Hey!
Could really use some help... It was the first time for me changing the rear axle seal. Bought brand-new seals Motorcraft (BRS-193) which according to Rock auto should fit my 1999 F 250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD. Cleaned everything up and followed the instructions. Reinstalled everything back, and torqued that special nut (with teeth) to 60 ft/Lb adjusting 7 clicks back, as I was using old bearings. The Hub is hard to turn, and it squeaks, rubber to metal contact. Adjusting more than 7 clicks back, like 12-14, eliminates the sound, but I'm not risking leaving it like that. Can someone advise on what I have done wrong? Is that seal stationary? I'm thinking may be some oil greased the rubber part, and it is slipping?
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

* Video in the attachments.

 

Hmm, I'm not a lot of help but here's a bump for you.

I looked at pics online and it looks like the BRS193 is a Scotseal style that rotates within itself? I can't tell conclusively from pics.

If you're sure you got it together correctly I'd top off the gear oil and go for a spin -- if it's truly rubber on metal you're hearing. Or pull it apart and lube the spindle where seal seats and/or soak the seals in ATF or gear oil.

 

Thanks!
Yea, I have a second seal, for the other side, it does ride within itself. I mean, there is not much to it... I sat the seal in the hub using a plank, so it would go in evenly, did not touch the seal itself or damage it in any way. Checked that it went all the way in too. then i just put it all back together. Old seal looked a bit different from BRS-193 though. One on the other side, that I have not replaced yet, rides very smooth.

 

Before you install the 2nd seal I'd submerge and soak it overnight (or a couple hours) in ATF or gear oil.

 

I see. Also, are you supposed to put this washer in? In the video, they said it was part of the original seal, did not see them installing it, could not find it on the schematics either.

The washer that was on top of rear inner bearing, right after the seal

The washer that was on top of rear inner bearing, right after the seal

 

That's the oil slinger and should be installed on the inner bearing prior to driving in the new seal. I assume you removed the inner portion of of the old seal from the Spindle prior to reinstalling the new seal & hub? That part for me took the longest of the job. Also did you pack the bearings with grease or diff oil? Either way is acceptable.

 

Yea, took me some time, but i took it off. Cleaned the sealing surface thoroughly as well, so no leftovers of the old seal were left. Lubed the sealing surface ->soaked both bearings in gear oil -> put the hub back on -> added some gear oil in between the bearing -> put the outer bearing in -> put the hub nut on and torqued to recommended specs. Did not install the washer... SMH. From now on, will double-check the information on how to instructions, but I think that has nothing to do with the squeaking.

 

You need to install the oil slinger between the seal and the bearing. The tabs point inward toward the bearing It's job is to keep excess oil from the seal; running without it will eventually cause the seal to leak.

My Ford service manual (98-05) says to clean the seal surface on the spindle with "600 grit crocus cloth" (AKA emery cloth) to remove rust and scale, You need to see shiny metal about 1/8 inch past the line the old seal left so there is no chance rust will get into the new seal and eat it up. Following the general rule that you lubricate a seal with the same product it is sealing, I used (new) 85W140 gear oil on both the spindle and the seal. I used National Oil Seals on mine with no problems. One hub had 50K miles with a National seal before I installed a Ford e-locker in my differential and replaced it in the process.

Honestly, I don't think following these suggestions will really quiet your seals, but they will help them maintain a seal. I wish you luck! I had a horrendous squeal once with the axle tube dust seals on my front axle when I used a substitute seal on them and the only remedy that worked was to replace them with Motorcraft seals. Maybe the OEM style will be quieter, but it seems odd that the seals listed for replacement aren't quiet!