Max, thank you for your time and effort taking the photos. It does help.
We are so close to having his engine running if we can find just what is stopping it from running?
The inertia/crash switch, under the dash has a white plunger that is sticking up/out. It does not stay down when pressed in. Is this normal?
The switch cuts the fuel out or what?

 

The rotor is pointing to plug one when the timing marks are in line. Does the distributor spark twice each plug for a full rotation of the crank?

 

That has been talked about before...Damn if I can remember where.

Karl or Dave F should find this thread soon, they will know.

Found it

 

When I removed the dizzy, I lined up the timing marks, removed the cap and marked the rotor location for plug 1, the dizzy location to to engine bolts, and how far the rotor moved when the dizzy was pulled out. Was this right or have I missed something? With the lack of space for the dizzy, it just clears a engine cooling casting and cannot be turned too far in either direction.

 

Thanks MAX for the book photo. The fuel pump is running when ignition is turned on. So in a crash this switch turns off the fuel instantly?

 

Here's mine.


Here's the connector you unplug to time the engine.

 

Yes, he has that connector. With that said, you disconnect the plug and then do what for the timing, I may have jumped over a step? I read an a short sentence it stops some advancement? No details what so ever written as what to do next His distributor looks to be in the exact same position.

 

It makes sense that you have the correct timing. One way to check is to remove the cap, note where the rotor is, then rotate the crank by hand and see how the rotor follows.

 

I seem to recall, with that unplugged, you set the timing, then plug that back in.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ing-spout.html

That may help.

 

Thank you for the link.....
For a static ignition timing IF the engine will not RUN, do you pull the "spout connector" apart?????
I can see if the engine is running and there is a feed back to the ECU but it is not running?
I did do that at crank over only and saw no difference where the timing marks were illuminated by the timing light....Years ago you would pull the vacuum line off of the vacuum advance device and static set the timing,then hook back up the vacuum device and the timing would adjust as needed for RPM and the like.I'm still not convinced the ECU is causing the problem killing the "run" signal. The plug is Gray and not blue or Black.
I'm in the Twilight Zone for sure.

 

OK, I'm confused. When you turn on the ignition for the first time of the day, the fuel pump runs...... does it run for a set time or does it run until the fuel rails are charged under pressure?

 

The fuel pump runs for a set time, about two seconds. This is long enough to fully pressurize a system in good working order.

 

I apologize if I missed it but I didn't see where you verified #1 TDC ON COMPRESSION STROKE.
If the distributor is 180° out, it will still fire at the correct mark on the balancer. But on the wrong stroke. You cannot verify 180° out with the light. Thumb on #1 is easiest way.

Post a photo of the top of the distributor with cap on. I'm curious.

 

Thank you for the pump info. It may be that gas is not getting to the injectors for some reason even though the fuel rails are under pressure. Ill have him pull the coil wire and turn the engine over and crack a fuel injector to see if gas is present at the injectors.