I had to cut that same corner off when I put the turbo in my 88, I think its more of a factory positioning thing, or for a holding fixture than actual reinforcement.
Same experience with the cab seam too. I tried leveraging it with a pipe, didn't really help much... For my 93 I did the slots when I was doing the tranny swap/turbo at the same time. Much easier to get in there without a transmission in the way, still need the slots to get it really flattened out, even with some good swing space and a decent hand sledge.
I ended up massaging the floorpan a bit to make the ZF6 fit in. As long as you have some clearance there it should be ok. Otherwise might buzz when things move around driving. Looks like you've had to redrill the shifter holes several times?

Good to see you getting it all back together.... again... hopefully the last time for a good while after all the work you've put in.

 

Yeah I noticed it had those ears on both sides and they didn't exactly look structural.

I didn't even think to tackle the firewall while the motor was out because I built my hotpipe to fit with the seam by ovaling it just a bit (nothing like factory stuff) or else I should have done it then.

Yeah I've got other projects I need to get to so I'm trying to wrap this one up.

Out of curiosity did you plumb in a cooler for your zf6?

 

So 83-91 idis have a removable pan for the trans tunnel, that you can swap depending on what trans you go with so everything lines up perfectly. Since my trans came from a 93 I couldn't get a floor pan because 92+ doesn't have one, they just have a hole like every other vehicle.

This is what I'm talking about needed top is t19, lower is zf5



Notice how the zf stays uniformly higher all the way back vs the t19 pan that dips lower after the shifter.

And as to the redrilled shifter holes, I added carpet and sometimes it's a pain to get the screws to hit the holes so I get fed up and just send em. I need to trim the carpet just a hair more so it's easier in the future.

 

Well it's done guys! Finished up the exhaust today and it's running/driving just fine for the most part. Trans has quite a bit of gear rollover even though I overfilled it with fluid. Reverse can be finicky at times but other than that everything is working just fine.

Ever since I did the turbo one flange leaked some, so when I had it apart I bolted that flange together first then welded in the piece needed and as far as I can tell I don't have any hot side leaks. Hit the tubro brake on the highway and it made 50psi of back pressure! Even though I upgraded to the comp 910 series I think I'll keep it under 35/30.

Thanks to anyone who followed along on this journey. Now I'm onto all the other things I've neglected on this work truck. Needs a good set of window glass and all the seals for the windows and doors, lots of little things to make it as quiet of s ride as my 89

I'm considering doing dynomat on the floor and firewall where I can reach because the motor is noisy and the trans is too. I'll be starting an extra thread for that.

 

Mebbe ive missed it, but what turbo / brake setup are you using? FYI, 40psi is safe on stock psd springs, and stock idi springs are stouter than those, you would be more than safe at 40, if not 50 with the 910s. Congrats on gettin 'er done.

 

6.0 powerstroke vgt turbo, I set the vein poison choked all the way down for the brake and it sure stops good!

 

That’s great she’s back flyin down the road! Rowing through the zf5 with that vgt just sounds like it would be so much fun lol

 

Maybe you didn't understand what I was saying, ALL ZF5's are the same physical size (at least the big block ones, the small block bellhousings may be a bit smaller at that end...) It doesn't matter what year the trans came from, get a trans tunnel from any 88-91 ZF5 truck. I would be willing to bet one from a 460, or even the small block ZF5's would have the same trans tunnel, F250/350/F-Superduty. Honestly I didn't know that 92+ didn't have the trans tunnel that came off. Which is pretty dumb as I had the carpet back on mine doing the ZF6 swap, but maybe I just didn't notice it?
Unless I'm wrong, the changes from ZF5 S-42 to ZF5 S-47 were some internal upgrades to hold back a bit more torque. Something was done to the input bearing, and maybe the synchros? Oh, maybe a different gear ratio?

 

Yes, sorta... I cheated a bit and used the stock cooler in the radiator. Not sure if the radiator in the truck was the original (it was a copper/brass one when I got it) but it had the trans cooler in the lower section, with plugs over the connections. Had to replace it in the middle of our honeymoon, and coincidentally an Autozone or Advance (can't remember) in the next town from the campground we were heading to had a crap plastic one in stock that also had the trans cooler. Anyways.... that was all before I had gotten the chance to do the swap...

So I ordered a set of cooler lines from a '99 with a ZF6 and that fit quite nicely up until the radiator support where the bends were all off and the fittings were some metric crap I think? I believe I was able to just cut the ends off and either reflare them, or use a short section of rubber line to the ports at the bottom of the radiator.

I think the previous owner of the ZF6 had a temp probe in one of the PTO covers, but I've never bothered to hook it up. Haven't had any real issues with it in the past year, except missing a gear every now and then... The gate setup is kinda weird for the far left Reverse/Granny Low. Occasionally I get lost and try to start in 3rd (or 4th if rolling slightly) thinking I'm hitting 1st (or 2nd)

 

some Trannys used a counter weight on the tail shaft to deaden vibrations... I haven't seen that done in many years now either.

 

The whistle sure puts a smile on my face, I specifically waited to find the 03/early04 variant because of the ten blade vs thirteen blade of late04/07 or up to 10 in the Vans. But it's a pretty loud whistle. If you've got soft ears get the late04+ or an 03/early04 and a Duramax (same size wheel) shaft will fit but it's 13 blade.

It sure sounds quicker than it is, but it's unbelievable the torque down low when you tighten that housing down. I climbed a really steep hill in third the whole way to the top that generally when NA it didn't like it even in second and was a smoke show.

It'll be interesting to see if this turbo still cleans up all the fuel when I go to the 130cc pump....

I'm intercooled, over studded, all I'm missing at this point is more fuel...that and maybe some plain water injection for egts while towing.

I understand that, what I was getting at is I couldn't get a floor pan so I had to tweak mine to make it work because this was rather time pressing to get my work truck going since the trans swap was the last thing in my way..

If I come across a zf floor pan in the future I will grab it but I was glad that I could make the t19 pan work for now.

Also on the cooler, that's all the powerstrokes used was the auto cooler in the rad. I was just curious what you did. I'd like to add a cooler to the zf someday with an inline pump and a small rad under the truck, just have it on a switch for when I tow.

If I didn't have a transfer case I'm sure that would technically be possible. Maybe even still possible with how long the tailshaft is idk.

It's seriously a ridiculous amount of rollover. I'm going to check with companies that rebuild DMF and see if they can eliminate the slip parts of it and make it where it's tough and won't fail. I can get the flywheel redrilled for my valair clutch if I have to. It's just too damn loud.......I'm the type with not the best hearing and generally don't mind noises but this just gets on my nerve when I'm just crawling over rough ground in first and it's growling it's heart out with virtually no load....

I managed to fix the t19 I believe with a spacer/bushing under the front bearing retainer. Didn't bother installing it since I already had the zf and seems to be a real popular swap. I'm going to hang on to it for now. Not like it's worth anything, even though I still never found one in 5+ years of owning the truck. Car-part had some but they wanted 400+ for a four speed in unknown condition.

 

Sounds like you need to post a vid. If i couldve come up with a decent affordable way to control the vgt that is absolutely the way i wouldve went. Fact that i couldnt, the bizzare flanges, and theyre generally small size led me to the S362. Its no slouch, but i dont get any whistle Pretty sure i need to wastegate it.

 

There's a couple just videos of it on my turbo build thread, I do need to take some now that it's intercooled.

My vgt control is strictly manual via a ****, and a toggle switch for the brake, think of it as an adjustable turbo.

I was actually playing around with it and crusing highway speeds I can actually dial it in to achieve 1:1 boost and back pressure. Something that wasn't possible before, other than the intercooler the only thing that changed is the turbo outlet is 2.5" to 3" then 3" all the way to the intake, which has a 3" to 4" elbow welded to it. I think this made the biggest difference vs before where I had the banks hat with a 2" inlet...

This turbo isn't small by idi means, with the housing all the way open at WOT I'm lucky if I see 5psi of boost with a maxed 7.3 turbo pump.

The "bizzare" flanges were actually the easiest part, I just bought flanges and everything is easily taken apart and no gaskets to leak. I absolutely hate working with t3/t4 turbo flanges, the nuts are always in a bad spot, sometimes the studs break off. I'm much happier having an all v band setup!

So far I have no need to redo the hot side, but when I go to the 130 pump I may need to. I'd prefer to have the hot side combined in a 3" y and u pipe. Vs the 2.5 it currently is.

I'm also using the factory Y, I know it's commonly considered trash, but I don't see why, seems to flow just fine. If you look at the inside of it it really doesn't look restrictive.

I had hopes of doing a vgt controlled with an audrino, and at the time I ordered a bunch of stuff, but half of it never showed up and I never could get an answer why..

 

I didnt realize the 6.0 was standard v-band i guess. Still though, 58mm compressor and 66mm turbine arent large. My s362 with the small turbine is obviously a 62mm compressor, and 68mm turbine. The 6.0 turbo has a better trim imo, but further lends itself to being on the small side. The "adjustable A/R" does give some wiggle room, but that turbo is designed to make ~20psi on a 6.0L engine or roughly 350hp. From what i remember they can be pushed to around 400whp, but on the considerably smaller engine. When i was drowning in math trying to pick a turbo, i had decided that 110cc would push it hard, but it would work. At that time though i was planning on going 150cc in the future. I had looked at a he551ve, but decided it was going to be more work than it was worth. On top of all of that one has to bear in mind cylinder pressure, and too much boost too low on an engine susceptible to head gasket failure. Last but not least, the issues vgts have with actuators and / or sticking unison ring. At the end of the day i decided it wasnt worth the work to put on an undersized turbo just to have an exhaust brake. As far as controllers go, i was hoping to find something self adjusting. Preferably not electronic, something like an air cylinder, or even some kind of spring arrangement. Never found anything that worked acceptably except for electronic, and those were 1200-1500. Im not in anyway knocking anyone thats running one, quite simply i just decided it wasnt for me. Ive second guessed that decision more than once, part of that is one of the reasons ive not hooked up a drive pressure gauge because im not sure i will like what i find, but may very well explain why it doesnt want to keep pulling past 2700. Thats a lot of air to move throught a 68mm turbine and a .91 housing. The upside is i clear smoke by 1800 empty, i push 10+ free revving to 4k, lack of response isnt a problem i have.

 

easy enough to control them manually.. I've posted schematics for it before also DRV101 and a TPS using a VVV.

no need to write a program to do it Arduino but that is easy enough too. with the Arduino you could at least monitor position and pressures on a Display.