My continuing saga...I knew there would be some differences, but my rod-linkage conversion from the stock 2 barrel carb doesn't "communicate" well with the 4 barrel Edelbrock that I want to use. As-in - there are no similarities whatsoever between the linkage for the 2 and 4 barrel and the offset difference make me wonder how people who have done this, could have had any kind of success at all. My rod linkage just doesn't have that much lateral movement to take up the width difference between the two carburetors. I believe I purchased the correct lever to install on the new-to-me Edelbrock 1405, but something just seems really wrong...
Any ideas?
Geoff

View from the side 4 barrel (left) - 2 barrel (right)

Mounting holes aligned, there is an obvious width difference that the linkage is being asked to make up.

Another view of how the linkage rod used to align.

The alignment of the linkage rod that you see here, used to align perfectly with the old 2 barrel Ford carb.

 

Your going to need a longer rod that you can bend to fit

 

Another suggestion would be to use studs with nuts and washers on the valve covers. It will save a lot leak problems due to hole depth differences.

 

Pick up a length of all-thread rod from the hardware store to make it fit. Then you can find a better one later.

 

Christmas and Rich:

So nothing is wrong, other than the fact that I need to fabricate the correct linkage and it's OK to fabricate an offset linkage? So 2 lengths of allthread with an offset link between them to make it over to one of those 3 holes on that outer lever?

 

A link isn't necessary just bend it to fit.

 

Understood. Thank you!!

Geoff

 

Geoff,

Just to be annoyingly thorough. You should first mount the carb and then check if the pedal has the correct travel. So off the pedal, butterflies are closed, pedal on floor, the secondary is full open. To ADD travel, you can extend the gas pedal rod (the piece attached directly to the pedal). Making this longer, increases the travel if you are not getting the secondary open (also makes it more sensitive). If you bend this pedal rod to jog the linkage over to the new carb, it will get a little shorter. You should be fine, but may have to extend the rod a little to clear the aftermarket intake manifold that sits a little higher than the stock. To extend it, just weld on (or use fasteners) a short extension piece.

 

PCM,

Thanks for that. In the pictures, I have a box under the pedal about the height that I'd like to start at. I just need to make sure that when the pedal is mashed, that everything opens as it should. Looks like I have some fabbing to do tomorrow!

Geoff

 

Use a piece of heavy wire to get the length and bends that you need to make it work for the all-thread.

 

If you can don't use all-thread. Use bare rod and thread it. Cheaper and easier to use.

 

Rich and Christmas;

Both great suggestions. Thank you!

Geoff

 

Be advised the rod ends are likely 1/4-28 or 1/4-20 thread... likely the former.

Better yet, bring one with you to the hardware store.

 

HIO,
Good eye...1/4" -28 thread it is.
One last question for the group: Is the throttle lever that I have put on this Edelbrock even the correct one. I but that I can bend a new throttle linkage to fit...but man: look at the offset difference in the kickdown lever stud! I know that many have taken the kickdown off and that's what they run, as did I for a while, but I was looking forward to hooking it back up and getting it functional again. The kickdown vs no-kickdown I'll leave for discussion another day, but for now: is that Edelbrock lever even correct?

Geoff
FE 360
C6 Tranny

 

Holley makes an extension for the kickdown going from 2V to 4V. It will fit your rod and Eddy carb. Part number 20-41.


They say to bend over the tabs but I prefer a nut and bolt.