Steering wanders, and the radius arm bushings look shot. So I am planning my attack.

I have a couple questions. First, how? It looks like I need to unbolt the bushing end of the arm

from the mount (where the big rubber donuts are). And then that arm needs to move forward

about 4 inches so I can get at the second bushing to replace it. I have read on here

about a method for this that involves a come-along and leaving the big bolt under the spring, bolted up.

I don't see how that can work as even if the i-beam moved forward it would run into the other I-beam in one inch.

So it looks like I need to take apart the stuff at the yoke end of the radius arm. Is that right?

And second, I jacked up the drivers side wheel and pried and wiggled at it, and the only

movement I can find is about 1/16" up and down at the kingpin. Is that a problem or can I leave it go?

I am in the parts-ordering stage now. So, third, are NAPA's rubber radius arm bushings okay or are the urethane ones

that much better? I won't run any sport car rallies, but I do want to stay in one lane on the freeway.

And fourth, any other things likely need replacing while I am in there? Steering rods and couplings

pass the wiggle test. Shocks are already on my list. I don't know how to test the coil springs, but if

I'm told they probably need to go, then I will get new ones. This is a very heavy, "hard duty" truck.

Thank you for any help.

 

Sounds like you also need to check the play on your steering box.

 

I will do that. I started reading up on adjustment and replacement of steering box. Thank you smle

 

I have been through the steering issue with my truck, a '75. I found that I was not able to tighten the steering until I went through the entire system, kingpins, all tie rods, all bushings, and even the steering column. One tip: Don't waste money on a 'rebuilt' steering box. I R&R'ed two that were just as bad as the one I took out; except they didn't leak. I found out the hard way that 'rebuilt' means a spray clean and new seals. I finally paid the price and got a RedHead box, and that solved the issue for good. But even after replacing everything on the front end, I still had to rebuild the steering column. If the top or bottom bearing/bushing is shot in the column, then you get slop in the steering. Buy the best quality possible, and get a good strong light and check the frame around the steering box bolt holes. It is fairly common to have a cracked frame there. Good Luck.

 

If I ever have to change steering boxes, I'd spend the money and get either Blue Top or Red Top.

 

F-250 restorer is also correct in everything he said. Another thing adjusting the box does not usually work that well because everything is already wore out.