I pulled engine codes. All 11's. Then I disconnected the negative battery to erase the keep alive memory.
A little over a week ago, I discovered a missing E clip at my throttle linkage. I replaced the E clip last week but on start up, the truck would go to 1500 RPM for about 45 seconds.
After reconnecting the battery, I've driven it and started it several times. Every start up has been 1000 RPM then drops to 700.
I think the linkage not resting on the throttle stop screw was confusing the ECM.
I also redid the vacuum line connections after having rubber reducers split repeatedly. I used 1/4" vacuum hose on the steel nipples, then reduced it down with rubber elbows and plastic barbed fittings.

New E clip on the throttle linkage post

Different vacuum line connections

 

Replaced two fuel injectors and flushed the others with carb cleaner. This is the "spray pattern" of one of the injectors I replaced:


And one of the good ones for comparison:

I suspect I was having a pretty bad misfire. Especially when giving it low throttle in second gear and up, the entire truck would shake wildly. With the replaced injectors, it's running the smoothest since I've owned it.

I have ordered these newer four-port style injectors off of eBay. Once they get here, I will replace all 8 injectors and return the two I put in today to the Junkyard. I'm hoping to gain a MPG or two from the upgrade.

Also put in a vacuum check valve to my retrofitted A/C system from a 94 F-150, for the vent/defrost door. Whenever I open the throttle too much going uphill, air is diverted to the window defroster instead of the vents facing me. I'm suspecting because said door doesn't get enough vacuum under that condition. Yet to be tested that that is fixed with the check valve.

 

Checked my transmission fluid, just to keep an eye on it. It was good.
Checked my passenger side rear brake shoes, because Tuesday evening I drove about 10 miles without the parking brake released completely. The brake pedal was just slightly pushed, so I got lucky there.
Changed the RABS valve and the two lines that go to it. The rear line was in rough shape. I saved the original RABS valve. I had been getting the flashing brake trouble light from time to time.
I discovered that my heater hose is touching my EGR tube. I don't think the heater hose is routed as factory. I put a triple layer of heat shield tape there for now.

The old and new brake lines.

EGR tube and heater hose touching.

Heat shield tape until I can do something different.

 

hey man! Wanted to say I am in the business of preserving my 96f150 and have worked it from top to bottom. Completely redid the AC system except for lines. I did replace all the rings. Honestly, the only REAL problem it had before the replacement was the orifice tube leaked. It was a b**** to find. Super easy to replace once I found it though! Hope this helps

 

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. so far the only place see leaking is the high pressure shrader valve. I'll start there in the spring and see how it does.

 

Picked up a good overflow tank to replace mine that’s broke like everyone ever.

 

I had the smog pump bypassed. Mine was breaking, and new smog pumps are not available. I did not know my truck has such a thing. I searched here and other sites to learn all it does is dilute the exhaust. To do that it makes the truck do more work, reduces mpg, and increases pollution. But it doesn't do that anymore on my truck. And now I have a new belt.

 

Ultimately you arrived at the same solution many of us have, but I just wanna point out that its function is not to dilute the exhaust. When a working cat is present it gives the cat oxygens to add to the carbon monoxide to convert it to carbon dioxide and/or convert HC's into carbon oxides. Generally you must remove the cat at the same time as the pump, because without the pump it is likely to clog up.

 

Replaced the egr tube on my 96 5.0. No need to spend $100+ in the dorman part, I used an ultra power one off rock auto, $35.99, fit perfectly. Here's the old one

 

Likely the exact same part for way less money even. People get mad at Rock auto for shipping but I'm still able to cut my parts costs with shipping by half of the local guys. A lot of the "no name" parts are just factory or other brands reboxed. I got a knock sensor a year ago that was in some red box that had most of the Ford logo ground off of the plastic....

 

I use RA for a lot of stuff, and I always come out WAY ahead in money spent, even with shipping. I buy local for the smaller things or when it's within $10 or so of RA with the shipping. Not sure why people are willing to spend a lot more on the same parts.

 

This heater hose blew today. I knew it was rubbing the EGR tube, and had planned to replace it, so I did both heater hoses and changed the coolant. I put a few layers of heat shield tape between the new hose and the EGR tube.

The old hose.
I also figured out that my right rear parking brake cable is binding up, which has been causing the drum to overheat.
I ordered a new cable. Meantime, I unhooked the old cable and I'll just leave the truck in gear and chock the wheel.
I left the adjuster way to loose, so I adjusted it and the other side.

 

The factory cables are metal, and water gets in them and causes rust. The new aftermarket I put on mine were either plastic, or plastic coated.

Did it many years ago and no more dragging brakes, and the pedal is much easier to push.

Do both at once since the other is probably binding some also.

 

Replaced all four shocks in the driveway on Saturday.

 

I picked up a 79k mile 1991 F350 a few weeks ago. 460/E4OD 4.10's. I love it. Runs great, drive great. Took it on a 500+ mile trip to go race and it ran like a top and towed awesome. I have fixed a few thing that needed attention (brakes needed bleeding and front pads) but overall it's a great truck.