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I took the rear tank off and threw it away. I never used it, and when the resivor started filling up the rear tank, I found out the top had rust holes in it.
I also threw away the resivor, cut the fuel lines in front and behind going to the front tank, spliced in OEM type lines, and all has been well since. That was 2010 or 2011. I did take the lines off to the rear tank and pitched them too.
I took the rear tank off and threw it away. I never used it, and when the resivor started filling up the rear tank, I found out the top had rust holes in it.
I also threw away the resivor, cut the fuel lines in front and behind going to the front tank, spliced in OEM type lines, and all has been well since. That was 2010 or 2011. I did take the lines off to the rear tank and pitched them too.
I get that. This will be my second reservoir in 5 years.
When I bought the truck, the reservoir on it was missing the o ring that sits on the top flange.
In the process of replacing that o ring, one of the nipples broke off the reservoir. After I replaced the reservoir, there were times when I couldn't work on the truck, but I usually started it weekly and switched the tanks.
I'm going to try this replacement and see what happens.
The strange part is the on line reviews. Most are excellent for the reservoir I ordered, but maybe one or two out of ten say it was defective out of the box.
The cheaper reservoirs have across the board terrible reviews like "don't buy this, it's junk."
How did you know they were bad, was there audible knocking, or just bad oil pressure?
Love following this thread because it motivates me to go out and improve at least 1 thing on my truck every week. Today, did some work on the ugly one to get her set up to tow empty trailers. Fabricated an in-dash brake controller. Don't mind the stainless, that's just all I had lying around. Will paint it black later and hope the paint sticks. Then had time to run all the trailer wiring as necessary, and install a socket in the bumper. All my other junk is still 6-way plugs and I'm keeping them that way. Got a good used one from the junkyard since I've had awful results with the imported ones you can buy new these days.
Performed a really tough job on the ‘92. I changed the door switch so the dome light comes on when I open the door. What a tough job. Must have taken me all of 5 minutes.
Replaced both door striker bushings and tailgate latch bushings from Dennis Carpenter. No more rattle! For the door bushings you do have to file them down a little on the length. I used my dremel tool.
Started the day changing my dual function reservoir, since my rear tank was filling my front tank. Took it on two, fifteen mile test runs and so far so good.
I pulled the steering wheel, thinking I needed a new turn signal cancel cam.
I discovered that all I actually needed was this spring loaded pin that goes in the white bushing.
Got one free at the junk yard. Looked for two, but could only find one. The turn signals cancel and the truck passed state inspection. The pin from the junk yard. The pin goes in this bushing. The pin engages this keyway in the steering wheel.
Got some work done on my flatbed project this weekend:
Got the lift system off. Now it's time to get the flatbed slid up to the back of the cab and trim off the rear frame extensions. It was a tough job, but we got it done. Truck's already looking much better - even with that awkward gap between the cab and bed!
For those interested, this is a 1996 F-SuperDuty with the "fuel miser" 460 . Truck is in great condition and only has 88K on the ticker.
Very true! Only issue with that is, I want to throw a gooseneck hitch on under the flatbed for an equipment trailer. Won't be able to haul anything with that much overhang off the rear axle, so the bed's gotta move up.