Making assumption that your '85 is the same as an '86.

On the vacuum lines in question, they all originate on the vacuum "tree" on the manifold (see pic) There are three hard plastic tubes, the two red ones and a black one that is hidden in the photo. Black is to MAP and needs to be intact. One red line needs to be intact and run to the fuel pressure regulator. The other red line goes to vacuum reservoir where the solenoid valves are mounted on the passenger side fender. You can cap this one off for now. The reservoir supplies steady vacuum to those solenoid valves, two thermactor and two EGR. The black line on top left in pic goes to heating and AC system. The HVAC system has a tendency to leak but it will not have much effect on starting your engine.


Lines originate at MAN VAC


Fuel regulator

Wouldn't run great but would start. Your truck's problem IMO is timing. Engine with good spark that you describe should fire the engine even if the timing is ten degrees off,
That said, timing should be set at 10° BTDC with spout disconnected.

The black line is to the MAP. I assume you reconnected the coupling?

 

Thank you diggerrigger, that is great info. The chart will really help.
The fuel pressure regulator has not had vacuum for several days now, Will it work without vacuum?

 

Yes, it will still allow some pressure to build
Your truck should have the same decal on the radiator support. The decal also shows correct timing and firing order

 

Here's that sticker from my 1986.







I'll ask again, are you sure, " you verified #1 TDC ON COMPRESSION STROKE." That is very important, remember I said it's easy to get it 180 out.






Here's my dizzy cap.



FWIW,

 

I think I know what the problem is and it is an easy 30 minute fix.
The weather here is bad with high winds and freezing rain. so I have to wait for it to clear due to the mud,,the truck is in a field.
I'll keep the members posted on what I find.
**************************
The Vacuum lines at the fender well are a mess and Patric is trying to repair the two important ones as I write this. The MAP type device and the Fuel pressure regulator lines are in pieces due to dry rot.
Thank you to all those who have helped so far.

 

The sparkplugs should be wet with fuel after all this cranking. I think I would take some brake cleaner and shoot it into the engine and see if tries to run on that. If it does, you have a fuel problem.

 

I am on the same wagon wrong stroke for the spark.
easy enough to check pull #1 plug finger over hole and tap the key till you feel air push your finger off hole.
Check timing marks and line up to TDC.
Now pull cap and see where the rotor is pointing to.
If you were right it should be pointing to #1 if not the distributor will need to be pulled and rotor turned to #1 and dropped back in to see if it starts.
Dave ----

 

Merry Christmas everyone!
I spent the day at his house and re-did the timing from the get go. We did pull the plug on #1 cylinder and verify it was on compression stroke. The Spout connector was apart and the engine turned over. The engine caught instantly and ran well with the static timing set to 10 degrees BTDC. We allowed the engine to warm up and rechecked the timing,still on 10 degrees.
The Spout was re-connected and engine started. The timing at idle jumps to 12 degrees BTDC by the computer. Reeving the engine and the timing marks go out of sight.
The idle is pretty good even with the vacuum lines plugged ( still broken ) No CEL light. A several mile drive at normal throttle and "floored" .proved to be very smooth and strong. No pinging was noted under any load.
Patric still needs to repair the vacuum lines. He will be asking questions here on what can be removed from the engines smog control or vacuum line wise that is really not needed. Being the truck is so old it is not tested for smog anymore.
Thanks again for all your help. I had not worked on a V-8 gas engine since 1968.

 

I found the connections to the ECM had corroded. The connections are on on the Driver Side Fender. I worked the connections apart and back together sever times, and used PB Blaster. Engine started right up. It did take me two years and replacing all ignition parts in the process. Eventually I straight wired the plugs as the engine would stop till I reworked the connections. No problems with spark since.

 

Good to hear you got it running do you know what the fix was?
Dave ----

 

My name is Patrick I am new here, well 1985 Ford F-150 4x4 Lariat XLT is no longer dead thanks to Rapid Rob and all those here who posted with ideas Solutions can any other sort of help. Some of you went out and brave the cold out here garages out near yards outside to help some guy you don't even know, thank you all so very much for your efforts and your patience and just for being an all-around swell bunch of guys.
this great old truck when we first started working on it, was derelict except for almost for well over 20 years at which point it had 27000 original miles on it it was my dad's truck and well my moms too, they only used to use it for hunting and fishing we don't live far from great fishing or hunting. My dad became ill and could no longer see and he wasn't about to let anybody touch his truck.. fast forward my parents are gone now I took care of them for almost 20 years and was rewarded with the house the property and all within and without. It took some effort to get her running but you passed emissions first time around after all that time, the only thing I've added a new rear gas tank tires coil and distributor. Rob is the most excellent to friends didn't charge me a damn dime although he did complain a lot and ask for food all the time.. all kidding aside thank you all so very much God bless it's a great place you got here very happy to be part of it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

 

Welcome to the Forum. As you have found out, we're here to help.

 

X2
Welcome to FTE
Dave ----

 

Several questions with your fixes are needed :
The vacuum leaks have been taped shut to allow a lees lean burn in the cylinders. The "Spaghetti" vacuum lines are in such a bad shape they need to be replaced due to dry rot.
What have you done to replace these lines? How did you mount them to the vacuum relays?
Can any of the vacuum relays be removed without the ECU throwing out an error?
****************************************
Can the SMOG belt driven Air Pump be removed? Errors if so?
Any photos would be a great help of the vacuum repairs and pump removal / capping the firrings

As posted, this truck is old enough that it is no longer checked for emissions by the state.

 

Rob / Pat,

Wish I could answer the question(s) on the removal of parts but I dont know enough about the EFI motor & system to be of help.
I am sure someone that dose will be by to answer that.
Dave ----