don't (currently) have any concern though. The wheel is still very thick as far as material goes, even after milling down each rear wheel. It was my understanding that .25" was milled from each wheel, and I did take a measurement with my caliper but I completely forgot to record the data to compare. When I pulled an un-milled front from the shipping box, it was readily apparent that the wheel flange was quite a bit thicker. I can confirm this by the end of the weekend as I only installed the driver-side. I can also secure the rear inner with a lug nut and take a better picture of the hub flange should it prove useful.

This was the original steel inner. No lugs, just resting on the hub, but sort of still "stuck" in place.


This is the new aluminum inner but it is worth noting that the wheel was also just sitting in place with no lugs. I think I may have had my foot on the tire to keep it generally in place, but it is possible a touch more hub would be visible if the inner was actually secured.

And this shows the Balance Master on top of the inner. Still some lip showing on that hub....enough, I am not sure.

 

So when you purchase these wheels from JK, are they providing sleeve nuts the same as are demonstrated in this video? This is my first dually, and I've ever used Sleeved nuts before.