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Thanks for the info.
I have said many times, when doing a restomod it takes me 75 percent of the time to figure out what I need to do, and 25 percent of the time to actually do it.
Since the fuses are already wired, did you put the inertia switch on the output of the relay,(in line) to the fuel pump?
Yes, the power feed for the pump coming off the relay inline with the Inertia switch. Your pump will have a ground as well that you could put it inline with as well. While we're on the subject of fuel. In lieu of a separate fuel pressure regulator and a fuel filter, I used a Corvette C-5 regulator filter combo that came with AN-6 fittings. Very cheap and can be had at any auto parts store should it ever need replacing. Keeps pressure at 58psi. The picture below depicts a 3/8 pressure and 5/16 return, I purchased one having both 3/8 pressure and return. Up to you.
I did not know if the inertia switch was rated for the current draw of the fuel pump. Now it makes sense why you put yours on the frame rail. I think that I will do the same.
I already have my fuel system finished. I wanted a PWM system but the fabrication company that did my fuel tank put in a return system fuel pump. It is a good thing because the PBH control pack does not work with a PWM system.
I am using the stock Ford F-150 cast iron exhaust manifolds. I know I can get more power with a custom exhaust, but I figure it will be pushing 450 horsepower with the better tune, 3 inch exhaust, and no cats. These old trucks are so light that I really do not need more power. I can change them later if I am not happy. I just need to get a custom transition piece to go from the factory manifolds to my 3” stainless exhaust.
I used the cast manifolds as well with three inch exhaust, high flow cats, dual inlet/outlet 3" Magnaflow dumping in front of the axle and it was both head turning and deafening. I purchased a "Walker" universal ball flange to transition from the manifold to the pipe, so nothing custom needed for my application. The one in the below link isn't for 3" but rather an example.
Whatever I use for a transition piece, I need to have a threaded bung put in for the O2 sensors.
Once I get the exhaust run, the fresh air intake installed, the radiator filled, and the control pack installed and wired, it should be ready to fire up.
Whatever I use for a transition piece, I need to have a threaded bung put in for the O2 sensors.
Once I get the exhaust run, the fresh air intake installed, the radiator filled, and the control pack installed and wired, it should be ready to fire up.
I bought the threaded O2 bungs for the sensors from Amazon and drilled a hole about 18" downstream of the collector and welded the bungs in. Very easy and cheap.
The mustang stock headers can be had for cheap and I used the off-road mid pipes that had the bungs already welded in.
Slight advantage can be seen. I wasn’t sure which I would need so had both on hand. After this pic I was like I hope the mustang ones work. Also with the mid pipe that fits where the cat would have been bolts up perfectly with a stock flange gasket. I like that better than the ball flange on the iron manifold. Passenger side is the tightest due to offset. Made a minor notch to give clearance on one tube
Yeah mine is the KRC power steering, routed to Hydroboost brakes and the crown vic non variable rack. Ha Ha funny you mentioned the compressor I am ordering their Sanden setup with their Sanden bracket tomorrow. I just spoke with them this week asking if it will work with factory belt setup. They said they had never tried it but others had told them it worked perfectly with the factory AC belt.
Did you ever install your Sanden compressor and bracket from PBH?
Any Idea what truck that transfer case came out of? We was doing the same thing following your build and our new 17 f250 manual transfer case will not work with our 6R80 out of a 2015 f150. Splines are different and ours is visually much shorter when comparing our 17 SD transfer case to your picture.
Any Idea what truck that transfer case came out of? We was doing the same thing following your build and our new 17 f250 manual transfer case will not work with our 6R80 out of a 2015 f150. Splines are different and ours is visually much shorter when comparing our 17 SD transfer case to your picture.
Any help or ideas would be very much appreciated!
I can't imagine how the splines could be different. The below picture is from a Ford service tech at Chapman Ford in Scottsdale Az. He has mated a 2016 6R100 from a 2016 F250 6.2L Gas engine to an F150 Transfercase. I asked if he could confirm wether or not the bolt pattern and input splines were compatible before I purchased my Transfercase. The 6R100 was for the 6.2L Gas engine in the F250's before Godzilla. Ford didn't make a special bolt pattern for the 6R100 transmission nor transfercase just for this gas engine as that is not cost effective.
Running driving truck in the video's below, 4x4 engaged
Any Idea what truck that transfer case came out of? We was doing the same thing following your build and our new 17 f250 manual transfer case will not work with our 6R80 out of a 2015 f150. Splines are different and ours is visually much shorter when comparing our 17 SD transfer case to your picture.
11-27-2023 | 09:54 AM
