My daughter-in-law's 2002 Mazda Tribute/Escape V6 with automatic transmission, 2WD. The car has been sitting for 3-6 months she says. My son and my DIL replaced the bad battery. It turns over now, but won't start. I told him to spray some starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts that way. Now with the starting fluid sprayed in the intake, the engine runs for a second and dies. He tried it three times and each time after spraying it will run for a second and die. So we know the starter is OK and there must be some fuel delivery problem (or other problem?). The fuel gauge shows about a half tank of gas. The car was running fine before it was parked. He checked for any trouble codes and the OBDII system shows no codes.

What can I tell him to try or test next? He's 2 1/2 hours away from me, BTW, so I'm trying to do this over the phone with him. He has just some basic tools and if I can get any ideas or procedures to pass on to him that would be great. Thank you to anyone who can help.

 

Gas that has turned to varnish come to my mind (or contaminated with water)..... might try siphoning out all the fuel that is possible, fill with fresh plus adding about 1/2 ounce of acetone per gallon to help clear things and increase burn rate of fuel........ Clogged fuel injectors, clogged fuel filter, fuel pump is dying is also what comes to my mind.......................

 

I'd avoid messing with the fuel in the tank for now. The odds of gasoline "going bad" in only 6 months is minuscule.

He first needs to determine if fuel pump runs during the 2-3 second initial priming cycle when the key is first turned from OFF to RUN. All this test takes is careful listening.

If the pump does not prime, then check the inertia switch for tripping and then it gets a bit more complicated.

If the pump is heard to be running during the priming cycle, that clears all the electrical stuff on that side of the fuel supply circuit and focus needs to shift to see if fuel is actually delivered under pressure to the rail and if so, if the injectors are operating.

 

Unless you are in California or one of the other states with blended fuel........ I can't even keep gasoline in my lawn mower fore more than 3 months in the summertime without adding acetone to it....and it literally turns to varnish..... but you are right, it really depends on the fuel composition as to if it's on the top or the bottom of the list of things to check!

 

He checked the fuse and the relay (by switching it with another relay of the same type) and also the inertia switch. All good. There was no humming noise when someone turned the key. We're assuming fuel pump in this case. He did not have access to a test light and DVOM device to verify if power was being delivered, but he checked the connections and they were not corroded. There was no trauma to anything, so without a test light and DVOM it is most probable that it is the fuel pump. I sent him a video which shows how to replace the fuel pump, which looks like it is not difficult to do for him. He's going to order a fuel pump from RockAuto and I'll report back here with the results.

 

That could be either a fortunate assumption or an expensive but wrong assumption due to not performing adequate diagnostics. Good luck.

 

Yes I agree with you. I did counsel him previously to diagnose first before replacing parts. Unfortunately I can't do it from a distance and he also lives quite a distance from where the car is parked (he was there yesterday/today). We are each about 2 1/2 hours away from the vehicle which is parked at his mother-in-law's home. There was some shadetree mechanic who checked out the car yesterday for a small fee which my DIL's mother paid, and that mechanic said it was the fuel pump that was bad, so that's part of the reason my son is just going to go with the fuel pump replacement after checking himself for the fuse, relay, inertia switch, and connections. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the mechanic tested to conclude the pump was bad. The mechanic wanted $100 labor to replace the pump and I don't think that job is worth $100. It's not a hard job: Remove seat and remove the plate. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect the harnesses and hoses and then turn the retaining ring loose with either the correct tool or a mallet and chisel. Pull out pump and reinstall in reverse order. I will encourage him to test for power to the unit before installing. When he comes back he can bring a DVOM and a test light with him before opening the package with the pump in it. At the very worst he only loses shipping to return the pump as long as he didn't install it, so that would only be about $9.

 

If it's easier for him, can he apply 12 volts to the pump itself to verify if it's dead? I know it doesn't confirm that power isn't getting to the pump through the relay and wiring, but wouldn't that at least diagnose a bad pump?

 

Because I pressed him to diagnose first before opening the package in which the new pump came, he tested for power to the pump. Affirmative there was power. He followed some DIY videos I sent him and replaced the fuel pump on his own. Car is running fine now! Although this is not too dificult of a job, this was the most complicated car repair he's ever done. We're really happy he was successful.

Thanks to both of you who made comments: @Beechkid and @projectSHO89

 

Good to hear that he got it fixed.

Being that I am stuck at home sick and I had a set of replacement speakers I tackled that little job.
I was a bit shocked that my Escape has more screws holding the cover on the door than my F350.

 

I know I’m jumping in late on this thread but FYI, yes, it’s totally fine to put direct battery power to the fuel pump as a means to check it - just be certain you’re on the right terminals.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. That's what I thought.

Ha!