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Busted my heater core on the way to the dump this past weekend. Started smelling burning coolant and was hoping I had a leaking hose under the hood..... Nope, by the time I was on the way home I started getting a nice puddle of coolant in the passenger footwell.
Oh well, at least I hear they aren't bad on these trucks.
Yep going into rut here and the vultures are having a field day. Pigs too. I had a similar dent on the door and I got it out. Pour a good bucket of hot water on the dent and use a bathroom plunger. The bed is more likely to come out than the other but try them too if this one works. Good Luck and your truck is looking good.
Yep going into rut here and the vultures are having a field day. Pigs too. I had a similar dent on the door and I got it out. Pour a good bucket of hot water on the dent and use a bathroom plunger. The bed is more likely to come out than the other but try them too if this one works. Good Luck and your truck is looking good.
That dent in the bed was worked on by the previous owner. Looks like he took a hammer from behind. Something way beyond what a plunger would take. It is just an old farm truck that is surprisingly clean for being in the rust belt its entire life
I understand. The hammer didn't do it any help to get it out with the plunger. My dent was BIG and the plunger worked. I was surprised but so happy as my dent came from stupidity.
Well, to add to this old thread. I did a few things I've been wanting to catch up on for a long time.
I pulled the IAT sensor to clean it. Surprisingly, it was very clean, with only a light mist on it that came right off with throttle body cleaner. The ohms check out perfectly using an Infared temp gun and a multi-meter, both at 70 degree ambient temperature, and on the shelf of the freezer. Blocking of the EGR many years ago has really kept the intake and throttle body clean. This is the original 1987 sensor too.
Changed the brake booster that's been hissing for a few years when I use the brakes.
Rechecked the TPS voltage, set the timing after verifying the balancer is showing correct TDC.
Put in the kick panels I restored last year, but never got around to dying the right color. They are still black instead of blue, but looks better than not having any at all.
Was going to change the clutch slave cylinder just because the one there is original, and the clutch seems harder to push. The clutch master was changed a couple of years ago.
While under there, I depressed the clutch fork arm to remove the slave, and I was able to push it in easily, so it appears it's not dragging inside any from wear. I came to the conclusion it's just me getting old and weak making the pedal harder to push.
Next week I will change oil. As I said, I'm old, and now tired today, and wife has plans for me tomorrow.......
I borrowed from the 6.0 coolant filter world where everyone likes the IPR "full flow" setup to prevent oil cooler clogging but made my own using the same filter.
Instead of a bypass off the heater circuit this goes in series. Flow is head->filter->core->return.
Did a prototype with perforated angle shaped up in the mill, plus the cheap bracket that comes with the filter base. From this I'll take some measurements and make a single piece that's more rigid and better finished.
With this setup I don't need to buy filters, this one is 30 micron stainless mesh that can be disassembled and cleaned.
No hose clamps because it's all coming back apart.
In the final design I'm thinking about clocking the filter housing 90 degrees. I think the hose routing now is fine, but clocked 90 degrees the 2 hoses to the heater core could run in parallel pretty much all the way up to where the word 'Mexico' is now on the return hose. I could also then use some nice hose separators to make it that touch more tidy. The outlet 90* fitting on the filter would point straight back, and the 180* fitting would still do what it's doing. This would also enable using all 4 of the mounting points for the filter base.
That would put the inlet hose right on top of the washer fill cap. I need to see if that washer reservoir can move over.
Adding to what I did last week, I did change out the clutch slave cylinder. Afterward, I adjusted the clutch rod to master cylinder distance to almost zero. Clutch is much easier to depress, and releases where it should, instead of next to the floor.
I also removed the brake master cylinder and adjusted the brake booster plunger until there was virtually no distance between the plunger and the master cylinder. This gave me a much higher pedal engagement without any dragging of the brakes.
Today I dropped the fuel tank and changed the complete fuel tank pump and sensor. I also installed new rubber onto the tank straps and mounting brackets at the top.
After almost 30 years, the fuel gauge works at what appears the correct reading.
The things I have repaired/fixed, are things that I have lived with over the years I have owned this truck. Everything worked, but not as it should. I have taken this time to make things right mechanically. Next is an oil change and grease after I go on an extended drive to flush any moisture and crud out of the engine. I may do this later today.
There are a few more things I want to maintain to keep this truck in top mechanical condition. This way when I either give it to my oldest son and grandson, or they inherit it, the mechanics will be mostly be done, and they can concentrate on the bodywork, as this is the field they both work in.
They really want this truck, and I want them to have it. But, the more I improve it, and with the price of new/newer 4wd drive trucks, they may end up inheriting it...lol
Trying to figure out why the AC clutch only engages in the regular AC mode, and I get no power to any of the pressure switches or the clutch in "Max AC" mode. From what I've seen, you can't just get that switch, you replace the whole climate control module... ugh.
I wonder if I can get the switch apart to repair it.
ETA: Switch is crispy it crumpled apart. Looks like PN: F4TH-19D961-AA available online made in China, haven't called a dealer yet.
11-17-2021 | 06:58 AM
