Ah see I didn't take that into consideration that your pump isn't maxed like mine, even pre intercooler egts were fine, except for grades, which we don't have many of here, but you probably do.

I know it's gotta be tight in that grill, but I think you'd be surprised what will fit with a little love. I couldn't find much information on intercooling a bullnose with a decent size intercooler...romel from Germany I think did his and he cut the rad support and moved it back about an inch,

I just took a bottle jack between mine and the ranch hand and tweaked it back about an inch, maybe an inch and a half. I still have at least around 2" fan to rad clearance. Plenty of room to get it on anyways. This let me fit the intercooler without even removing the hood latch brace.

There's decent clearance in there but the grill will either have to be trimmed, or make a custom grill, the ranch hand protects it so for now I'll go grilless and maybe next weekend start figuring something out.

Also, good news! It runs! And doesn't knock either! Oil pressure was great. But boy was it loping and white/gray smoking. The injector pump was 180 out. I usually time these by feel with a pick. But this time the pick I had wasnt small enough to feel if it was a dot or a y really and I thought I had it y to y but nope....I used a paint pen and marked both gears. I was able to slide my mirror down in there and find the y but looking at it real close.

So I yanked that off and retimed it. Also cleaned up the battery terminals and tomorrow I'm going to hang the intercooler, run the piping, and put the hood on. Then let it idle up to operating temp, burp the cooling system, hopefully everything goes alright. It got a bit warm with everything 180 out but I shut it off right before it hit 220. It would move under its own power too, all of probably fifty ponies at the wheels

More updates tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be done so I can clean out both trucks and get all my tools cleaned and organized into one rig. Then the 89 can to back to being the Sunday cruiser that has an available empty bed anytime I need it.

 

Got the intercooler mounted today, ran the charge pipes and clamped everything down. Also installed the fittings for the boost and back pressure.

The banks cdr block off plate for the intake made a nice place to install a boost fitting. Tomorrow I'll install the gauges, put the hood on, and put the bumper back on. Ended up having to take it off as it gave alot more room to mock things up and also due to clearances I had to put boots on the intercooler first then install it.

I tried to prime it so I could hear it run now that the pump isn't 180 out but the batteries started to get low before I could. So tomorrow I'll do the gauges, bumper and hood and then post back.

Every day I get closer, yet not close enough. Can't wait to test drive it.

Also tomorrow in the daylight I'll take some pictures for you guys of the intercooler and charge pipes. The engine bay is a bit clustered atm with wiring and all the turbo related stuff however. Definitely no show truck. It's my main work rig

 

I swear you should have used the piston return springs for a Faster Boost Response doing the spring Delete can rob at least 25 HP but all is not lost
you can still do the exhaust MOD

 

at first I said to myself .... WTF did he aim that elbow that way.... then I realized... Intercooler so I didn't bother to ask

 

God Speed my Friend....sucks to re-learn the 180 issue but it happens....

 

Personally I would have just made an adapter that would bolt to the intake but that is just me... not saying what you did will not work

I'm just kinda OCD

 

I've always just been lucky with diesels, I've only ever 180 outed gassers, and it was easy to tell because they'd generally bark and die. And as stated I usually have my real thin pick that you can feel for the Y

So yes I thought about this extensively, the best idea I had was a piece of sch40 5" pipe, have it lathed out to fit the 5 1/8" od of the intake, but here's the problem, you need the bolt through the center, so you could only have room for a 2" elbow in there if you wanted it to point down towards the intake for optimal flow. Sure you could just make a round hat and weld a 3" nipple on the side, but it wouldn't be as efficient, I figured do it once and j won't ever have to redo it again... I also thought of a plug that would expose an inner bolt so I cluld run a bigger elbow and leave the screen incase it ever did loosen up but that just seemed too complicated.

This ended up being the most cost effective even for the flow even though I couldn't do the welding myself. One day I'll get a tig welder with the adjustable pulse needed for cast aluminum.

This way I get a 3" to 4" elbow which will provide heaps of flow, and the center bridge in the intake where the bolt would generally go is milled out. I did leave the boss in there for the throttle bracket bolts though. Should flow real nice.

 

Also because I got the noisy variant of the 6.0 turbo, there is plenty of whistle to go around, as well as plenty of power added

But yes I've seen those, also check out this video I saw of a VW 1.6l idi turbo with some pump love

 

Hey I have a 96 VW Jetta and Man that 6 cylinder with twin turbo will flat out smoke stuff... I kid you not.... I hate it because of the maintenance.



TBH I would rather have the exhaust whistle than the damned turbos.

EDIT: I call the jetta Hitler my Rm8T calls it Jessie as in Jezebel from the Bible at least as I see it.but man it runs like a Raped Ape
I shut down them cars that sound like a chain saw even blown Vets away and I'm an old fart

 

Is that German engineering hard to work on? If you feel that way about your 96, don't ever buy an 06, or 16 for that matter.

I saw a picture of an Audi motor that has a timing chain a mile and a half long wrapped through all kinds of stuff. I just thought nope...not for me

 

yeah, I have no desire to own anything newer ... the Jetta is the newest thing we own.

anyway good job .. looks functional to me

 

Well got it all finished today, fired it up and it purred like a kitten. Exhaust doesn't haze anymore so I guess I did good on the injectors. Over all I was pretty darn pleased with it. No blow by that I could tell and that was before it was fully broken in. Just a few starts.

Took it out on the road to load it up and break it in. Thing is a darn rocket in third gear, guess the junk yard scynchro that came on the input shaft I got wasn't any good because it keeps popping out of fourth.....

So took it down the highway, all was well, spooled to 15 very nicely and egts were in the 800's at WOT, went ahead and dialed the turbo down a little tighter, it hit 20 psi and held with egts around 875-900, made it about two hundred feet and heard a real loud pop/poof.

Pulled over, popped the hood to see if one of my chinese intercool boots let go....nope.......uhhhh Houston we have a problem. Heard something hitting the ground, get down by the passenger tire and there's water pouring out of the block at the rear corner of the head.....

Welp, tow it back, yank the dark head off in the truck. All the studs came out but one that I rubber banded to a valve. This is what I found;








Look closely and you'll see the firing ring did blow out just as far as the gasket is now....

The piece of the headgasket that is missing is MIA, I couldn't find it, must be out on that highway somewhere...

Now, according to Justin at R&D boost wasn't what would overwhelm these studs, it's boost along with extra fuel that creates too much cylinder pressure that does. He told me a 90cc pump or less and I'm in the clear, anything about that and it wouldn't last..I just have a maxed 7.3 pump.

So, if I'm within the limits, I wanna know what gave? Bad gasket? Bad studs? Well out of curiosity I measured all my studs. Not sure if they're the same ones Justin used years ago in this thread, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-2.html

But they're both arp studs, these are the measurements I got from the studs I removed,


If theyre supposed to be the same as what he had it appears they've stretched quite a bit to say the least...even if they're different from batch to batch there's a good bit of differece between some of them....which leads me to either think 20psi is too much? Or these studs are defective....

Gonna call arp Monday and try to get some measurements from them and see if I can get to the bottom of this.

My old motor regularly held 15 on bolts, and hit 20 a few times as well, and these bolts were torqued to 80ft/lbs, where as the studs were torqued to 100ft/lbs. I'm not very impressed to say the least.....

Ohhh, and the motor didn't even hydrolock thankfully, the missing piece of gasket was so big it just pushed the water right out. So this motor is definitely still salvageable I think. I've just got to figure out how to keep the heads on.

Well it's beer time, thanks to any of you that have followed along, any input is appreciated.

Also tomorrow I'm gonna try and hunt down a straight edge as check the head, although I don't suspect it. It had oem 30 year old gaskets (ones that were revised/recalled) that showed no sign of failure even though it had a banks turbo on it, and judging by the pistons they weren't exactly easy on it.....

 

Aw Man that Bites

 

I'm tempted to order some mahle gaskets and new dowel pins and just regasket and try again, maybe stay at 15 or below on the boost

I didn't really want to go full hot rod, just wanted to see what it's capable of, and if I can push it I'd like to here or there just for the hell of it.

 

I sure wonder about the studs stretching... IF that is what happened ?

Could it be a result of Under Torque ?