1985 F150 302 died......
#31
Max, thank you for your time and effort taking the photos. It does help.
We are so close to having his engine running if we can find just what is stopping it from running?
The inertia/crash switch, under the dash has a white plunger that is sticking up/out. It does not stay down when pressed in. Is this normal?
The switch cuts the fuel out or what?
We are so close to having his engine running if we can find just what is stopping it from running?
The inertia/crash switch, under the dash has a white plunger that is sticking up/out. It does not stay down when pressed in. Is this normal?
The switch cuts the fuel out or what?
#34
When I removed the dizzy, I lined up the timing marks, removed the cap and marked the rotor location for plug 1, the dizzy location to to engine bolts, and how far the rotor moved when the dizzy was pulled out. Was this right or have I missed something? With the lack of space for the dizzy, it just clears a engine cooling casting and cannot be turned too far in either direction.
#37
Yes, he has that connector. With that said, you disconnect the plug and then do what for the timing, I may have jumped over a step? I read an a short sentence it stops some advancement? No details what so ever written as what to do next His distributor looks to be in the exact same position.
#38
It makes sense that you have the correct timing. One way to check is to remove the cap, note where the rotor is, then rotate the crank by hand and see how the rotor follows.
#39
Yes, he has that connector. With that said, you disconnect the plug and then do what for the timing, I may have jumped over a step? I read an a short sentence it stops some advancement? No details what so ever written as what to do next His distributor looks to be in the exact same position.
#40
#41
Thank you for the link.....
For a static ignition timing IF the engine will not RUN, do you pull the "spout connector" apart?????
I can see if the engine is running and there is a feed back to the ECU but it is not running?
I did do that at crank over only and saw no difference where the timing marks were illuminated by the timing light....Years ago you would pull the vacuum line off of the vacuum advance device and static set the timing,then hook back up the vacuum device and the timing would adjust as needed for RPM and the like.I'm still not convinced the ECU is causing the problem killing the "run" signal. The plug is Gray and not blue or Black.
I'm in the Twilight Zone for sure.
For a static ignition timing IF the engine will not RUN, do you pull the "spout connector" apart?????
I can see if the engine is running and there is a feed back to the ECU but it is not running?
I did do that at crank over only and saw no difference where the timing marks were illuminated by the timing light....Years ago you would pull the vacuum line off of the vacuum advance device and static set the timing,then hook back up the vacuum device and the timing would adjust as needed for RPM and the like.I'm still not convinced the ECU is causing the problem killing the "run" signal. The plug is Gray and not blue or Black.
I'm in the Twilight Zone for sure.
#44
The engine is EFI.
The rotor was set up by the timing marks and verifying the rotor was pointing at spark plug number 1.
I used a timing light as the engine was cranked on the #1 spark plug and the light fired on the timing marks..
Taking the valve cover off is not an option.
I did not do the "thumb-test " over the plug hole.
The rotor was set up by the timing marks and verifying the rotor was pointing at spark plug number 1.
I used a timing light as the engine was cranked on the #1 spark plug and the light fired on the timing marks..
Taking the valve cover off is not an option.
I did not do the "thumb-test " over the plug hole.
If the distributor is 180° out, it will still fire at the correct mark on the balancer. But on the wrong stroke. You cannot verify 180° out with the light. Thumb on #1 is easiest way.
Post a photo of the top of the distributor with cap on. I'm curious.
#45