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can’t wait to hear fuel mileage reports with that drivetrain installed.
haha, it appears that way in this thread, but in reality it's been in the works for some time (or at least feels so to me). Definitely hoping to keep the pace going though, so I can get her back on the road. I too am excited to see what sort of fuel mileage I will get out of it. Not to mention the improved performance and drivability. My wife is excited as well, as she will enjoy driving it too.
Got the 460/C6 combo pulled out over the weekend, and started cleaning up the wiring, weeding out what will go and what needs to stay. Pulled the engine mounts and steering box as well. Little bit left and then she's getting rolled outside so I can degrease and power wash the frame.
Anyone in the IL area in need of a 460/C6?
Got my Dakota Digital RTX gauges in, finally (the wait is long with them right now). Excited to work with these, as they come very highly recommended by custom builders.
New Wilwood brake booster and master cylinder with proportioning valve. Bolt on specific kit for these trucks, from Fat Fender Garage.
Some tig welded Godzilla engine mounts from Welder Series up in Canada. And a Godzilla lift plate from Billet Pro Shop.
Plenty other small bits and pieces I've collected, not pictured. Still waiting on more as well. Planning for the fab step this coming weekend, with the Godzilla, engine mounts and trans crossmember / mount.
Dakota Digital hit a home run with their support for these trucks. My VHX plugged right into the OBDII port and everything came to life. Took all of 5 minutes to calibrate the speedo dead nuts. Way more options than one would ever use. Looks right at home in our trucks. Money well spent.
Dakota Digital hit a home run with their support for these trucks. My VHX plugged right into the OBDII port and everything came to life. Took all of 5 minutes to calibrate the speedo dead nuts. Way more options that one would ever use. Looks right at home in our trucks. Money well spent.
That is the prevailing opinion I get when researching and asking around, about Dakota gauges. Great to hear more positive feedback from an end user.
I did get the BIM-01-2 OBD module to plug in, as I've heard it's a must have. I have been anxious to see for myself what info actually comes in and what does not though, as I've seen some opposing comments about whether or not you will get certain things, like the gear position or speedo through the Ford computer. Were you able to, or did you have to use the extra modules, like the GSS-3000 for gear position, and GPS-50-2 for speedo?
That is the prevailing opinion I get when researching and asking around, about Dakota gauges. Great to hear more positive feedback from an end user.
I did get the BIM-01-2 OBD module to plug in, as I've heard it's a must have. I have been anxious to see for myself what info actually comes in and what does not though, as I've seen some opposing comments about whether or not you will get certain things, like the gear position or speedo through the Ford computer. Were you able to, or did you have to use the extra modules, like the GSS-3000 for gear position, and GPS-50-2 for speedo?
I had to send in my BIM module as it didnt read everything. When I called Dakota they said they had a Coyote specific BIM and they exchanged it. It then read among 20 other things, gear position and speedo. I bought the GSS so I would have a 12v signal for reverse lights. Of course it will also display gear position for the display.
I had to send in my BIM module as it didnt read everything. When I called Dakota they said they had a Coyote specific BIM and they exchanged it. It then read among 20 other things, gear position and speedo. I bought the GSS so I would have a 12v signal for reverse lights. Of course it will also display gear position for the display.
Ohh, interesting, and good to know. I may get in touch with them and see if I need to do the same.
Originally Posted by somethingclever
Wheelman are you still planning a 4x4 swap as well in the future?
I have never had any intention of doing 4X4 swap on this truck. Actually, I specifically sought out a 2WD based on my plans for the truck and how I will use it. I'll have next to zero need for 4X4, and figured I could save the rotational mass, weight, moving parts, etc by having a 2WD. I just wanted the 4X4 look is all, haha.
Dentzilla's old fuel tanks are out, old fuel lines out, old brake booster and master cylinder and proportioning valve out. Lots of cleaning, degreasing, and sorting wires has been done. Time for some fab work this weekend, and make some progress on getting the Godzilla in place.
Was that A/C block off plate on the truck when you purchased? Are you going back with aftermarket A/C??
Interestingly enough, "The Infamous project" shop is only 70ish miles from my house. Might work out perfectly for my Godzilla wants. What I really like about this, it seems like all the accessories are included with the drop out.
What are you going to have to do with the body side of the wiring harness? I guess its all recalibrated in a tune to eradicate limp mode?
Yep the truck had that aftermarket AC system when I bought it. Heater box long gone, haha. The compressor said "Old Air Products" on it, but not sure if the system was all that brand or maybe Vintage Air, not certain. I'll be installing a new Restomod Air system from Fat Fender Garage, once the engine swap is complete. Already swapped the stock Godzilla ac compressor with a Sanden SD7 compressor and mounting kit from Power By The Hour, for R134a compatibility.
That's awesome you're so close to TIP, super convenient if you grab a setup from him. If you do, and opt for the essentials package as well, you're in for a fully complete plug and play setup. Just have to supply the fuel system and cooling system.
TIP / Godzilla Garage terminate the harness at the body, leaving only the engine harness with OBD II port, and they unlock and custom tune the factory ford PCM for standalone.
Got some good work done this weekend. Engine & trans are sitting nicely in their final places. They will have to come out at least once more, so I can clean up all the fab work, and shoot it with some paint. Hopefully after that, it will be in for good though.
I was able to use the original trans cross member, as I was hoping. It worked out nicely too, I'm quite happy with it.
It had a raised center section, which I cut out, and welded a flat in, to make it flat for mounting the new trans to it.
Mounting holes for the new transmission
I had to add a little radius to the sides of the mounting surface of the trans mounting bracket, as the flat section of my cross member was a little too narrow. Worked out nicely though.
I used a 1/4" thick piece of rubber between the transmission and the cross member, to isolate them. Just used some scrap tire I had laying around for now. I will get some nicer rubber at some point and make proper pieces.
There is an identical section of rubber I sandwiched behind this metal plate and the bottom of the crossmember, to isolate it as well. I kept the holes in that plate and both sections of rubber tight tolerance, but made the holes in the cross member oversized, so hopefully I get good isolation from the transmission to the crossmember/frame.
Clearances all ended up really good once I got it sitting where I wanted it.
The stock oil pan made it a tricky job getting the whole setup in the truck though. Had to have the engine hoist so high to clear the front crossmember, that the transmission wanted to hit the tunnel, and the engine wanted to hit the firewall when the trans tipped down to find it's way in.
Super easy access to the engine oil filter, nice little bonus.
Decided to fill in this hole in the engine crossmember for an additional engine mount baseplate mounting hole. The silver sharpie boxes are what I decided on for engine mount base plate size and location. I did utilize a few of the existing holes, rather than continue turning it into swiss cheese.
Baseplates for the engine mounts roughed out and bolted to the frame. I prefer bolt in engine mounts, as I didn't want to weld mounts to my frame. Just a personal preference. The plates are large, but they're 3/16" steel and keeping them large made it easy to make sure the mounts landed on them when I got the engine back in and tacked the mounting tabs on.
I cut the extra long tabs down, that you get with the Welder Series Godzilla engine mount kit, and tacked them in place, then pulled the engine/trans again so I could fully weld up the mounts, and then put the engine/trans back in.
They're not pretty tig welds, but they're solid and will do their job. As previously mentioned, I will clean them up and shoot them with some paint next time I have the engine/trans out. A little rough looking now but they will look better when I'm done.
This lift plate from Billet Pro Shop was perfect. Made life a lot easier than bolting to the front/back of the heads.
Plenty of clearance on both sides for the exhaust. Biggest bummer I was not expecting though, is no room for my steering gearbox. Something I had not planned for, that will now need reconfigured. But that's life in this world. My first thought is to switch to a Bronco gearbox, which mounts further forward, and on the outside of the frame rail, and move my steering linkage to the front, instead of in rear. If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions, I'm open to hearing them.
Exhaust work will be a breeze, haha
Turned out to take longer (more hours invested) than I expected, to get to this point, but she's in. Now time for the details.
03-30-2022 | 11:24 AM
